How would you do it ?

[Concept PHT]

Get a spirit level (y), centre the bubble at the estimated highest point of the room, measure with a rule the distance between the level and floor (x).

Then measure the length of the level. If your using a 1m level, then the floor runs out 1y=x.

In other words, if the floor ran for 3m and for every 1m there was a fall of 2mm, then the total fall would be 6mm. (3y=3x)

This is assuming that the floor ran off constantly with no dips in the middle.

Easier done than said

 

[Leatherface]

Kapitan
Could do - but can't be arsed. If it won't self level over heating then really can't be bothered. Have done this before - it's an absolute pain trying to spread adhesive over the mat ( Properly ) so as not to leave any air pockets and also leave a good surface to tile onto. Also too much risk damaging the cable.

Concept ???
Sounds a strange way - not knocking it though, if it works for you then fine.
Find my way easier.
Regards N

 

[kapitan]

you can tile directly over ufh! i use a heavy thickbed trowel and if the substrate is cement use a pourable sp adhesive, works a treat!!

 

[Leatherface]

Yes I know - have done that. Prefer not to, always like to self level. Had one job when I accidentaly nicked the mat with my trowel, cost me dear :icon8: . Always play safe since.

 

[Concept PHT]

The laser way is easiest, but a quick way to show the customer on the quote is the way I just said. Not as accurate as i previously mentioned.

 

[Leatherface]

The laser way is easiest, but a quick way to show the customer on the quote is the way I just said. Not as accurate as i previously mentioned.

OK

 

[M D HUGHES]

Hi Leather, ask if she'd like a step.

 

[Leatherface]

thanks - but have asked already - didn't want one.

Also with regards to Kapitans suggestions - they are not suitable for this application.
The room slopes downwards and away to either side from the Kitchen - big time.
The tiles are 600 x 400 x 22mm thick sandstone - to be laid in brick pattern.
For anyone that knows - these kind of tiles in brick fashion require the floor to be more or less level - any lack of level would have to be made up in adhesive anyhow - nasty job on this floor. You cannot follow the floor at the risk of stepping.
Self levelling or screeding the floor would have been the only way. But as I said - too much height diff to make up.

 

[kapitan]

tell her to put down a carpet!!!

 

[L & R CERAMICS]

well said kap,why would you want to lift a floor up that much anyway ,isnt there an allowed tollerance for uneven floors

 

[Leatherface]

well said kap,why would you want to lift a floor up that much anyway ,isnt there an allowed tollerance for uneven floors

If you read posts properly - I aint gonna level the floor to that height. Too much. She's gonna just have the kitchen done instead, not the sloping dining room.

 

[Concept PHT]

<watches in amusement>

 

[kapitan]

wotta about gluing tiles to her slippers so she thinks her floors tiled!! :wink_smile: (i need to stop drinkin)

 

[Dan]

That is the way I did it - she didn't want pencil marks all over her expensive wall paper - so laser level & staff.

Dan - it's obvious that by the time that the lowest point was levelled to meet highest, then heating mat, tiles ( 22 mm ) plus adhesive, they would have to take about 400mm off the door & alter the bottom frame & storm guard - The radiator & bleed valve at bottom end would be partially covered & all skirting boards would have to come off or disappear if left on. Also the stone fireplace hearth would disappear.

Sorry I missed this.

I don't get why, that if the floor is being levelled, there isn't enough space for a heating cable of 3mm?!?! Even if you left the small area that's the highest point, the other 90% of the floor can still afford the cable thickness, right?

Sounds to me, the raise all together is the problem, not the addition of underfloor heating.