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Discuss primer peeling in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
Why not change the dhesive that you use to one made from gypsum...
Any way that would not make much difference cos they are only one of many suppliers...... And in this case it is a bit unjust cos cemex supplied the screed not lafarge.....
But it sticks tiles to gypsum based screeds so why not??
I do not like being a gin pig and then blamed when it all goes wrong. There are a lot of threads on this subject and not many that have not had problems weather it be the tiler was told to sweep the floor with a stiff brush and no need to sand to remove the laitance or whatever you would like to call it today. (or do we have to sand with 80 grit??) or it could be the tiler has not applied sufficient primer or the tiler has over applied the primer or it is the wrong type of primer or it is a different type of anhydrite or we should be using gypsum adhesives. Anyway whatever I a staying away from them for now and we will see what problems the future holds for the poor old tilers that get involved .
To confirm I mixed 4 parts water 1 part primer I had checked with their tech many times to make sure there were no mistakes . I was told that to have enough primer to give two coats I would need 45 kilos of pr360 but I have used about 8 kilos at 4 to 1He used it 4:1 Doug. But I'am assuming that that is not 4 parts primer : 1 part water.
To confirm I mixed 4 parts water 1 part primer I had checked with their tech many times to make sure there were no mistakes . I was told that to have enough primer to give two coats I would need 45 kilos of pr360 but I have used about 8 kilos at 4 to 1
weber came down today with a 4 to 1 Pr 360 which they applied to test area after sanding clean ,i then applied a 4 to 1 of my pr360 next to it ,this evening to the eye they are not the same colour although still drying ,the weber 4 to 1 is fine but my 4 to 1 is if you put your fingernail on it is peeling.Same product ,same mix but both not working the same ?
I,m told that the Supaflo should have been mechanically sanded but cemex told me not to but in any event having seen the test area sanded and it is still peeling ?
I do wish i had gone with as different primer ,in fact we have done a test area on a no sanded patch with norcross and it is fine
Dont know where this is heading but how would you remove all this primer ,tried with a orbital 80 grit and it would take years .
Is there a machine out there ?
Ajax i have tried phoning ,will try you Monday
Thanks
weber came down today with a 4 to 1 Pr 360 which they applied to test area after sanding clean ,i then applied a 4 to 1 of my pr360 next to it ,this evening to the eye they are not the same colour although still drying ,the weber 4 to 1 is fine but my 4 to 1 is if you put your fingernail on it is peeling.Same product ,same mix but both not working the same ?
I,m told that the Supaflo should have been mechanically sanded but cemex told me not to but in any event having seen the test area sanded and it is still peeling ?
I do wish i had gone with as different primer ,in fact we have done a test area on a no sanded patch with norcross and it is fine
Dont know where this is heading but how would you remove all this primer ,tried with a orbital 80 grit and it would take years .
Is there a machine out there ?
Ajax i have tried phoning ,will try you Monday
Thanks
This I think is the most popular brand and model in the U.K. http://www.spe-int.com/multipurpose...purpose-preparation-system.aspx?prid=19&cid=4
Here's one for sale. SPE STR701 Multi Purpose Floor Preparation Machine | eBay
The special drive board you need is abou £150 ish. Everyone should have a rotary floor machine in their tool kit, use it on all freshly poured screeds to get a good key.
There are cheaper ones, Numatic do some, but don't know about accessory drive boards, but you could ask them. You see them for sale for a couple of hundred quid every now and then. I use Janser and Nilfisk for sanding all floors before tiling / floor laying. LOL, the ONLY application they are NOT used for is sanding wooden floors, so ironic that HSS call it a wooden floor sander?? Oh well...
Well done Chequers for keeping your cool and doing this job properly, most would say damn it we've started it'll be alright!!.
These screeds are causing so many people problems, which is a real shame as they are so nice to work on. I've been recommending them to builders and so far have had no problems, i've been sanding and priming them with a dilute epoxy epoxy primer and that stuff doesn't shift, but i'm waiting now for someone to say you can't use that because it contains some new ..ide chemical that will react with it.
I will be swapping to the gypsum based adhesives on the next jobs as this is the direction that these floors dictate.
Once again Ajax has been an amazing help, with well thought out and well written guidance on these matters, he's being a bit of a hero on hero on here.
Good luck matey!
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