Limestone tiling over a dry sand and cement screed with UFH

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Ajax123;76 but a tad petulant as well[/QUOTE said:
Not petulant Alan, just dont like being told i have been lucky after all my years in the tiling trade (44 andy allen) lol now two tech people have said you dont need to use mats, (are they wrong )get a grip man
 
Well guys enjoying the responses. Am only tiling 6 years so am always try to suck in info. I don't want to be 'caught out' hence the request. I then decided to ring BAL technical guru. ( as I am in Ireland so don't know if British standards a applicable in an irish court!). The guru gave these instructions: sand & cement screed must be down for 3 weeks, then commission UFH by raising in daily by 5 dgs to the desired operating temp, leave it at this temp for 7 days, then go back down 5 dgs per day until off, once off leave for 3 days. Begin tiling using Stone and tile thickbed flexible adhesive NO UNCOUPLING MAT REQUIRED. Once finished tiling do not turn on heating for 28 days. Then turn on 5 dgs per day until desired temp reached. Then use UFH as desired. What do you reckon guys, am meeting client tomorrow!
well emmettcraik i would tend to go along with the bal tech man,bal have been making adhesives for many many years and i believe its a name to be trusted ,you have now heard it from the people that make the stuff so you wont go far wrong
 
Well guys enjoying the responses. Am only tiling 6 years so am always try to suck in info. I don't want to be 'caught out' hence the request. I then decided to ring BAL technical guru. ( as I am in Ireland so don't know if British standards a applicable in an irish court!). The guru gave these instructions: sand & cement screed must be down for 3 weeks, then commission UFH by raising in daily by 5 dgs to the desired operating temp, leave it at this temp for 7 days, then go back down 5 dgs per day until off, once off leave for 3 days. Begin tiling using Stone and tile thickbed flexible adhesive NO UNCOUPLING MAT REQUIRED. Once finished tiling do not turn on heating for 28 days. Then turn on 5 dgs per day until desired temp reached. Then use UFH as desired. What do you reckon guys, am meeting client tomorrow!

I'd make sure I had it in writing from said Bal guru!
I doubt if anyone is that fussed anymore, everyone has their own tried and tested ways and no doubt the Bal technical have more practical experience than us mere Tilers . After all we just want you to spend loads of money on uncoupling mats! :smilewinkgrin:
 
John you can get in writing from them, they will still find it to be your fault. :incazzato:
 
BAL who screwed up there grout so much it had to be reformulated within the first 12 months of release?
Personally I think not decoupling stone over UFH is insane!
 
As was said if you feel better in yourself using it ,well no problem use it ,the question was do i need to use it ,nobody said not to use it,admittedly i once had a problem with bal grout and was told it was up to BS so that was it no more i could do
 
Another thing is all theese companies with there guarantees which when you have problem they wangle there way out of it by baffling you with science and that is not just one company but a lot of them
 
I have personally used bal products since the bal tad days, and only ever had the one problem with them and that was the white grout wasnt as white as it should have been so i tend to stick (no pun intended) with what i know
 
Surely it depends on the job in hand? If it's just a new 15sqm screed then u will probably get away with it but through doorways and going from old building into new extension is a must IMO
 

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Limestone tiling over a dry sand and cement screed with UFH
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stusgsx,
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