Newb in need of advice

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Damn guys...you got me....I'm infact a retired lollipop lady trying to get into the tiling game as i know it can lead to easy street. lol seriously...I cant believe you guys judging me.....how do you post pictures on here?

Don't bite back jay jay. Persevere, accept the doubting and banter and you will get some good advise here.
Stick in there. Give funny replies, tends to work.
 
Jay jay, don't take this the wrong way, however you're out of your depth in this job, to many variables and pot hole with natural products, you just ain't experienced enough, you may well get the floor as flat as a mill pond on a summers day but that the simple part, it's the prep and the experience of working with stone that's required, in all honesty ask someone in here to give you a price to do the job for yo put a drink in top for yourself and tag along.
you also seem like a know it all that doesn't want to listen to the advice given, from people who have worked with stone. That advice has been don't do it by yourself
 
personally, I don't mind helping out a DIY'er on his own tiling project, and they find this forum very helpful for that, but don't take a-fence when you get the cold shoulder when were only trying to protect our lively hoods, just lately I have become very picky who I give advice to..
 
Jay, if your going to attempt a job like that then you must allow for expansion because everything moves, especially in a 400 year old barn with lots of timber in it. Is the floor that bad that you need to latex it? or is it because its not level? You can have a flat floor that is not always level, trying to make it perfectly flat can cause some problems but over that size area you should be ok.

The screed and concrete? is there gaps between these? If so then they will need addressing and a decoupling mat will help minimize any lateral movement. The 6mm perimeter gap? I do 10mm and then fit the skirtings, I think you should persuade the customer that the best finish will be if the skirts are removed.

The prep work here is vital as are the different stages of cleaning and sealing the stone. Travertine tiles should be back skimmed to fill any holes prior to fixing and white flexible tile adhesive used.

Try and post some pictures.
 
Hi everyone, thanks for taking the time to view my thread and hopefully you experience gents and ladies if any on here wont mind me picking your brains! :smilewinkgrin:
My names JayJay, I am not a professional tiler but mainly buy and sell houses. Being that the market has been abit bad over the years I ended up starting a small tiling company to help with money as so far it has been fairly good. I enjoy tiling a lot as its a very skill full job to which you can look at a good completed job and think...'i did that'. I like to think I'm pretty handy at but here's the issue.
I have had the opportunity to price a floor tiling job with honed travertine tiles but haven't really had a go before. I'm sure some of you may end up telling me to leave it alone if I'm inexperienced but what's the best way to actually learn? I think its to have a go, as long as you not a complete cabbage I think it should be okay.
I reckon I know most of the theory in laying natural stone but I'm always happy to receive tips and suggestions from you masters out there. o.k I'm gonna stop rambling and give you the low down on this job. Basically I'm not sure what price to give as I would really like to get this job, it could lead to several other jobs which is always good and I have a few questions regarding the tiling. thanks

1) 48m2 floor which is a mix of screed and concrete which I will latex. How long should I wait before latexing onto fresh screed? theory is it dries at 1mm/day but obviously client doesn't want to wait for 4inches to dry.

2) Price for laying light honed and front filled 600x400 travertine floor tiles, 48m2 inc sealing many times and grout etc - brick effect to letex floor and just me
I've read/heard tilers say travertine costs more due to it being very time consuming due to sealing but how much more? I've read guys pricing £20-40/m2?


3) What's the whole reason behind leaving a 6mm joint all the way around any internal stud/external wall edges?? expansion? Won't this look really bad as the client wants to keep existing skirting down but it's mahogony stained? i could try and convince them to remove skirting, tile and leave 6mm joints away from walls and Silicon these edges then he can put skirting on top hiding the 6mm gap????

Thanks a million in advance guys...I do have a few more questions but I just want to get these clear for myself first before overloading my noggin! :thumbsup:[/QUOTE

youv'e Got some big "Cojones" on you starting a tiling company not quite knowing how to tile.
But I'm quite happy to give a bit of advice.
48m2 is quite a big area and depending on layout you may need to look at putting expantion strips in approx every 25ft
All stone floors must incorporate provisions for independent movement and having 2 different sub structures makes it even worse.
Concrete expands and contracts at a very different rates to screed and stone tile. I wouldn't attempt that floor without using a uncoupling membrane, As for drying times you really should carry a moisture meter with you if your trading as a tiler. With the weather we have at the moment you would only be guessing on drying times.
These are just a few basic points, not even getting to the types of adhesives and grouts to use to prevent bleed through.

Have a good think about this one mate before you decide what to do.
 
Makes me laugh, people can talk an inexperienced pilot out of the sky but we cannot talk someone through a job? If we give him the correct advice he will do it, lets just sit back and see if we can make him fail. Jay Jay, call me on 07805858528 if you have problems and I will help you son.
 

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