Putting down hardiebacker board

[Mike]

what would worry me is that the boards are flexing and the slc is cracking and becoming loose. it's not ideal but hard to judge without seeing it. you went the wrong way round with the slc and may be taking a chance tiling over it. it may be ok though, it's a hard one to call. do you have any pictures of the slc?

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Good news, you should be OK, one tip, cut all your boards first and dry lay, leave a 5mm gap around the perimeter, also stagger the boards ( brick bond) leave 2mm/3mm gap between boards, take up one board at a time, glue and screw each board so the adhesive is still wet. Once you have glued and screwed all the boards. Tape all the joints with an alkali resistant tape, depending on the make of your boards, this will prevent cracking on the joints

 

[Hulloo]

what would worry me is that the boards are flexing and the slc is cracking and becoming loose. it's not ideal but hard to judge without seeing it. you went the wrong way round with the slc and may be taking a chance tiling over it. it may be ok though, it's a hard one to call. do you have any pictures of the slc?

the boards will be screwed down at 20mm center so would that cause much flexing?

 

[Mike]

you think the slc will be ok on the floor boards phil? i won't argue with you . you got more experience than me :lol:

 

[Mike]

the boards will be screwed down at 20mm center so would that cause much flexing?

you'll need a lot of screws for that! do you mean 20 cms :lol:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Sorry missed a couple of posts there, if you are sure the slc is suitable for timber the cracks could be shrinkage. Hope you sort it

 

[Hulloo]

you think the slc will be ok on the floor boards phil? i won't argue with you . you got more experience than me :lol:

It was everbuild 701 i think, and it did state it was suitable for wooden floors if first the floor was secured and primed with SBR

 

[Hulloo]

you'll need a lot of screws for that! do you mean 20 cms :lol:

LOL my bad i think the epoxy grout has got to me

 

[Mike]

sounds like you should be ok then. good luck and if you stick to the rest of the instructions the jobs a good 'un. if you're not sure about anything just ask (before you do it preferably lol)

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

you think the slc will be ok on the floor boards phil? i won't argue with you . you got more experience than me :lol:

Sorry Mike, we keep overlapping posts. The slc I use is called Levelflex and is fibre enhanced (very flexible) I would have no problem using it over floor boards prior to over boarding, but the way you described it is the correct way. Just trying to save some time and effort.

 

[Hulloo]

Good news, you should be OK, one tip, cut all your boards first and dry lay, leave a 5mm gap around the perimeter, also stagger the boards ( brick bond) leave 2mm/3mm gap between boards, take up one board at a time, glue and screw each board so the adhesive is still wet. Once you have glued and screwed all the boards. Tape all the joints with an alkali resistant tape, depending on the make of your boards, this will prevent cracking on the joints

Must i use flexi adhesive to secure the boards down seeing as the screws will be holding them in place. Reason i'm asking is i have the 1 back of flexi adhesive enough to cover the area of floor tiles require but have quite i bit of the non flexi wall/floor adhesive leftover......Just me being a cheapskate

 

[Mike]

you must use flexi adhesive as the wood can expand and contract and the flexi adhesive will allow for that. don't risk the floor failing for the sake of a tenner!

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

As Mike, don't skimp now

 

[Bathfix Bob]

Makes you wonder though how many people (trades included) use dri wall adhesive to glue the hardie backer boards down, it sure is cheaper than tile adhesive at *** a bag.

 

[Mike]

Makes you wonder though how many people (trades included) use dri wall adhesive to glue the hardie backer boards down, it sure is cheaper than tile adhesive at £16 a bag.

surely you can get decent adhesive for less than that bob?