here you go.. lets hear it lol...

[Mr Tiler]

ali ive had good sound advice and a lot of the helpful comments have been been from you mate... and it really has been taken on board. I do respect and and hate the fact that some of the guys on here have come to the conlucion that I am ignorant and the helpful advice has fallen on deaf ears.... cuz it really hasn't. you are the pros end of and I wouldn't think I know any better than any of you on here but some of you come across to me to feel that if you havnt been tiling for years and years you cant be any good. ive been learning tiling for not very long at all and that bathroom is a very good attempt and I know it has faults and I took about half an hour setting out and came to the conclusion there would be bigger cuts all around the room if I did it the way I did the window is slightly off centre but that was so I had nice big cuts around the whole room. the floor wasn't full tile and go from there lol. I centred the doorway as there was nothing else to go from and the cuts on the rite don't even matter as there is a vanity unit going in along the whole side of the bathroom. its not a tray that's in there mate its a bath and yeh I would of had to know the spec but we measured before tiling and the bath fits in nice I advised its better to take the tile straight off the bath but he was happy for me to go ahead and tile. I just trying to defend myself respectfully and don't want arguments. Neale is a sound bloke and it was absolutely brilliant to work with him its a shame I couldn't do more as I learned a hell of a lot just in those few days with him. and to end the post you are going to eat those words in about ten mins ali lol. cheers and thanks for the advice over the last few months. its sad that ive came across as such an ignorant so and so and if you met me im sure you would see im not. cheers

 

[Mr Tiler]

I know its supposed to be staggers but didn't want little cuts of hardi on the boards so did it this way.

 

[Mr Tiler]

ouch ! but fair, they are big jobs for your first try's cant you just stick to splasbacks and small floors until you get the skills i have only been doing it just a little under two years and i have only just started doing these type of jobs this year, Don't loose faith take aboard the advice you are being given and i am sure it will work out, take loads of time at home with cheap tiles practising your cuts always make sure they are tight, use the correct trowel to help with lippage and also practise your siliconing as this can spoil the whole job even if the tiles are perfect, also have i bit more respect for the other tilers on here as they will help you a great deal if you have the right attitude good luck Paul.

also take time on your setting out, even if it takes a couple of hours looks like on the floor you have said to yourself i am starting with a full tile on the left and that's that because there is a 30mm cut on the right

the thing is mate I do respect the guys on here and there advice is going to be the best I can get. i don't know where the sudden feeling of disrespect has come from i have taken on board so much good advice from these professional tillers but it seemed like since the thread i made about self employment i have just been attacked by a few of the members for simply asking about self employment... if i was to go out and start taking paid work that is exactly the work i would be looking for small conservatories kitchen splash backs ect. i practise as much as possible and am now in the middle of doing my own bathroom so that's more practise for me. cheers

 

[DHTiling]

I know its supposed to be staggers but didn't want little cuts of hardi on the boards so did it this way. View attachment 53156

Do you know why boards have to be staggered ?

 

[Mr Tiler]

im only guessing but looking at the pic now id say to stop a dip forming in the cross of the join mate?

 

[Gazzer]

:lurk5::lurk5::lurk5:

 

[Daveshadowman]

I know its supposed to be staggers but didn't want little cuts of hardi on the boards so did it this way. View attachment 53156

There could be trouble with this in the future

 

[DHTiling]

im only guessing but looking at the pic now id say to stop a dip forming in the cross of the join mate?

It helps with contraction / expansion and now that could crack at that section.

Cross-bonding has to be done for said issues.

 

[Gazzer]

I know its supposed to be staggers but didn't want little cuts of hardi on the boards so did it this way. View attachment 53156

Little cuts ?? Just the board in half...so half the boards !

 

[Mr Tiler]

It helps with contraction / expansion and now that could crack at that section.

Cross-bonding has to be done for said issues.

cheers dave I will make sure in the future its done correctly.

 

[Mr Tiler]

Little cuts ?? Just the board in half...so half the boards !

I don't follow Neale lol. if I would have moved the board on the rite up a foot and put the cut at the bottom end would that of been the rite way?

 

[Mr Tiler]

excuse the bad paint skills but would this of been ok? cheers

 

[Gazzer]

Yes....

 

[Colour Republic]

It helps with contraction / expansion and now that could crack at that section.

Cross-bonding has to be done for said issues.

Really??? In a round about way it could help with expansion contraction but that's not the reason for cross laying.

 

[DHTiling]

Really??? In a round about way it could help with expansion contraction but that's not the reason for cross laying.

Ok , plz do tell us all then.

 

[DHTiling]

So CR , you are saying that cross bonding has nowt to do with creating a stronger wall/ceiling or floor and from helping to prevent stress cracks if you stacked overboarding.

Plz do enlighten us.

 

[Colour Republic]

It's for strength. Any joint is a weak spot and by cross bonding you are reducing the length of weak joints. It's the same reason you cross bond plasterboard, the same when brick laying

 

[DHTiling]

It's for strength. Any joint is a weak spot and by cross bonding you are reducing the length of weak joints. It's the same reason you cross bond plasterboard, the same when brick laying

So like I said then , the joint can only be weaker for expansion if not cross bonded. ?

Yes or no ?

 

[Colour Republic]

So CR , you are saying that cross bonding has nowt to do with creating a stronger wall/ceiling or floor and from helping to prevent stress cracks if you stacked overboarding.

Plz do enlighten us.

No not at all see my reply above. But it is not to do with expansion/contraction as the primary reason. You could argue that you are reducing expansion contraction of the preceeding layer by cross bonding / stitching over it, but that is not the reason you do it.

 

[Colour Republic]

So like I said then , the joint can only be weaker for expansion if not cross bonded. ?

Yes or no ?

Yes it can be weaker but not the primary reason like you made it sound in your first post

 

[DHTiling]

No not at all see my reply above. But it is not to do with expansion/contraction as the primary reason. You could argue that you are reducing expansion contraction of the preceeding layer by cross bonding / stitching over it, but that is not the reason you do it.

You have 3 movements CR , deflection / expansion and contraction , so you have lost me.

Cross bonding can help with the 3 above but I never mentioned deflection as hardibacker does not deal with deflection , so again plz do say why. ?

 

[DHTiling]

Yes it can be weaker but not the primary reason like you made it sound in your first post

Lol. I typed and made no sound. I gave info on the floor boarding , if it was walls then I would have advised further.

 

[Colour Republic]

You are missing the point Dave it is to add strength to the joints. I'm not going to get in an arguement with you over it.

 

[DHTiling]

You are missing the point Dave it is to add strength to the joints. I'm not going to get in an arguement with you over it.

CR, I am not after any argument. In what way does it add strength.

I just need clarification plz.

 

[Qwerty]

I was on the understanding that it added strength as the long side of one board adjoined the joint of two boards next to it, spreading the load if you like. Less stress on 3 than on 4 also?