Levelling a wall - any help please! [pics]

[kent tiler]

then two coat skim it then next you cant tile on too finish

 

[White Room]

If you pva the wall it will only take about 20 kg

 

[Kasheen]

Wow!

Can't believe the amount of replies. Ok so it seems most are suggesting just to build up a skim layer of tile adhesive. I see that alot of people rate BAL products, can anyone suggest one of their bagged products that is easy to use and has decent mileage (covering 1.5msq with addy is more expensive than using plaster). Russ has suggested rapidset, will this go off too quickly for a beginner taking their time?

Also is there anywhere that sells BAL on the cheap, Topps seem to want £26.99 (not bad considering the unibond cost the same) for grey and £36 for white (can I go with grey even though I'm going to use white grout?). The flexible stuff costs even more at £45.99 (do I need this, the wall is going to be around a rolltop bath, shouldn't be too wet since it's not a built in bath).

So any help on which adhesive would be great, then hopefully I'm onwards to success

 

[macten]

yes skim with addy ,and use your wood as a rule to take off excess

Fnarr Fnarr!!

 

[macten]

Use rapid set and mix it quite thick, if you're anything like me I get impatient and try to put too much on and it can slump.
Try to source the cheapest rapid set (usually grey) when skimming walls or it could cost you a small fortune. BAL is good but BAL is dear.

 

[Kasheen]

Use rapid set and mix it quite thick, if you're anything like me I get impatient and try to put too much on and it can slump.
Try to source the cheapest rapid set (usually grey) when skimming walls or it could cost you a small fortune. BAL is good but BAL is dear.

Can I also use the grey to apply the tiles, should I buy the biggest bag possible? I've also got a further 3msq of tiling to go after this small 1.5msq section of wall, so I think I may have to buy a big bag and a smaller bag but I'll just buy as I go I guess.

 

[macten]

You can use grey but you will have to work very clean, particularly with the grout joints.

 

[Kasheen]

You can use grey but you will have to work very clean, particularly with the grout joints.

Yeah it was the grout joints that I'm worried about. With the white unibond stuff I'm using any of it that is coming out I'm not so bothered because I know the grout is going to be white so it'll definitely just merge in.

I may buy a small bag of grey to skim and a big bag of white to finish the rest of the walls in that case.

 

[Bolter]

Yeah it was the grout joints that I'm worried about. With the white unibond stuff I'm using any of it that is coming out I'm not so bothered because I know the grout is going to be white so it'll definitely just merge in.

I may buy a small bag of grey to skim and a big bag of white to finish the rest of the walls in that case.

The Unibond can merge with the bin!

Also dont try to "pack out" with ready mixed stuff. In fact, if you are "packing out", your wall/floor is not flat enough.

 

[cuttintiles]

Dont use timber as a guide, use a straight edge or level!!!

i must admit i am surprised that as your dip is 10mm or less no one has suggested that you use a floor trowel (20x10mm round notch) and serrate the wall and the tile,
if you do this once your first course is on the wall you can use a long level and push the tiles flat!

therefore no need to "plaster" the wall with adhesive!

both ways will work but, as your dip is 10mm and less, i would use a good quality flexi and follow my tip!

 

[Ceramico tiling]

I suppose a feather edge would be ideal although a straight timber is better than getting adhesive all over my level.When I find there is a gap(filled with adhesive)btw tiles and wall(around 10mm) they all move differently as the adhesive dries which leaves you with lippage that drives me mad personally:mad2:.So i find it better to maintain a minimal consistent gap by plastering the dips first and allowing them to dry.

 

[cuttintiles]

i know what you mean about getting adhesive on the level,
but as for shrinkage not true, keraflex maxi provided mixed correctly will handle 15mm (according to mapei's little black book) not to mention i have done it personally, so not just quoting stats!

 

[Ceramico tiling]

Well kerraquick maxi is one I will definatelly pay more attention to because that would be cool.But I am certain the more the gap of adhesive behind the tiles the more they move by themselves as they dry with most other adhesives anyway.And i doubt this guy is using kerraquick maxi!.I would be interested in some other opinions on adhesive shrinkage?.,

 

[Bolter]

Well kerraquick maxi is one I will definatelly pay more attention to because that would be cool.But I am certain the more the gap of adhesive behind the tiles the more they move by themselves as they dry with most other adhesives anyway.And i doubt this guy is using kerraquick maxi!.I would be interested in some other opinions on adhesive shrinkage?.,

if using tubbed ready mix stuff yes there is shrinkage. But you should NOT be packing out with that.

I dont know any powdered adhesives that shrink badly.

 

[Scott]

Dont use timber as a guide, use a straight edge or level!!!

i must admit i am surprised that as your dip is 10mm or less no one has suggested that you use a floor trowel (20x10mm round notch) and serrate the wall and the tile,
if you do this once your first course is on the wall you can use a long level and push the tiles flat!

therefore no need to "plaster" the wall with adhesive!

both ways will work but, as your dip is 10mm and less, i would use a good quality flexi and follow my tip!

A deeper notch trowel was suggested in the first reply