Is this a silly question?

[Jon329]

I'm probably asking a really silly question but here's my problem.

I've tiled a few rooms before and the way I start is to screw a piece of wood into the wall low down where the second row of tiles will start I make sure this is level with a spirit level so I have a straight and level foundation to start on and then when I've tiled the entire room I take the wood away and cut the lower tiles to fit. I don't like the idea of starting at the bottom as it will be difficult to ensure its level.

Now my method doesnt lend itself to a wetroom where I've tanked the wall as I don't want to compromise the seal by drilling holes for rawl plugs!. Where would you professionals begin?

Walls covered in ardex WPC, tiles are 300x600 porcelain. I have a laser level to assist

Thanks!

 

[widler]

With that I’d cut the bottom row in and just tile from floor .
But if you do put battens on, when you take off fill the hole with Silicon , or just patch it up with tape and paste, it’s exactly the same as covering screwheads or around pipes

 

[Mark W Smith]

As wilder says, nothing wrong with doing it either way as long as your tiles are level...I do use laths...not on commercial work as I mark a datum line after using a laser level.....but in bathrooms or wet rooms most of the time I do as I find it works fine in smaller areas.....then drop the bottom course in last ......just double check your first course you fix on top of your wooden lath as you may need to just tweet with some wedges as a wooden lath is never perfect.....if your walls are perfect and your adhesive is has an extremely good non slip properties the use a datum line & work down but I can’t remember the last time I tiled a straight wall or floor for that matter....good luck

 

[Flintstone]

Personally I always cut the bottom row in and work off it, not used battons for a long time, but whatever works for you is ok, fill the holes if you make any.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

You could always gauge down from your datum line and set up your laser level at that mark ,thus cutting your bottom row first then work up & if you want to you could always check with a level just to air on the side of caution

 

[Jon329]

Thanks for the replies, I've cut the bottom ones and they seem to be pretty level when using the laser level so sure it will be fine, I'll stick them on tomorrow and find out!

Thanks again!

 

[GoneGuy]

Or you could use baton stands along with your straight edge to tile off,

 

[widler]

Or you could use baton stands along with your straight edge to tile off,

baton rands any good adey ?

 

[GoneGuy]

baton rands any good adey ?

Yes I got two sets of rubi ones, I use old spirit levels on them

 

[Qwerty]

^^ Me too

 

[Dumbo]

I have one set

 

[Albert]

I have two sets, one large and one small

 

[J Sid]

never had the need for them so I have none

 

[Dumbo]

Got to admit I seldom use mine these days due to the tiles I am fixing . Generally tiling up from the floor .

 

[WetSaw]

I usually set a datum line with the laser and tile from the floor. By the time I've got to the "staring at the wall from sitting on the bog" height I've generally managed to get it reasonably straight.