Plastic ply

[Gazebo]

I have used it over a wooden floor, the floor must be sound. My customers floor was chipboard, all anchored under bathroom furniture. I had to keep a low threshold so plastic ply at less than 2.5mm height was perfect. At the price (cheap) and ease of use (it's got stickyback clear plastic you stick it down with – kneel on it you will glue you to the ground very strong, easy to cut with knife), and ease to carry (comes small packs you can carry under your arm, very light, you lay them down brickbond) I think it’s good gear.
I used BAL APD prime on top of the chipboard just to ensure a dust free starting surface. I used flex addy to fill in the top of the plastic play (its lots of small diamonds), then you tile away! ... won the TTA product of the year award. Quick, easy, cheap strengthening and decoupling.
(it’s not used to strengthen or flatten the floor)

Above you say cheap strengthening and decoupling, but then go on to say not used to strenghten...... which one is it..????????

 

[grumpygrouter]

Ithink the name is putting the trade of,if you have masive deflection yess use 18mm ply, but you will fined the ply will move on the joint and crack the tile on the lenth of the ply sheet,why becaues thair is no give it is to ridgid,cut plastic ply into strips to cover the joint this would allow movement under the adhesive.
What i am saying is the standerd bathroom job 4/5 m2 floorboards have been down twenty years, if the floor was going to deflect it would have done by now.:mad2:

Isn't deflection in a timber floor caused by the movement of the occupants weight acting on the joists and boards? I don't see what the length of time the floor being down has to do with that. If you have sucessfully used Plastic Ply as a decoupler then carry on using it. Me personally, I can't get my head around the priciples it is try to put over so it will not be on my shopping list nor will I recommend it to my clients.

 

[Gazzatile]

Interesting Discussion with good points from both corners. If we did not move forward with new ideas tiling would be done with sand and cement, having said that I can not get my head around plastic ply and will stay with my tried and trusted methods

 

[NEALE]

Good point,if we did not move forward with new ideas,you would not have tile trim.

 

[Gazzer]

Wire mesh... roofing felt... all been done mate..:lol:... but c,mon .. honestly you can't be telling me NMP is the NEW over boarding for timber substrates..?

So do you use an S2 adhesive with it then onto floors boards.. what about chip board floors..?

Why are you referring to NMP ( No More Ply) I see this thread to concern Nicobond Plastic Ply ???..... 2 Totally different things to avoid confusion....Also this NEALE isnt me :smilewinkgrin:

 

[DHTiling]

.. Still supplied by same comp though isn't it..


NEALE... can you link me to some Data that shows Plastic ply combats Floor deflection please..?

 

[Richard Edwards]

I agree with Dave on this one. P/ply from Nicobond will not solve lateral or vertical deflection issues. I've looked at it loads of times in my local N&C Depot and have yet to use it. I will one day when the right task emerges. Until then - I will continue to use lux / cementous / hardie boards even paying the price for increase in floor height.

 

[NEALE]

Dave can you show me some date on plywood for lateral movement?
Wood exspands and contracts, plywood or eny other solid overboarding product which is fixed to floor boards which as you know is nailed to the main support,the main support exspands and contracts,where the two sheets of plywood or eny other solid board meet you will have movement which will crack the floor tiles hope this helps.
Data on Plastic Ply, look on Google ?

 

[doug boardley]

Dave can you show me some date on plywood for lateral movement?
Wood exspands and contracts, plywood or eny other solid overboarding product which is fixed to floor boards which as you know is nailed to the main support,the main support exspands and contracts,where the two sheets of plywood or eny other solid board meet you will have movement which will crack the floor tiles hope this helps.
Data on Plastic Ply, look on Google ?

but that's why we should leave a 2mm gap between them Neale to combat movement (and obviously use flexible adhesive).

 

[NEALE]

But if movement it allowed to happen under the adhesive,which i think Plastic Ply lets happen, this must be a good thing not to just rely on the adhesive to take the stress of movement?

 

[TrumpersUnited]

I know a tile shop in Derby that took this product into stock and tested it as the staff were unsure about this product. They got a good strong pallet screwed the boards down and then used plastic ply on top and tiled the pallet. Guess what it failed!

They also said you must use an S1 adhesive (which in my eyes will take the lateral movement anyway)

Stick to No More Ply or Hardibacker

 

[NEALE]

Sorry don't belive you, i tiled a pallet left it out side for six months nothing rong with that.

 

[DHTiling]

NEALE, you are talking side to side lateral expansion.. I asked about Deflection, up and down movement..?

|So you are saying plastic ply is only for lateral movement and not to help tiling onto timber floors unless it is 100% solid.. no bounce at all.?

 

[NEALE]

Dave,i was just giving you example,all i know is that i have tiled 5 bathroom floors which have been around 80 years old over the last 12 months, one floor had slight bounce, when the job was done the floor was more rigid.

I have been back to one job as she needed her utilty floor tiling,which was wooden floorboards hight was the problem for the washing machine so i used Plastic Ply.

This was six months ago, if the product was going to fail i am sure it would have by now, due to the vibration of the washing machine, what more can i say the product works

 

[diamondtiling]

6 months is not a testing time, the grout may be holding everything together Neale. Plastic ply is not a product I can ever see me using, its a get out of jail quick card, I would rather prep properly.