Thin porcelain suppliers

[Old Mod]

Had a quick go with the mitre filling earlier. Got a half decent technique down.

View attachment 100583

Fair play, I’ve been trying to perfect the resin work for 3 years now and I still struggle some days.
You’ll have to share your secret. 🙂

 

[Waluigi]

I’m the complete opposite of an expert and have never done anything like it before.

I just taped up either side of the joint with masking tape, about 2mm away from the joint. Used a small spatula to fill the joint proud then run the spatula against the tile on both sides to create a right angle of resin. Then once the resin had started to go off a little bit, I removed the masking tape and run a blade against the tile on both sides to removed a tiny amount of excess. Then once the resin had set I used a diamond polishing pad (60) to knock the corner point flat and round off, then finished off with a 120 and 200 grit pad. These tiles are Matt so I will polish a little bit tomorrow.

I went with about 2% of hardener to fill which was about right for a 2.4m run of mitre to fill and I didn’t want to weaken to the mix by adding too much Hardener as per Akemi’s instructions. I just hope this white doesn’t yellow too much......or shrink!!

 

[Waluigi]

Has anyone done this with thin porcelain?

Customer wants a light grey porcel-thin tile on the walls but on the top of the boxing containing the WC wall frame and also on the window sill, wants a much darker grey top. So the mitre work will go from light Grey to dark grey.

I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. I’m just getting my head around the resin work and wondering if I’d need to change the resin to a darker grey to match the darker tile, just on that particular joint.

Just pricing up at the moment but it got me thinking. It might look quite good.

 

[Cranbrook]

Has anyone done this with thin porcelain?

Customer wants a light grey porcel-thin tile on the walls but on the top of the boxing containing the WC wall frame and also on the window sill, wants a much darker grey top. So the mitre work will go from light Grey to dark grey.

I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. I’m just getting my head around the resin work and wondering if I’d need to change the resin to a darker grey to match the darker tile, just on that particular joint.

Just pricing up at the moment but it got me thinking. It might look quite good.

Im also contemplating doing a mitre on some toilet frame boxing, albeit with the same tiles... just checking (without wanting to read back too far), is the resin used instead of grout due to strength?

 

[Waluigi]

I think so yes,

Plus the nature of the resin means that it can be shaped, sanded, polished nicely to a smooth finish.

I don’t like the idea of grouting.

After doing this mitring (for the first proper time) I’d be confident to do mitres on boxing no problem. In fact I’d relish the idea. (Over confident much 🙂 )

 

[Waluigi]

A couple of shots of the mitres I did. Still waiting for the damn quartz countertops to be fabricated so I can take some better shots.

I just noticed the Silicon bead on the top right in the reveal isn’t quite right. Must try harder.

 

[Old Mod]

Are they high, or are you exceptionally short? 😀

 

[Waluigi]

It’s one of those arty farty shots. It’s standard height 2.4M ceiling

 

[henrik]

You won’t know which resin is better for you till you actually try it, it’ll come down to which you believe has better workability.
No amount of spec reading will help with that.
Whether it be Akemi Polysoft or Tennax.

No polyester resin will actually bond porcelain in the true sense of the term.
It has to be a full blown epoxy resin, which is another beast altogether.
Polyester resins are ok for soft applications, which is what this is.
You don’t need a full blown epoxy resin for what you are doing.
Americans swear by Silicon, based on the fact they feel that if there is movement, the Silicon will cope.
Polyester resin can split in this scenario.

Like I said, different resins, different applications.

hello new at the forum, tiler from Norway.. 😉 seems like you know your way around miters and I'm trying to wrap my head round which product to youse to glue porcelain miters together for a seamless corner.. The Akemi colour bond looks like the easiest way but is that the best way..?? I have never heard about or seen any miter corner like this in Norway so it's difficult to get any info about this in Norway.. I have been a tiler for almost 20 years and have over 1000 bathrooms under my belt so know how to hold a grinder.. 😉

 

[Time's Ran Out]

@henrik - welcome to the forum. Worked (tiling) near Bomlo 30 years ago - loved it.