Tiling a curved plinth

[kelvin]

Has anyone any examples of tiling an upstand off the floor around a curved section.

rgds,

kelvin.

 

[White Room]

Your going to have to slice the tile to the amount of angle you have...

 

[kelvin]

Have you seen a mosaic tile used to do this to contrast another tile used on the floor?

 

[White Room]

A mosaic would good but if it's a tight curve a paper faced one would be better because the meshed backed one would close the joints on the curve whereas the paper faced would keep an even joint....

 

[AliGage]

You could do it with a mesh mosaic but may have to slice it into strips to get even joints.
Marc (3_fall) has just done a big mosaic job where he's had to tweak things quite a bit. He'd be able to help and advise if mosaics was the way you go with it.

 

[Old Mod]

Have you seen a mosaic tile used to do this to contrast another tile used on the floor?

depends which way your curve is going. The blue are 20x20 mesh and pink 10x10 paper faced.

 

[kelvin]

Very nice that's what I was looking at trying to achieve but what would I use to form the curve off the floor ....it's in an upstairs bathroom..

 

[Old Mod]

Very nice that's what I was looking at trying to achieve but what would I use to form the curve off the floor ....it's in an upstairs bathroom..

To form the basic shape use plaster coving then blend in with adhesive.

 

[kelvin]

Ok...
it would need reinforcing behind as there is a void behind the cove...but I get the idea...

 

[Old Mod]

Ok...
it would need reinforcing behind as there is a void behind the cove...but I get the idea...

Cut back of cove off so that the leading edges of cove are virtually flush with the wall and stick and support with tile adhesive.

 

[MTiler]

Or you can use a quick drying render, using a plate/saucer etc. to get the radius you want, and will be square.

 

[MTiler]

Or are you talking about something like this :

 

[Dougs Third Go]

Cut back of cove off so that the leading edges of cove are virtually flush with the wall and stick and support with tile adhesive.

hope you don't do that on your canopy Marc :yikes: lol!

 

[Old Mod]

hope you don't do that on your canopy Marc :yikes: lol!

hahaha :rofl:

 

[kelvin]

Cut back of cove off so that the leading edges of cove are virtually flush with the wall and stick and support with tile adhesive.

This is what I was initially thinking about but was concerned as how the corners are finished and if you do start to form the curve around the base of the wall how does it look for external corners to keep the flow of the shape?

 

[kelvin]

Or are you talking about something like this :
View attachment 58691

no not really what I was thinking of but nice work all the same really neat!!

 

[Old Mod]

This is what I was initially thinking about but was concerned as how the corners are finished and if you do start to form the curve around the base of the wall how does it look for external corners to keep the flow of the shape?

to be honest never tried an external corner myself, maybe miss tiler has?
Have a look at my JOTM entry this month and it may answer a couple of your questions.

http://www.tilersforums.com/150-job-month-forum/73334-please-vote-jotm-april-2014-a.html

 

[TJ Smiler]

to be honest never tried an external corner myself, maybe miss tiler has?
Have a look at my JOTM entry this month and it may answer a couple of your questions.

http://www.tilersforums.com/150-job-month-forum/73334-please-vote-jotm-april-2014-a.html

Vote poaching....... i like your style lol..... Just kidding mate rrr:

 

[kelvin]

to be honest never tried an external corner myself, maybe miss tiler has?
Have a look at my JOTM entry this month and it may answer a couple of your questions.

http://www.tilersforums.com/150-job-month-forum/73334-please-vote-jotm-april-2014-a.html

3_Fall your work is exceptional I read your entry and some patience you have to be able to pull of that type of finish.
As you say it's all in the preparation to get everything nice and square.
This is exactly what I was trying to achieve for our shower area curved up the wall and curved along the base edge of the tray up to the glass.
Our trays are also marmrox shower lay and as you stated it's not suitable for tiles under 50 x 50 so I guess it could be done upto the curve edge in these then up the wall in mosaics ?

one question how did you finish the end of the curve where it meets the glass and upto the door did you tile it? I couldn't see in the pics.....

Ever travel to Scotland......?

 

[Old Mod]

one question how did you finish the end of the curve where it meets the glass and upto the door did you tile it? I couldn't see in the pics.....

Ever travel to Scotland......?

Thanks for post Kelvin, kind of you to say!
well if you have no height issues you could over board the tray in the same manor if you wanted to use mosaic throughout.
At the end of the skirting and into the glass I tiled it in mosaic. Didn't follow any kind of joint line. Just tiled it best way they fitted. It's such a small space it goes unnoticed but stil finishes it off.
I only travelled to Scotland once. It was back in mid eighties when I was part of a support team for Mitsubishi RAC Rally Team. Back in the days of Pentti Airikkala and Anders Kulläng and was lucky enough to get a ride with Anders as a co driver for couple hours during practice! Great experience.
Other than that? No haha

 

[kelvin]

Cool...experience!
Im a Londoner myself and live here through circumstances and commute to Norway for work.
My project here at the old church keeps me busy in my time off hence the 2 bathrooms I'm starting to plan for tiling.....

