Marmox Boards on the Floor andUFH

[Qwerty]

No, just use a 6mm bit to drill through both but you just need to ensure the rawl plug is in the wall securely.
As for the frame, I would try to use cls if it will allow. Fix frame securely to walls and floor (can even use a mastic type adhesive across the top where it adjoins the bath.) Make sure it is a solid rigid frame for the marmox to fix to. You can use thinner marmox here if you like. Two vertical uprights within the frame should suffice. I often use keku or magnetic fixings for hidden panels with a neat bead of Silicon instead of grout.

 

[Ziggy1979]

Thanks again PTT

For the CLS frame, what sized timber is the minimum I can safely get away with? The edge of the bath isn't very wide and I think the tiles (marble) will be about 15mm so I'm not sure ill be able to use 3x2.

for the hidden panels, do u fix the keku/magnets to the back of the marmox board? If so, can't the screw rip off the marmox when pulling the panel out?

Thanks!

 

[Qwerty]

Basically you need to use the biggest size you can get away with under there. I use 3x2 if I can. I screw through from the face of the marmox using a washer to spread the load but use screws that screw into the plastic holes of the keku fixings. Once tiled over on the front it is a very solid fixing!

 

[Ajax123]

You have a floor area approximately 2.4x3m = 7.2m2 based on a 100w/m2 mat you will get a heat output of just 720w per hour. That dies not allow for any downward heat loss. You need to calculate the rooms heat loss to see if 720w/h will overcome the heat loss. If the heat loss is more than 720 your room will never warm up ad your electricity bill will be huge.