Tiling my house, need some advice

[tek_01]

Would that eliminate the colour getting dirty and/or yellowing over time?

 

[jay]

if you use the right epoxy yes

 

[Muse2k8]

Yeah you will get vibrations in anything, even concrete. The glass of water test is a good one. If the floor does have bounce the water will go everywhere. If it's just vibration you will get that whole jurassic park thing.

 

[tek_01]

Thanks for that. Been doing alot of reading on the forum lately and have come across another question

Initially i was going to go 3mm grout line on the floor because it would be easier for the new tiler and probably better, but everyone i have spoke to has said with these tiles you have to use small space ie 1.5mm or else they will look weird. Also the lash system use 1.5mm spacers.

Ive read on here that the standard is 3mm for floors, so why does everyone use 1.5mm?

 

[jay]

Yes and as you have read 3mm looks crap with rectified 600x600 but its up to you

 

[tek_01]

So 1.5mm is ok to use?

 

[jay]

Yes if your prep work adh and grout are up to it then yes

 

[tek_01]

Thanks Jay for answering all my newb questions, appreciate it

 

[tek_01]

So I started today with help of a friend who has done a bit of tiling before
All went well, done about 25 sq and using the lash system makes it easy... dont think i had a chance without
only thing is we didnt back butter them... how bad did i **** up?

 

[jay]

Did you lift a tile every now and then to see what coverage you were getting

 

[tek_01]

Yes, coverage was good and so far its been a few weeks and all is well. Lets hope they last the test of time (and wife/kids dropping stuff)
They look amazing and 0 lippage. Although the floor is not 100% flat (it follows the timbers curve) you cant tell coz there is not lippage
Thanks for the help

Now im onto the next part. The pre-exisiting slab and waterproofed bathroom, so of course here come the questions lol

1) On the slab is it sufficient to use something like bondcrete as it is a steel float finish and than lay a sand cement bed? I was thinking 40mm bed
2) 4:1 mix of sand and cement? also do i use mesh to re-inforce it?
3) On the waterproofing do i have to add anything to the floor before i put the bed down? primer? anything?

also am i ok in laying the bed down, waiting for it to cure than use a tile adhesive on top or should it be done as the beds getting you set them in the bed? Id rather do it the first way as its easier me with regards to time (1 man job most the time)

Thanks

EDIT: Any idea on how much stuff to order? the complete area is 7m x 5m that needs the screed to be done. how would i work this out?

 

[jay]

any pics

 

[tek_01]

any pics

Ill try get some, dont know how well they would look in photos

 

[tek_01]

So any advice on the above questions?

 

[jay]

1 Bondcrete is pva based not suitable

2 what thickness is render

3what type of waterproofing are you using they should have directions or recommendations


Better to wait til screed cures as other way is more a skilled trade


no pics

 

[tek_01]

Thanks, i will be going to the house tomorrow, have taken a week off due to father having operation and basically cbf going
So ill get ya some pics

It was acrylic water based i believe. Ill ring the waterproofer to make sure as i had to get a ceritificate for council so couldnt do waterproofing myself

I bought a grinding cup, should i just go over it with that and be done with it? or would i still need some sort of bonding agent?

 

[tek_01]

Its a bit hard trying to calculate the sand cement i need, am i doing it right?

7m x 5m x 40mm = 1.4cubes

4:1 mix is 1.12:0.28 cubes
roughy 2tonne sand to 500kg cement ?? 1cube = about 1.5tonne sand?

 

[jay]

You need to find out what type of waterproofing was used and find out there recommended procedure as not all waterproofing are the same,(take it has been waterproofed before the screed not the way i prefer as the screed will load up with water now )
If you are talking about roughing up the waterproofing with a grinder recommend you think again (please tell me that is not the case)

if your ender is 40mm thick you could use mesh expanding metal is good .

add a bit more to your calculations as it will take more in wet form

 

[tek_01]

Sorry, def not meaning the waterproofing with the grinder LOL
the living room is exisiting concrete slab with has a steel float finish so i have 2 options yeh? rough it up of use some sort of bonder/etcher to make it stick

the whole area is split into 3.

laundry 1.8x3.6m
walk in pantry 1.8x1m
lounge 4.8.x4.2

 

[jay]

May i ask why it needs rendering ,was it left lower to render

 

[tek_01]

Yeh, the floor is rough as guts because it all wasn't 1 slab. In hindsight if i put all the doors lower i could have just used a bit of self leveller and be done with it. Now all the doors/jambs are too high so it will look like balls

 

[jay]

Oh a bit of a **** up on the concrete finishers part doesn't surprise me .if the slabs rough then a good scrabble should do swept clean then you will need a slurry coat (sbr and neat cement) this must be brushed on to surface and stay wet until completely covered in render .for what its worth might be best to get a pro in to do it as it sounds easier than it actually is

 

[tek_01]

Got someone to help me who has done a fair bit before. I know ive tried and failed before lol..
Looks easy but trying to do it you soon find out how hard it actually is

 

[jay]

Just check on the waterproofing.as i said they are all different and leave it to your friend

 

[tek_01]

Ok got some pics for ya

This is the hallway leading to the rooms, main entrance is on the left

This is from the entrance looking toward the back where the lounge will be (stuff that has to be screeded is the section that is lower)

This is just a room. Havent really cleaned up the grout well enough