marking your cuts

[charlie1]

Some old houses , the walls could be megga out of plumb , so point to point marking is required , not all jobs are 100 % plumb and square , welcome to the real world of tiling.

no need for the welcome, been here for a while. If the wall is out of plumb then i will always look for a solution to correct this, especially if tiling an external mitre then its a must! Having said that, if the only solution is to tile then mark tile then flip and mark ( point to point)

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Measure once, cut twice Phil?

:lol: my excuse is I am old John, you can tell by the way there are always 5 replies before mine.

 

[Diamond Pool Finishers]

Well i never measure look and Nip :indian_brave:

 

[DHTiling]

no need for the welcome, been here for a while. If the wall is out of plumb then i will always look for a solution to correct this, especially if tiling an external mitre then its a must! Having said that, if the only solution is to tile then mark tile then flip and mark ( point to point)

120 yr old house , quadrant shower in one corner of bathroom , no other tiling , walls out of plumb by 6 inches but flat , how do you plumb shower walls. ?

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

you old school tilers do everything by eye phill!!

No Mark, but a keen eye can be as accurate as a theodolite or a dumpy level, I have proved it on site many times.

 

[John Benton]

Well i never measure look and Nip :indian_brave:

I used to do that, but with the size of tiles now I got it down to being as much as 3/4mm out on a 900mm tile which is not accurate enough so I went back to measuring

 

[charlie1]

120 yr old house , quadrant shower in one corner of bathroom , no other tiling , walls out of plumb by 6 inches but flat , how do you plumb shower walls. ?

as i previously said Dave, sometimes you just need to tile to the profile of the wall. However in the situation you describe is very extreme, on a less extreme scenario to the one you describe, you could plumb the internal row where the two tiles meet in corner, then fade out to the profile of the wall where the tiling stops, depending on different factors, it may look better to simply tile the wall. I think when tiling with large format and stone where the side edge can be exposed, its good practice to make the wall plumb

 

[DHTiling]

as i previously said Dave, sometimes you just need to tile to the profile of the wall. However in the situation you describe is very extreme, on a less extreme scenario to the one you describe, you could plumb the internal row where the two tiles meet in corner, then fade out to the profile of the wall where the tiling stops, depending on different factors, it may look better to simply tile the wall. I think when tiling with large format and stone where the side edge can be exposed, its good practice to make the wall plumb

In an ideal tiling world yes ... i do as you mention when possible but if tiling was that easy then 5 day courses would work

 

[charlie1]

In an ideal tiling world yes ... i do as you mention when possible but if tiling was that easy then 5 day courses would work

make your tiling world ideal, that's what i do! If your unable to make it ideal for whatever reason then walk away from job.

 

[White Room]

make your tiling world ideal, that's what i do! If your unable to make it ideal for whatever reason then walk away from job.

You could be doing a lot of walking IMO...

 

[DHTiling]

make your tiling world ideal, that's what i do! If your unable to make it ideal for whatever reason then walk away from job.

Then you would have no work ....

- - - Updated - - -

You could be doing a lot of walking IMO...

Amen

 

[kilty55]

i just flip and mark both sides of the tile charlie

 

[charlie1]

You could be doing a lot of walking IMO...

why mark? I tell customer what prep us required and the benefits, they usually say yes.

 

[DHTiling]

why mark? I tell customer what prep us required and the benefits, they usually say yes.

I am out on this one now ... you will learn

 

[Peter]

Usually rake point to point or take one mark and check it with the next few cuts. Don't use a tape unless it's something very large format. Offering up beside the next tile is a lot more accurate.

 

[charlie1]

I am out on this one now ... you will learn

us 5 day coursers will always need to learn Dave!! Lol

 

[The D]

make your tiling world ideal, that's what i do! If your unable to make it ideal for whatever reason then walk away from job.

you must be all that and a bag of chips :lol:

 

[nybor62]

its not rocket science , you have a space were the tile needs to fit , mark it cut it then move on , simples lol

 

[charlie1]

you must be all that and a bag of chips :lol:

what exactly do you mean by that dean?

 

[DHTiling]

what exactly do you mean by that dean?

I know i was out but now i rest my case... A'men lord

 

[charlie1]

I know i was out but now i rest my case... A'men lord

Dave, stick to the point or bow out like you said

 

[DHTiling]

Dave, stick to the point or bow out like you said

You cannot plumb every wall , surely even you know that..?

lets say you have a shower wall with 2 exposed edges .. (L/shape) ..

Wall 1 is 15mm out of plumb within 2,3 mtrs high and wall 2 10mm out of plumb...

So what you are saying is you would pack both walls out to be plumb and have a 15mm and 10mm exposed filled edge ..? ..


listen.. at the end of the day each job is taken at face value and tiles accordingly to suit said situation .. if you say each job should be 100% plumb etc then i am afraid you are deluded..

if only tiling substrates were 100% perfect day in day out.. i would sleep well at night

 

[The D]

what exactly do you mean by that dean?

From what you are saying I think you must be the best tiler on the planet if you tile every wall and you only have to put one mark on the tile and it fits perfectly you must be all that and a bag of chips and I take my hat of to you as I am a mere mortal and have to mark the tile at both ends. That is exactly what I mean

 

[charlie1]

You cannot plumb every wall , surely even you know that..?

lets say you have a shower wall with 2 exposed edges .. (L/shape) ..

Wall 1 is 15mm out of plumb within 2,3 mtrs high and wall 2 10mm out of plumb...

So what you are saying is you would pack both walls out to be plumb and have a 15mm and 10mm exposed filled edge ..? ..


listen.. at the end of the day each job is taken at face value and tiles accordingly to suit said situation .. if you say each job should be 100% plumb etc then i am afraid you are deluded..

if only tiling substrates were 100% perfect day in day out.. i would sleep well at night

no, i you read my reply again you will see that i agreed with you to a certain extent!

option 1, plumb wall and have exposed edge gap.

option 2, plumb where tiles meet in corner but fade to profile of wall on outer edge

option 3 simply tile whole wall out of plumb.

I'm well aware that tiling to profile of wall is the better option in some cases.

 

[DHTiling]

no, i you read my reply again you will see that i agreed with you to a certain extent!

option 1, plumb wall and have exposed edge gap.

option 2, plumb where tiles meet in corner but fade to profile of wall on outer edge

option 3 simply tile whole wall out of plumb.

I'm well aware that tiling to profile of wall is the better option in some cases.

Then re-read back through your arsey replies to members and see where we are coming from FFS.


bangs head against wall