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Discuss i like butt jointing tiles in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

sus

Hello chaps
thinking of re tiling my kitchen using some B & Q 600X600 (porcelain) which I have left over from a job lot I bought for about £5 per meter, any way I want to butt up the tiles i.e. no spacers (I don’t know the correct term) I have seen this done many times but on a few jobs I have seen floors butt jointed with a few cracked tiles. Can you suggest why this has happened and how I should go about this on plywood base going straight on to 600x300 porcelain? I am not taking up the old tiles I have some costly devimat underneath that I do not want to kill (unless you can suggest something else). Thanks in anticipation
sus
 
D

david campbell

ok then!
firstly this really isn't a great idea,ideally you should strip back everything thats alredy down and start again,then the idea of "butt jointing" will only cause you problems later on as i previously said if your going to lay the tiles on ply there will always be movement therefore using a flexible adhesive and a flexible grout is the only way you can guarentee the tiling work will last for many tears to come
 
G

Grace'sDad

Butt jointing should never be done on timber or any floor which is likely to expand and contract. In the UK thanks to out beautiful climate, even asphalt and concrete floors are likely to move enough to upset butt jointed tiles (given the right combination of events).

Butt jointed tiles are seen mainly in warmer, more stable climates.

Not a very good idea in my opinion, even if it does look good (at first).
 
S

sus

some one has re tiltled my post i think. it should have read "i like butt" anyway now thinking about it the butt jointed tiles i have seen are mostly on concrete, one was defo in wood floor but that is one of the ones with cracks. Secondly the flooring had new joists at 300mm centers, plywood 10mm + 18mm, then devimat then flexi adhisive (bal i cant remember whitch one) then 300x600 and i was intending to put the 600x600 on top with flexi (mapai) but now i will use spacers. I dare not take the old tiles off in case i break the UFH. I didnt mean i have seen loads of butt jointed tiles on wood substrate i mean i have seen lots of butt jointed tiles. i have them in my bathroom and they have been there for about 120 years
 
D

DHTiling

some one has re tiltled my post i think. it should have read "i like butt"anyway now thinking about it the butt jointed tiles i have seen are mostly on concrete, one was defo in wood floor but that is one of the ones with cracks. Secondly the flooring had new joists at 300mm centers, plywood 10mm + 18mm, then devimat then flexi adhisive (bal i cant remember whitch one) then 300x600 and i was intending to put the 600x600 on top with flexi (mapai) but now i will use spacers. I dare not take the old tiles off in case i break the UFH. I didnt mean i have seen loads of butt jointed tiles on wood substrate i mean i have seen lots of butt jointed tiles. i have them in my bathroom and they have been there for about 120 years

some one has re tiltled my post i think. it should have read "i like butt"

That was me..:).....not the best thread title to get peeps to view it..


i have them in my bathroom and they have been there for about 120 years


You will find that a very different fixing method was used and a concrete floor i gather..
 
S

sus

Sorry guys I have to disagree, I may not be a tiling god or even a full time tiller but these b&q tiles are pukka porcelain and they do them every now and again I saw them last in November in chocolate. I bought two pallets of these two years ago and I would put them up against any of the £80+ a meter Italian or porcelanosa ones I have bought since (for quality maybe not for design) they may not be as hard as the Chinese ones but all as straight as a die and floorless. May be you are talking about ceramic cheap ones.
 
S

sus

just thought. i always advise people to leave UFH on all the time and let the stat do its work. I have mine at home all the time. How long does it take for ufh to heat up? I do a lot of wet UFH and once had about 120mm of screed on top of the 70mm i put down and from cold took a good 10 hours before you could feel it bit i put i down to freezing cold house and first time start up. Do you guys advise timed (ON OFF) UFH i usually use a programmable room stat and never had any problems.....
 
U

Uheat

although not covering wet ufh. i think you might need to come on the UFH course i am running on the 18th March.

With Water UFH you are heating the screed and it is acting like a storage heater will take forever to warmup and will slowly realease the heat. Most people will 'charge' up at night if on economy 7 and trickle feed during the day.

From what you have said above you have had no Insulation in the floor what so ever, so no wonder it is taking forever to heat.

You should always use an insulation product under the heating to stop height loss downwards. Next time you do a floor like this give me a shout as you could use our 'inscreed' cable on top of our Ekoboards.

www.uheat.co.uk
 
S

sus

We cannot be taking about the same stuff. They turn up in b & q every now and again like I said last time I saw these ones was is November and was thinking of stocking them again cos I was so happy with them. 600x600 in a black box from Portugal micro bevel. I don’t buy my tiles from B&Q on the whole... I don’t buy from b&q on the whole, though I am a share holder and just spent about 3k in trade depot clearance and I am not snobby about where I buy stuff from if its good, its good and I do always look around and am always going shopping with customers and a lot of the time they show me the bargains. In the b&q case it was a pro tiller who pointed me to them and told me all the tillers know about these tiles but they go in a few hours. Have you a problem with these specific tiles or are you just slating b&q tiles.
 

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