Is Plywood ok for a partition wall?

[Ronski]

platsterboard = £8.98 for 2400x1200.
wedi = £32.99 = 2500x600.

Remind me not get plasterboard from wherever you do :shocked3: , last time I got some from Jewsons it was just under a fiver, and it's only £6.67 at Wicke's.

But personally, whilst the room is stripped out i would backer board it out, then no probs..

The room i am doing next week the customer had the same oppurtunity, BUT plastered the walls instead.....now i am fixing nearly 50 backerboards..stuck and mechanicaly fixed as well.....reminds me..need a new drill..:smilewinkgrin:

Exactly why I left this room without any plasterboard until now, as I wasn't sure what to do the walls in.

hardie backer type board for me, taped (waterproofing) in the wet areas:hurray:

I think to be on the safe side I will use Aquapanel not only due to the as yet unknown weight of the tiles, but also it's unaffected by moisture. Wickes are cheaper than Jewsons and I have a 10% off voucher, that will shave £20 off the cost.

Reading the Knauf instructions, there's two ways to install this stuff.

1. To leave a 3mm gap between joints and then fill with flexible adhesive and tape
2. Use the Knauf adhesive mastic and then butt joint them, scrapping off the excess when set.

Seeing as the second way implies it's stronger and Wickes sells the adhesive, I'll think I will do it this way, unless there's any reason to do it the other way.

 

[dagger]

Remind me not get plasterboard from wherever you do :shocked3: , last time I got some from Jewsons it was just under a fiver, and it's only £6.67 at Wicke's.



Exactly why I left this room without any plasterboard until now, as I wasn't sure what to do the walls in.



I think to be on the safe side I will use Aquapanel not only due to the as yet unknown weight of the tiles, but also it's unaffected by moisture. Wickes are cheaper than Jewsons and I have a 10% off voucher, that will shave £20 off the cost.

Reading the Knauf instructions, there's two ways to install this stuff.

1. To leave a 3mm gap between joints and then fill with flexible adhesive and tape
2. Use the Knauf adhesive mastic and then butt joint them, scrapping off the excess when set.

Seeing as the second way implies it's stronger and Wickes sells the adhesive, I'll think I will do it this way, unless there's any reason to do it the other way.

you need chamfered edge not square edge, which is cheaper!
but i was quoting from the last time i went to b and q.

square edge is for plastering, and chamfered edge is for tape and jointing. but you knew that right!

 

[Ronski]

you need chamfered edge not square edge, which is cheaper!
but i was quoting from the last time i went to b and q.

square edge is for plastering, and chamfered edge is for tape and jointing. but you knew that right!

I did, but I've always had it plastered so have not bought tapered edge recently, last time was when I first started out in the mid nineties, and I think it was less than £3 a sheet then.

 

[dagger]

well it would appear to me with all the posts added you have all the information you need!

best of luck!

Dagger.

 

[Ronski]

well it would appear to me with all the posts added you have all the information you need!

best of luck!

Dagger.

I appear to have upset/offended you, if so I'm sorry, it was not intended :sorry:

 

[doug boardley]

give and take advice in a friendly way guys please:8:

 

[dagger]

offended, me, never!

your studding looks perfect, chamfered edge plasterboard, taped and jointed with plasterboard adhesive, providing your tiles and adhesive are less than 32kg.(tanking wet areas of course!)

otherwise,

Wedi board, marmox, knauf, no more ply, hardibacker, or wicks waterproof board!

but remember, even though the boards are more stable you still need to sort the joins in the boards out!

good luck..

dagger!

 

[Ronski]

offended, me, never!

your studding looks perfect, chamfered edge plasterboard, taped and jointed with plasterboard adhesive, providing your tiles and adhesive are less than 32kg.(tanking wet areas of course!)

otherwise,

Wedi board, marmox, knauf, no more ply, hardibacker, or wicks waterproof board!

but remember, even though the boards are more stable you still need to sort the joins in the boards out!

good luck..

dagger!

Thanks for the compliment, I try to learn what I can and do my best.

What do you mean by sort the joins in the boards out?

Using plasterboard would save quite a lot of money, what is involved with tanking?

And I presume it would only need tanking in the shower and around the bath area?

PS. The Wickes board is Knauf Aquapanel.

 

[dagger]

you still need to tape and join backerboards, the boards are waterproof but the joins are a weakspot!, so you will need to put skrim tape over the joins and screed with a flexable adhesive!

tanking in you situ is easy, paint on so to speak!

2 coats, one coat left to right , second coat top to bottom!

 

[dagger]

I do wet rooms quite often so:

this is a wedi board (tilebacker) room and i am taping the joins with wedi tape and tanking paint!

and a bit later, but you see what i mean about the joins in the boards!

 

[dagger]

finished job:

 

[Ronski]

According to the large commercial instructions, when using the Knauf Aquapanel joint adhesive there's no mention of using scrim tape, these instructions also imply that it stronger, as you can use 600mm centres on the battens, where as the domestic/small commercial instructions state using 400mm centres and the scrim tape, with flexible adhesive.

This information is on the Knauf website Knauf Drywall - Aquapanel - Drywall for Wet Areas

Now the only problem I have is deciding which way to go as some posters say use plasterboard and tank, and others say use a backer board.

Edit: Very nice looking job Dagger, and I spy a laser level, wonderful inventions them.

 

[doug boardley]

Ronski, it depends on the weight of your tiles, as to what substrate to use, cement boards will bear more load than plasterboard

 

[dagger]

if your tiles are less than 32kg including adhesive you can use both, if more use tilebacker.

that said i have NEVER known anyone to not reccommend sealing the joins in any board aquapanel or other!

grout is water replellant, so water goes into the grout, and dries out through the grout (hence the change in colour), if you are not suitabliy "tanked" the water in the grout can "ebb" into the wall, if where it ebbs is on a join you have a failure!

just my opinion, but i am pretty sure of myself..

 

[jay]

im with dagger on this one :8: