Slc Method, My Way - How To Use Self Levelling Compound Properly

[DHTiling]

Totally missed this thread... very good advice to those in the need to know.. Top thread Phil.

Just to add for the readers..make sure your SLC is suitable for the depth you are wanting to use it at... and use the required primer for said substrates .

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Good thread, and I'm with it, but I wouldn't mind a bit more detail on the "dots set by laser runners made from 3-1 compo plus polymer and rapid set adhesive", if possible please?

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Good thread, and I'm with it, but I wouldn't mind a bit more detail on the "dots set by laser runners made from 3-1 compo plus polymer and rapid set adhesive", if possible please?

Hi Martyn, I hope these pics might explain, the dots are the level required made from shims/packers, or even cut tiles, set by laser. The runners are made up of 3-1 sand and cement with polymer and rapid set adhesive, to send off the mix.

The runners are only 20mm or so wide, (I use a Stabila level) as my guide, from one dot to the next I lay the mix then cut off the excess, if you wet the level before sliding it off the runner this will give you a nice neat finish.

Once the runners have set you just fill in the bays, as Dave says you must prime the floor and also use an appropriate slc I use Levelflex by tile master, it will go up to 50mm in one pour. Hope this makes sense.

 

[Diggy]

Whats with the triangular bay Phil ? To get a way out from the corner we can't see and tie up with the step height?
Also , how quick do your runners take to set?

Cheers

Diggy

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Whats with the triangular bay Phil ? To get a way out from the corner we can't see and tie up with the step height?
Also , how quick do your runners take to set?

Cheers

Diggy

I had to leave access to the stairs and other areas,so I could only pour one bay at a time. The triangle is part of the plan.

The runners go off approx 3hrs but I like to leave overnight when poss.

 

[Gazzer]

I have to wonder though...why the need for so much levelling. Surely when a client pays for a new sub floor it they should expect it to be level ??

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I have to wonder though...why the need for so much levelling. Surely when a client pays for a new sub floor it they should expect it to be level ??

You would think so Neale, but this one had a clown who told the customer "I can level your floor" he charged her £1200.00 pounds, the plumber then laid the polypipe boards. The floor was 20mm out of level so I had to use 30 bags of levelflex to get it right:mad2:

 

[Houston]

ive used both methods in the past,tiles/rapidset/sand&cement for my bays roughly the width of my feather edge and then fill. A little kitchen i did for a neighboiur were builder couldnt level the floor, especially towards washing machine. On bigger projects/substrates you could probably spend a good day or two gettiing levels and bays ready

 

[Gazzer]

Just 30 ?? Looks a load more than that.

 

[DJS]

Tried this method for the first time on my latest job and I like it. Managed to pickup some mosaics to make my dots, and set them using my laser level, and made runners with my level. Definately got better at it, the more I did. Put my level across it today and laughed when I saw the whole 2m span flat as a pancake.

I have to ask though, could you ever deviate from it slightly depending on the job? Eg. Could you flood the bays to just below the runner level, and leave to set. Then finish with a thinner pour, to cover the tops of the runners. The thinner pour able to be finished with a spiked roller and feather edge?