Rookie looking for support with Slate and UFH!

[ewoc]

Thanks Dave for your info - I think I'll go for the Mattstone one

With regards tiling onto the boards do I need to prime again? or is it a case of placing ufh mat directly onto board and then tiling away?

 

[DHTiling]

If you use the cement faced boards..( which i would) then no priming required..

I know you are trying to keep costs down..but using a Flexi levelling compound will make your tiling over the ufh a lot easier...as this gives anice flat floor to tile too and no chance of nicking the cables with your trowel whilst tiling..

 

[ewoc]

whats the thinnest a self leveling compound could be layed? as i am a bit tight on levels

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi, and:welcome:

 

[DHTiling]

whats the thinnest a self leveling compound could be layed? as i am a bit tight on levels

Needs to at least cover the cables..3mm this will not alter the height as you need to sit the tile at this height anyway..

 

[jay]

:welcome:

 

[westerhopetiles]

hello leo from westerhope tiles niv duo from weber is awsome leveler up to 35mm in one go flexy does underfloor heating no problem no need for any boards it has fibres in it to give strength used it on loads of jobs and had no problems plus no primer needed as spf goes on no problem .if you dont want to change the colour of your slate seal guard is great drys quick and protects in under 2 hours get your local stockists to show you how it seals toilet roll very clever

 

[bootsmckiber]

Welcome ewoc(wasn't that an animal offa Star Wars?)First off you'd be doing yourself a favor if you got your sparky to show you how to test your heat mats,it's very simple,Of course you'll have already purchased a multimeter,not some clever electrical gadgetry(that already sounds like more money just for saying it)they're not expensive but invaluble if your tiling over heat mats,once you have the know how,test your mats after every row you set,it only takes a second and if your trowel has nicked a wire through a thin spot in your screed you'll be right on top of it then your sparky can throw in a splice kit,which could be done by yourself but it depends on your coding situation and how sure you are of yourself,but check them mats often.They do get nicked and you don't want to find out after you've finished your set.Secondly,and I think someone mentioned this but get a high end enhancer,it'll make the job,don't skimp on cheap sealer,Over here in the colonies we have a product called Aquaseal and I swear by it,It's expensive yeah but you make way more money than it costs by selling it to the customer before you set they're tile,(only works on natural stone)over here I pay $200.00-$250.00 for 4litres,but it's well worth the money ,it goes a long way and I always make 10 times or more my money back,Before you start a job just put enhancer on a piece of scrap slate,the look will sell itself,then you can double your sealing rate because of the high end finish,Anyways,I've said to much,I just love natural stone and done right it's the best,good luck,Mike

 

[bootsmckiber]

Oh and for the best finish always go with matte,not high gloss,there's a big difference and 9out of 10 customers prefer matte(Low sheen)the high gloss is a bit to much,unless of course they specify high gloss,which of course would mean you were setting in Buckingham Palace,cheers,Mike

 

[Richard Edwards]

Hello -

Just a couple of thoughts ref your Slate to go down on the Underfloor Heating.

I would suggest that you use large size boards 2500 x 600 of at least 12/12.5mm thick-, fixed with dot/dab method using highly flexible grey adhesive. Place dots at about 300mm centres and ensure really good contact. If you can use mesg mounted UFH as it easy to regulate the min 50mm wire gaps. Once down, test again the conductivity. Cover the wires with a soft blanket / dust sheets and then over board with 6mm fibre board / cardboard etc. This will protect the area your not working on and give you a decent area to work on.
Always use really good flexible adhesive and if in doubt add some polymer to to the mix.
Brick bond is actually easier than straight lay and you might consider an irregular brick to make it less regimented.
Personally, when laying slate, I prefer to grout it all before sealing as you might end up with sealant in the grout joints and then the grout wont take to it.
Warning - big time. When grouting - Always cleaning the grout off really really well, to the point of being over cautious as grout film left behind is a pain to remove later.

Then seal it with either LTP Mattstone for a flat finish or HG Impregnator for a slight satin look. Always apply a few thin coats and remove excess when wet immediately = work in small areas at a time, no more than you can reach - say 1.5m x 1.5m. Sealing after grouting will help to stop the grout from staining and becoming dirty as well. :smilewinkgrin:

Hope this helps.

Richard Edwards