O
oz bound
It sounds like the only sollution is to lift the whole floor and start again 
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V
vanessagernat
😳 - sounds as though we are going to have to strip out our kitchen - oh boy not looking forward to that.
T
TheWrightTiler
post a job on here and maybe one of the local lads would be willing to come over and advise you of what can and can t be done, we are here to help if we can
andy
andy
C
Colour Republic
Who spec'd the job?
Was it the architect? you may have a case against them. Also who instructed the builder, did the acrhitect put it out to tender and instructed the builder direct? Or did you find the builder?
Was it the architect? you may have a case against them. Also who instructed the builder, did the acrhitect put it out to tender and instructed the builder direct? Or did you find the builder?
O
oz bound
was just about to say the same thas the best advice for sure.
R
ringw
good advicewas just about to say the same thas the best advice for sure.
T
Time's Ran Out
Responsibility - ultimately the tiler - he should have known not to tile direct to chipboard.
From your information it would seem that the cracks are appearing along the 600mm widths of the Tounge & Grooved chipboard flooring, and the travertine is too soft a material to withstand the movement in the sub floor - especially with the UFH.
Rather than take up all the travertine - unless it is not well fixed - go for a decoupling membrane over the top (ditra or similar) and fix to this, using a flexible adhesive.
Someone will have to be held accountable for your materials and labour costs of the original job and that will be the person you paid to do the tiling.
The only drawback with this method will be a longer warm up period for the UFH.
Hope you get sorted.
From your information it would seem that the cracks are appearing along the 600mm widths of the Tounge & Grooved chipboard flooring, and the travertine is too soft a material to withstand the movement in the sub floor - especially with the UFH.
Rather than take up all the travertine - unless it is not well fixed - go for a decoupling membrane over the top (ditra or similar) and fix to this, using a flexible adhesive.
Someone will have to be held accountable for your materials and labour costs of the original job and that will be the person you paid to do the tiling.
The only drawback with this method will be a longer warm up period for the UFH.
Hope you get sorted.
D
doug boardley
but the de-coupling won't account for vertical deflection tho John
W
White Room
No decoupling membrane then
J
jay
best to remove and redo including good prep work (remove chipboard):8:
There are similar tiling threads here
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