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Discuss Is this cheap Vitrex Tile saw any good? in the Tiling Tools area at TilersForums.com.

W

wau5

Well I tried to use my newly bought saw... Quick review- UTTER GARBAGE Cheap Chinese Pokemon Toy!

-This thing should NOT be sold, why are they even wasting earths resources making such thing.
-weighs nothing, so it slides around and you can't cut anything with it, there's no holes/no way to fix it to a table or screw it down, had to pile tiles around it to keep it in position
-the ''fence'' is laughable, it bends /twists like crazy , there's no real precise way for it to be adjusted at 90degree angle
-It DOES NOT cuts straight, due to bad fence as it twists and makes the cuts uneven.
-the guard is too large so you can't see anything under it and it's a trouble to even cut in freehand.
-Water god damn everywhere...you need to wear a wetsuit ( Ok This is wetsaw and I might forgive it that, but still the bad guard soaks you wet with a fine mist directed at you.)
-I have done about 25-30 cuts so far (just on scrap tiles on practice), I'm yet to cut a tile where it doesnt tears out huge chunk at the end, Not a single tile I was able to cut without chipping it at end badly.
-already got bleeding arm from a flying shard from this utter garbage.
-the size of this thing is laughable,its suited to cut MAYBE 20x20cm tiles, for anything rest..good luck!
-the base/table of it is also pretty terrible
-the on/off switch is in weird place so if you would need to switch it off asap at one moment- you wouldn't be able to find where the switch is.

I really don't think I have one single positive thing to say about this junk, ok maybe you could take its motor/ make new base for it/make new fence, add some bulk to it and clamp it down to a table and now you might have an ok'ish saw.

OKSSirM.jpg
 
B

Bill

Well I tried to use my newly bought saw... Quick review- UTTER GARBAGE Cheap Chinese Pokemon Toy!

-This thing should NOT be sold, why are they even wasting earths resources making such thing.
-weighs nothing, so it slides around and you can't cut anything with it, there's no holes/no way to fix it to a table or screw it down, had to pile tiles around it to keep it in position
-the ''fence'' is laughable, it bends /twists like crazy , there's no real precise way for it to be adjusted at 90degree angle
-It DOES NOT cuts straight, due to bad fence as it twists and makes the cuts uneven.
-the guard is too large so you can't see anything under it and it's a trouble to even cut in freehand.
-Water god damn everywhere...you need to wear a wetsuit ( Ok This is wetsaw and I might forgive it that, but still the bad guard soaks you wet with a fine mist directed at you.)
-I have done about 25-30 cuts so far (just on scrap tiles on practice), I'm yet to cut a tile where it doesnt tears out huge chunk at the end, Not a single tile I was able to cut without chipping it at end badly.
-already got bleeding arm from a flying shard from this utter garbage.
-the size of this thing is laughable,its suited to cut MAYBE 20x20cm tiles, for anything rest..good luck!
-the base/table of it is also pretty terrible
-the on/off switch is in weird place so if you would need to switch it off asap at one moment- you wouldn't be able to find where the switch is.

I really don't think I have one single positive thing to say about this junk, ok maybe you could take its motor/ make new base for it/make new fence, add some bulk to it and clamp it down to a table and now you might have an ok'ish saw.

OKSSirM.jpg
User error.

Mine cuts straight, the blade guard is fine, I don't get wet when I use one.

Now if you had asked me earlier how I use mine then you wouldn't be in a pickle like you are now.
 