Incidentally our master bedroom has a dressing area off our ensuite which we are planning to tile the floor in these areas the same do you recommend a tile break at the door threshold or would you tile right through as this is what the wife is asking for....

The floor is 25mm ply with 6mm tile backer board and will have electric UFH mats in both areas.

 

[Old Mod]

Cool...experience!
Im a Londoner myself and live here through circumstances and commute to Norway for work.
My project here at the old church keeps me busy in my time off hence the 2 bathrooms I'm starting to plan for tiling.....

Incidentally our master bedroom has a dressing area off our ensuite which we are planning to tile the floor in these areas the same do you recommend a tile break at the door threshold or would you tile right through as this is what the wife is asking for....

The floor is 25mm ply with 6mm tile backer board and will have electric UFH mats in both areas.

personally for me, I wouldn't. I would probably try and get a grout line as close to threshold as I could tho. And as long as all the floors are made up of the same materials with no difference in expansion and contraction rates. I would think it'll be fine. I'd put u/floor heating down SLC over entire area add Ditra over that and tile. As memory serves, Schluter recommend putting their product as close to the finished surface as possible. There may be other thoughts on here, but that's the route I would take.

 

[Old Mod]

Very nice that's what I was looking at trying to achieve but what would I use to form the curve off the floor ....it's in an upstairs bathroom..

Just to go back to the curved plinth for a min, I think you may need a little more info, now that I know what you hope to achieve.
the transition between the wall and floor must be 90 degrees and must be uniform in its arc! otherwise as you roll the sheet round the former the mosaic sheet will twist in relation to the floor.
So.... Start by finding the highest point of your floor,
next find something with the radius of the arc you wish to create. Be careful you don't make it too small tho. Depending on the size of mosaic the radius will need to be different. e.g. The radius required by 10x10mm can be smaller than the one required for 20x20mm the result in the arc being too small will make the tiles bunch together and u will loose your grout joint!
Next, place your arc former hard against the wall, cove and floor, then Mark a line at the top of the arc former on the wall. Then you will need to place a baton on the full length of the wall, so that the bottom of the baton is on the Mark u've made with the arc former. Make sure you fix the baton dead level. I was taught to use a wheel but I adapted the idea to make life easier, for me anyway. I found a wheel a bit cack handed. Reason being is that the next process is very fiddly.
What you need to do is load up the cove that you fixed earlier with a fairly wet mix if adhesive.
Then holding your arc former HARD against the wall and push it up to the baton. So that as you pull the former thro it not only forms your arc over the cove but also leaves a solid bed of adhesive beneath it on the floor. This will create a perfect 90 degree angle between wall and floor. After u've pulled it thro you can feather off the adhesive on the floor into your existing floor. But u must feather it from where the bottom of the arc forms the new floor level. Does that make sense?
This is what I used on the pink 10x10s perhaps it'll make my description clearer.
i found a machined piece of timber with a perfect 90 degree corner. Then placed my arc former on top and shaped the timber around it. That way I have a straight edge to not only place against the wall but up to my baton also. And it gives a flat bed of adhesive beneath it, which can now be feathered off at the bottom of the arc.
make no mistake it is NOT easy, it's fiddly and takes practice. Try not to fiddle with it once u've pulled it thro too much. U can smooth it off once it's dry, it will look imperfect at first. And remember with mosaic, every undulation in the surface behind will be transferred to the finished surface, so it must be as smooth as u can make it!
And good luck!

 

[kelvin]

personally for me, I wouldn't. I would probably try and get a grout line as close to threshold as I could tho. And as long as all the floors are made up of the same materials with no difference in expansion and contraction rates. I would think it'll be fine. I'd put u/floor heating down SLC over entire area add Ditra over that and tile. As memory serves, Schluter recommend putting their product as close to the finished surface as possible. There may be other thoughts on here, but that's the route I would take.

So do you think I should not use the tile backer boards ?
Isnt the schluter product for wet rooms as the dressing room isn't and the ensuite is...forgive me if I misunderstand the products correctly...

 

[AliGage]

Schluter do do wetroom products. What Marc is talking about is"Ditra 25" which is a de-coupling membrane/crack surpression matting. It could be used as tanking but its designed for fixing over new screeds, timber floors, UFH, or any other substrate where lateral movement or expansion may occur.
Its ideal for your scenario, and serves best as close to the tiled surface as possible.