Tiling over plywood substrate

[Boggs]

Ditra is used to protect tiles from lateral movement found in concrete floors and by itself offers very little protection from deflection in suspended timber floors.
If you want to use Ditra you would need to overboard your chipboard with a 18mm ply first.
Personally I always use 6mm Hardie and have never had a problem.

 

[GoneGuy]

Use hardiebacker boards. 6mm notch trowel of adhesive then put boards ontop and screw with rust resistant screws (30mm) and scrim the joints of the boards and skim a coat of adhesive over it.

 

[Jrterror]

Ok Great. Thank you. What would I use as the scrim? Sorry, I'm a complete novis, who wants to do it right first time.

Whilst I'm here. Are the principles for floor tiling the same as walls. What advise would you give. I forget the size of the tiles, perhaps 500x 500.
ta

 

[GoneGuy]

This is the tape/scrim. It must be alkaline resistant tape

 

[Jrterror]

This is the tape/scrim. It must be alkaline resistant tape

View attachment 101221

Thank you. Just out of curiosity, why alkaline resistant

 

[DC Ceramic and stone]

I would never tile straight onto any timber in any form. Whether there is any bounce or not wood will move with changes in temperature. I would always recommend either Hardi backer or at the very least a construction board. Both stuck with flexible adhesive and screwed every 300mm. The tape needs to be alkaline resistant to avoid breaking down over time. In effect the floor needs to be tanked with the hardibacker to avoid water finding its way through to the timber substrate.

 

[Waluigi]

WBP Ply Circa 1990’s

In a Bathroom.

Today’s ply isn’t as good, in general.

 

[acaciaguy]

As said above use a backer board. Lovely to tile off too

 

[Boggs]

Up in one, that saves on rubble bags!!

 

[Waluigi]

8’ x 4’ sheet in tiles, on your own down the stairs..........

You can see my hopeless attempts at trying to knock them off. 😀

That was a few years ago.