Mick's Speedy Tiling Tips

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any advice on cutting holes to fit large format tiles around a recessed shower mixer. Is it even worse with marble tiles?
 
Mick, I must try a stick with a 45 degree cut at one end like you said the next time I do a diagonal job. Though I s'pose it works best when the tile corner is 45 degrees or more...
Cheers! :thumbsup:
 
mick, sorry i asked a question and was then called away. the recess i was talking about is for a mira recessed shower mixer tap. all the feeds to ad from it will be set in the wall with, hopefully just the control knob sticking out. I am going to have to cut an ellipitical hole approx 120 mm wide and 80mm high. i was thinking of buying a diamond core drill, the type you cool with a wet sponge - whats you opinion of them?

ps you've probably guessed by now i'm just an amateur at tiling!!!:8:
 
Hi Mick,
you didn't mention that you would need to put the blade on reversed and also put the splash guard on the other end if you try the reverse polarity trick.

Also, wouldn't that tend to want to pick the tile up off of the deck?

The whole idea behind doing things the way they are designed is that the force of the cutting blade is directed down onto the deck putting pressure onto the piece being cut and so minimizing the chances of it being flung upwards.

This seems to be a rather dodgy tip.
 
Just going through a few threads and have noticed there are alot of novice and first time tilers posting on this forum and all seem to be concerned about how long things can take. This is true tiling can be tedious and slow at times and you need the patience of a saint on some projects.

So I thought I might share some tips and tricks with the new folk on how to do some things more efficently. The pros should know most of them by now so this post is aimed at the "GREEN AS GRASS" new tilers. So on to the trick of the week.

THIS WEEKS TRICK

DOING MULTIPLE STRAIGHT CUTS

At some point you are going to have to do alot of straight cuts be it on a floor or on walls this method works on both except walls where you'll have to mark each tile, but for this example we'll look at floor tiles.

So you've just laid the main body of your floor and you just have the cuts to do most new too tiling will grab the tap measure and begin on one side of the tile then the other and transfer these marks to the tile and the cut and fit. But for this tip you can put the tape back in the toolbox and just grab 4 or 5 tiles and lay them out upside down where they are to go, pushing them hard up against the wall then place a mark allowing for a space and wall clearance sighting down over the tile where it overlapps the last full tile go to the number 5 tile and do the same then using a straight edge draw a line connecting the 2 marks. Number the tiles 1-5 and cut on cutter then test fit continue on down the wall until you have cut all the tiles then flip them back and glue them in. It will take some practice and a little time to get it right but once mastered can save alot of valuable time.

Ths method can also be adobted for wall corner cuts as well as wall to floor cuts you simply turn the tile so the back is facng out push good edge into corner or onto floor and mark leaving grout line and clearance do a series and then cut on the tile cutter no measuring required.

Hope you enjoy reading this weeks tips and tricks. Try it on your next project You'll soon be amazed at how quick it can be. :thumbsup:



NEXT WEEK !!!!!

Corner cut-outs using the tile cutter :huh2:

do that all the time
 
Hi Mick,
you didn't mention that you would need to put the blade on reversed and also put the splash guard on the other end if you try the reverse polarity trick.

Also, wouldn't that tend to want to pick the tile up off of the deck?

The whole idea behind doing things the way they are designed is that the force of the cutting blade is directed down onto the deck putting pressure onto the piece being cut and so minimizing the chances of it being flung upwards.

This seems to be a rather dodgy tip.

No need to reverse the blade damond wheels will cut in either direction, only if the blade has directional teeth then you would need to reverse.

Suprisinly 'No' the tile does not tend to lift whilst cutting, because the radius of the blade actually hits the top of the tile first so downward pressure is maintained. The only way you would get lift is if the blade was actually below the tile and spinning couter clockwise.

As a point of note Rammondi wet saws all spin counter clockwise right out of the factory. I own 3.

Dodgey tip Not IMO, but use a qualified electrician for any modifications.
 
mick, sorry i asked a question and was then called away. the recess i was talking about is for a mira recessed shower mixer tap. all the feeds to ad from it will be set in the wall with, hopefully just the control knob sticking out. I am going to have to cut an ellipitical hole approx 120 mm wide and 80mm high. i was thinking of buying a diamond core drill, the type you cool with a wet sponge - whats you opinion of them?

ps you've probably guessed by now i'm just an amateur at tiling!!!:8:

Hi Dave,

Marble is soft so you could use a diamond hole saw or I just use an angle grinder with diamond wheel.
 
YES they still have arrows, but only directional blades will need to be reversed eg Turbo pattern blades.

All other blades eg continuous and segmented will cut equally well in either direction.

Simply turn the blade over if you so wish, but once the arrow wears off from use how does one tell the difference anyway???
 

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