Discuss Spot fixing in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

Ste450

Surely if at least 70%/80% coverage is achieved, then the method is irrelevant? People keep saying they achieve 100% coverage, but time and time again when I'm ripping of old tiles I pretty much never see a evidence if a solid bed. There's nothing on the back of the tile and there is only a comb of adhesive left on the wall. It's like the tile had only been slightly touching the adhesive, hanging on for dear life. I prefer to spotfix on larger tiles, and by this I mean on a 600/300 tile, I'd use 18 spots which when compressed, spreads out to achieve a good coverage. I also find that this gives better adhesion, especially to plasterboard and you can actually level the tile instead of relying on a perfect wall which is rare, especially if its a timber stud wall. I only use top quality cement based adhesives as well, usually rapid setting. I recently ripped out a friends bathroom where the tiles were spot fixed and it took me two days to rip out down to the brick. The tiles were ridiculously solid and so was most of the old render.
 

widler

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Im with you john.
If it works for ste ,it works .
someone posted a video of a old timer 'spot fixing' metros on to what can only be described as a mess of a rendered wall.
Some of the folk were drooling over it, it also look rough as a badgers *** imo as well, lips, terrible spacing ect .
 

Andy Allen

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Surely that is what a forum is for - new members and their views on search history threads.
If your bored or not interested just pass - no need for a comment!
Now who are the grumpy old farts!
Except he's not a new member and he done this 'spot fixing' thing to death just after Xmas.........I'm sure the forum isn't for troll's.......but hay-ho.....I'll just keep out of it....:)
 

widler

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But as i understand it ,he is trying to get his point across .
All this rubbish about tiles being heavier is just thst , rubbish, as large stone has been cladded over walls for , well century's with sand ,lime,mud, poo and cement etc .
What wound me up (as usual) was some folk picking on his method (usual suspects)thinking it was the dot in each corner and blob on, when it clearly was not :)
I do enjoy some talk on here with a few , but the contraditions are massive with some people
 
T

Time's Ran Out

Most times the client hasn't decided on the final wall covering/finish when the walls are prepared, so it's our job to know the limitations and put them forward and our responsibility to do the job professionally.
If you can't do that or they won't accept your advice - you have the final say!
You walk.
 
S

Ste450

Did I create this thread...no. Am I allowed to put across my opinion well...yes.
I've took a different approach this time round but again, the same idiots are here and can't construct a debate. As if I'm here to troll, I'm here to put a few people straight on the whole spot tiling method...people trying to get it banned, its hilarious! If you use common sense you can't go far wrong.

Timber walls, even if built new are a pain to get absolutely perfect (we're talking 1/8") especially when the lengths are damp, they tend to warp when drying out. The best studs I've seen are the metal ones, but they're not as strong.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
S

Ste450

Spot dabbed tiles here...the worst I've ever had to remove! Had to use a medium sized kango! Still took two days to rip out. So, when people say that they're "prone to fall of the wall" I can only but disagree...and these weren't even 80% covered! Didn't even crack when smacked with a hammer!

IMG_7290.JPG IMG_7291.JPG
 

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