495
1,118
Somerset
Some advice on wet saws.
1. Give yourself every opportunity to get good results - spend out on a high quality diamond blade.
2. Make sure there is always plenty of water feeding onto the blade - insufficient water makes the blade jam.
3. Don't force the cut, allow the blade to move at its own pace, if the saw moves as you cut you might be forcing it too much.
4. Keep the cutter at table height - use a workbench to stand it on. If it moves too much, clamp wood behind to stop movement. It's called a "table saw" for a reason!
5. Most of us only ever use a wet saw outdoors, or if used indoors, put a container under the table to catch the water and often a tarpaulin to stop the floor getting too wet. Some saws are better than others at preventing splash back.
6. Blade guards are often annoying. The better quality cutters are better, but not perfect. Practice is the key.
7. I don't find straight cutting guides helpful. Try practicing getting your line of sight (line of blade matching cut line) right.
8. Water tends to wash away pencil marks. Try scoring cut with manual cutter, then gently running pencil or felt tip pen along line to highlight cut.
9. Tiling is messy work. Wear old clothes that you expect to get wet and covered in cement.
10. There is a saying that it takes 10,000 hours experience to become skilled at something. If you are doing this as Diy, expect lots of frustrations, but persevere and be proud of what you achieve. But if everyone could achieve our standards of tiling after a few hours - we would quickly be out of work!
 
W

wau5

Some advice on wet saws.
1. Give yourself every opportunity to get good results - spend out on a high quality diamond blade.
2. Make sure there is always plenty of water feeding onto the blade - insufficient water makes the blade jam.
3. Don't force the cut, allow the blade to move at its own pace, if the saw moves as you cut you might be forcing it too much.
4. Keep the cutter at table height - use a workbench to stand it on. If it moves too much, clamp wood behind to stop movement. It's called a "table saw" for a reason!
5. Most of us only ever use a wet saw outdoors, or if used indoors, put a container under the table to catch the water and often a tarpaulin to stop the floor getting too wet. Some saws are better than others at preventing splash back.
6. Blade guards are often annoying. The better quality cutters are better, but not perfect. Practice is the key.
7. I don't find straight cutting guides helpful. Try practicing getting your line of sight (line of blade matching cut line) right.
8. Water tends to wash away pencil marks. Try scoring cut with manual cutter, then gently running pencil or felt tip pen along line to highlight cut.
9. Tiling is messy work. Wear old clothes that you expect to get wet and covered in cement.
10. There is a saying that it takes 10,000 hours experience to become skilled at something. If you are doing this as Diy, expect lots of frustrations, but persevere and be proud of what you achieve. But if everyone could achieve our standards of tiling after a few hours - we would quickly be out of work!

thanks, I have used it more and have got used to it more as well, and I can cut out the stuff that I need with it now ( but mostly doing it freehand) . However... It's not able to cut a tile fully without making a large chip at the end of the cut for just simple straight cuts, not sure why, but it's just not able to do that however slow you go. So really this tool only served its purpose of cutting out squares/other shapes in tiles (the task I bought it for really).

I would still rate it as total crap even after using it for some time.
 
495
1,118
Somerset
Large chip at the end - turn the tile and do a short cut at the other end (20 mm is fine) then cut in your original direction - the blade won't cause a large chip to break off the end corner. You will likely have a small obstruction where the two cuts meet - gently rub this spot to flatten edge, using either a tile file and silicon carbide paper, or even carefully using the flat edge of the cutting blade.
 
W

wau5

Large chip at the end - turn the tile and do a short cut at the other end (20 mm is fine) then cut in your original direction - the blade won't cause a large chip to break off the end corner. You will likely have a small obstruction where the two cuts meet - gently rub this spot to flatten edge, using either a tile file and silicon carbide paper, or even carefully using the flat edge of the cutting blade.
Brilliant, thanks Andy for the good tip, that should solve the problem for sure.
 
W

wau5

Large chip at the end - turn the tile and do a short cut at the other end (20 mm is fine) then cut in your original direction - the blade won't cause a large chip to break off the end corner. You will likely have a small obstruction where the two cuts meet - gently rub this spot to flatten edge, using either a tile file and silicon carbide paper, or even carefully using the flat edge of the cutting blade.

I can report that this stuff indeed works and Now I'm able to cut full tiles without a huge tearout in the end ( ok there's a very small tearout, however it's very rare and you can just file it off).
Pretty good, now I have to botch this thing up and make a larger (much much larger) table/fence for it and it should be rather decent tool for not much $.
Thanks Andy :)
 

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