Discuss Plastic ply in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

G

grumpygrouter

Hi basically the PVA / primer is to seal any dusty areas that are apparent after brushing down the surface .I have used plastic ply from the beginning ,trialing it for my local branch ,and as some one has said it does what it says on the tin .I have used it it on floating floors in excess of 30 sq mtrs ,floor boards ,weyroc floors and even ware wood floors have joined into screed.As long as the instructions are followed you won't find a better or easier product to use on the market and it's only 2mm thick.:hurray::hurray:
I assume you don't use it to strengthen floors in your installations?
 
S

Stan001

I have used it over a wooden floor, the floor must be sound. My customers floor was chipboard, all anchored under bathroom furniture. I had to keep a low threshold so plastic ply at less than 2.5mm height was perfect. At the price (cheap) and ease of use (it's got stickyback clear plastic you stick it down with – kneel on it you will glue you to the ground very strong, easy to cut with knife), and ease to carry (comes small packs you can carry under your arm, very light, you lay them down brickbond) I think it’s good gear.
I used BAL APD prime on top of the chipboard just to ensure a dust free starting surface. I used flex addy to fill in the top of the plastic play (its lots of small diamonds), then you tile away! ... won the TTA product of the year award. Quick, easy, cheap strengthening and decoupling.
(it’s not used to strengthen or flatten the floor)
 
T

The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP

I have seen this stuff in local tile shops, I would not risk using it:thumbsdown: Looks OK for Diy, I don't fancy laying a floor on cellotape as one guy from Dural called it. I don't see how it can be classed as a decoupling membrane. I have read all the tech stuff on Ditra and CI That makes sense, crack isolation, lateral movement etc. they do nothing to overcome deflection. IMO this is a gimick, if I need to overcome deflection I will use a suitable backer-board. If I need to overcome lateral movement or green screeds liable to shrink with curing, I will use Ditra or CI. No blue tack for me thank you:thumbsup:
 
G

grumpygrouter

I have seen this stuff in local tile shops, I would not risk using it:thumbsdown: Looks OK for Diy, I don't fancy laying a floor on cellotape as one guy from Dural called it. I don't see how it can be classed as a decoupling membrane. I have read all the tech stuff on Ditra and CI That makes sense, crack isolation, lateral movement etc. they do nothing to overcome deflection. IMO this is a gimick, if I need to overcome deflection I will use a suitable backer-board. If I need to overcome lateral movement or green screeds liable to shrink with curing, I will use Ditra or CI. No blue tack for me thank you:thumbsup:
Me too!! :thumbsup:
 
S

Stan001

If I need to overcome green screed I'd use BAL Green Screed addy possibly with ditra or CI especially over UFH.

If I need to overcome flex on wood Id have the floorboards up and add extra noggins or/or hardi cement boards.

If I need to overcome an unavoidably flexible floor I’ll be using Fastflex with a solid bed tipped trowel to form a flex separation bed before the collapsable adhesive bed.

If i need to decouple laterally I’d use ditra or CI mat.

If i need to decouple two vertically moving or dissimilar surfaces (say from a wood to a screed area), I'd use an expansion joint.

if I want to decouple at the lowest height especially over chipboard floors I’d prime then use plastic ply.

There is no one magic do it all solution unfortunately. .... but I’m working on it and when I invent it I’m gonna sell it to you even more expensive than ditra and in an even brighter shade of orange! (and it’ll have a picture of me on the side of the roll – just like Paul Newman’s salad cream:thumbsup:)
 
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N

NEALE

Ithink the name is putting the trade of,if you have masive deflection yess use 18mm ply, but you will fined the ply will move on the joint and crack the tile on the lenth of the ply sheet,why becaues thair is no give it is to ridgid,cut plastic ply into strips to cover the joint this would allow movement under the adhesive.
What i am saying is the standerd bathroom job 4/5 m2 floorboards have been down twenty years, if the floor was going to deflect it would have done by now.:mad2:
 
D

DHTiling

Sorry mate but that is utter nonsense..

A deflecting floor will deflect no matter how old it is...

Are you an Actual tiler or just a sales guy for NMP..?

If you are a tiler then you should know how deflection works and thin plastic sheets that is basicly an uncoupler to prevent lateral stress cracks will NOT help against deflection..
 
D

DHTiling

You have to try new products out to know how good thay are, only trying to save you time and mony mate:thumbsup:been tiling for 30 years this is a updat of wire mesh never had problem with that over 30 years:thumbsup:


Wire mesh... roofing felt... all been done mate..:lol:... but c,mon .. honestly you can't be telling me NMP is the NEW over boarding for timber substrates..?

So do you use an S2 adhesive with it then onto floors boards.. what about chip board floors..?
 
T

The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP

You have to try new products out to know how good thay are, only trying to save you time and mony mate:thumbsup:been tiling for 30 years this is a updat of wire mesh never had problem with that over 30 years:thumbsup:


Hi Neale, I've been tiling over 40 years and remember expanding metal well. As I recall this method was used for timber substrates, only to bond sand and cement screeds prior to tiling. Not intended for use with adhesives, I used this method for years very succesfully. imo plastic ply has nothing in common with it. Time will tell, not for me I'm afraid:thumbsup:
 

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