Just thought I would add to this, there seems to be some confusion about the screeds and I am having trouble getting good advice.
Basically my screed is hemihydrate and not the seemingly more popular anhydrite, where the confusion seems to come from for me anyway is the laitance. I have been told by my screed manufacturer that their particular hemihydrate screed has no laitance the top of my screed is smooth and hard with no dust at all. I am also led to believe andydrite screeds have a more dusty loose surface finish when they are fully set which obviously means they have to be sanded and hoovered prior to priming however my screed already has a smooth solid surface as I said above which the manufacturer assures me won't need sanding prior to priming. In fact he has told me about instances where tiles have had to be for whatever reason removed and the Un sanded screed has put up very great resistance to tile removal. So to summarise the above I have Ardex telling me that I need to sand my smooth screed therefore creating dust that I don't have now and a screed manufacturer telling me that I don't need to and just prime with Ardex p51 straight on top. Has anyone come across an hemihydrate screed before? I'm tempted to put some pictures up to show what it is like. What I should do now is anybody's guess. obviously Ardex and screed manufacturer aren't willing to put in writing that either of their opposing directions are correct?????
Thanks for that Tom, it does seem to prove the point about hemi having no laitance. Even states one one is a stronger bond when not sanded. What to do now lol
Robert the sigma is best, end of that discussion. Robert I don't know what kind of tiling experience you have as I haven't seen it mentioned but I will mention a couple of things that may catch you out (apologies if you have been tiling for hundreds of years lol)
1. I wouldn't use a wet machine to cut them because
.it's very time consuming
.pending what machine it is, it is hard to get straight lines
.which brings me onto my other point. Rake cuttings I.e a wall is 'straight'. I find with wet cutters as soon as you start cutting, your 'lines' dissappear with the water which makes rake cuts very difficult.
For that problem I would use an angle grinder. Get a good blade!!! Can't stress that point enough especially with 80m2 to cut.
Door frames- going multi room your going to get them. Use a multi tool and cut the bottom of the frame out, enough to slip a tile under. It makes cutting round doors a lot easier and allows some room for error.
Lastly another point I haven't seen anyone mention- setting out!!! This will make the job 'easy' or turn it into a complete disaster. Spend at least an hour setting the floor out. Only start it once your confident you have set it out right.
As mentioned before apologies if you have been tiling for years and years, I have just shared some reasonable pointers for you to consider
Robert now I am finally on the laptop. Multi room always results in some almighty cuttings. Pictures speak a thousand words. Please find attached, pics of how the pros do it, lets separate the men from the boys! The tile in question is Provenza fully vitrified porcelain 600x600 imported directly from Italy. In excess of 15 grand, tiles alone!!! anyhow best of luck Robert 🙂
I am sure more tilers will put up more examples of work previously completed but all examples are of 600x600 tiles. the 1st few are of a "perfectionist customer". Straight coming in the door but at a 45 degree angle at the livingroom/ kitchen. This was a nightmare barrage of cuttings at a 45 degree angle BUT set out right it is do-able 😉
haha I had to take the second door frame off, fix tile. trim door frame, refix door frame. I charged the customer a top dollar price which requires a top dollar finish.