Laying calibrated sandstone floor - advice please!

[SJRuss]

Sorry - didn't mean to bring up costs! Will bear what you've said in mind though.

I think I'm likely to try and get it laid myself - that in mind, I would say the way forward would be for me to get the level bought up with a screed, so that a least then I'm only laying a calibrated slab onto a level uniform bed of s/c. And I say 'only laying' and 'at least' with the greatest of respect for you guys of course! Thinking about the job - I suddenly can't breathe too well!

Previous posts suggest laying into wet-bed with a spf? What does that stand for - an adhesive? Why would I need to do that? Too seal the slab to stop colour of cement penetrating? :dizzy2:

By the way - these slabs are 25-30mm EXTERNAL slabs with a riven surface - not actually internal sandstone tiles as such - just for your reference!

 

[Perry]

spf single part flexible adhesive it helps it stick like s**t to a blanket but if you are screeding it first it i would still back butter the tiles with adhesive will help getting a solid bed

 

[SJRuss]

Thanks for the post.

I have to admit to being a little confused now. If I screed to bring the level up, it'll only be in the area that actually needs bringing up - so I'd have 2 different surfaces on which to lay the stone - concrete and screed finish.

Regardless of the surface - I'll still have to bed them down on wet s/c as they are heavy external slabs surely? Are you suggesting that I also butter the back of the slabs as well with spf too?

Argh! :smilewinkgrin:

 

[Aston]

whats the difference of floor depth at the highest point of the floor mate??

you say theres a 2 inch difference at the lowest point but whats the approx depth of the highest?? if its only a few mill then that rules out doing a sand and cement screed.

the most cost effective way to tile the floor would be to wet fix the slabs as above, but the term wet fix doesent actually mean its a very wet mix ie like mortar, its a firmer mix and the use of spf adhesive is the give the slabs extra bond when it makes contact with the sand and cement..

my honest advice would be to get a tiler to give you a price to do the job, i am sure theres plenty on here who are local to you, if you are from the merseyside area , then i'd be happy to come and see you :0) .as i said above, its a difficult first task and it might be the wisest thing you could do in the long term...

 

[Ken Bruty]

Yoiks:yikes: £15/m2, BE VERY CAREFUL!!

 

[SJRuss]

I'll take that into account mate.

He's a guy from work who did an intensive tiling course in England somewhere - in fairness I think his work is excellent - but I'm unsure as to how confident he will be in laying these.

At it's highest point, the floor will result in a bed of around the 3" mark?

I'll throw the job out to tender then maybe?!

 

[Perry]

Russ is this uncalibrated

 

[SJRuss]

pjc - it's calibrated fella. 25mm.

 

[wetdec]

Sorry - didn't mean to bring up costs! Will bear what you've said in mind though.

I think I'm likely to try and get it laid myself -

15 per m2 needs more than bearing in mind m8 sandstone is a beech on a good day as its surface doesnt release as easily as a limestone say.


Do it your self......... providing you get the floor leveled then you will probably do a more caring job than Mr 15bucks but will take you longer for sure.

The trick is go easy, prep for you is essential, get the stone in the dry and out of the crate, lean them against a wall to dry. You wont have room to lean 600 seperately so lean them against each other and put a screw between them at the top this will let the air circulate. As you put them to dry get a stiff brush and rub off any loose sand.

I am assuming you are going to use a sealer on them (dangerous not to) and that it will incorporate an intensifier. 2 days before you begin pick out 10/15m of the dry ones brush again and seal puting them to dry flat this time in your working area, as you use some then replace with new leaving to dry.

When they are fixed seal again before grouting.