UFH Height, Transition to Adjacent Flooring

[Houston]

sorry and diamond tiling

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

T&G is not a suitable substate for tiles, never was never will be!, overboard with min 15mm ply and to be sure, glue and screw backerboard. That way no probs, providing there is no deflection in the floor

 

[Houston]

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

We all have the right to our own opinions mate, but we are not doing this forum any good by giving bad advice. I stand by what I said re: T&G. I am well aware of the products you mention. I would never tile directly onto T&G

 

[Houston]

phill its not bad advice its fact, u can tile on T&G boards.

 

[Perry]

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

one of these company's used to have lots of probs and changed the goalposts overnight to having 30 cmts centers on joists i only ever have that in the commercial market with 40mm thick chipboard or tg ply i have seen lots of problems over the years direct on floorboards with the said adhesive some of the smaller floors i have seen had survived but i wouldn't take the risk after 28 years of tiling and the adhesive named will blame you without a doubt if there is any probs they will run a mile believe me they will not take any blame

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

phill its not bad advice its fact, u can tile on T&G boards.

I wasn't having a pop at you Houston, It's just something I would never do. As above adhesive manufacturers bring out these easy fix, no prep all singing, all dancing adhesives. Then when the proverbial hits the fan they don't want to know. In my 43yrs experience in tiling in the UK and abroad, I have never/will never tile directly to T&G. Just my opinion

 

[Rob Z]

With wood's tendency to expand so much across its width, I can't imagine getting a stable floor built of T&G strip flooring. Something needs to go over it to isolate the tile from the movement of the wood flooring.

We're on a job now which had tile set straight over T&G flooring. All three bathrooms had problems, the kitchen was so-so. Not a good track record for tile on T&G in that house.:mad2:

 

[leenco12]

I got a very good quote from U Heat and have exchanged a few emails with them, very helpfull by the way and they recommended the 10mm board & loose wire installation which is 4.3mm thick, I would then pore self levelling compound over this to seal it.
The room is only 3m sq but the toilet is set at an angle in a corner so I guess the wire system was better suited to my install.

The existing floor is approx 18mm tongue & groove boards. If I relayed the floor in 18mm ply could I then use a 6mm insulation board, mind you only saving 4mm for the price of a couple of sheets of ply......!!!

I thought about laying the wire then spreading the adhesive and laying the tiles but would not be able to gaurantee an equal coating of adhesive, plus the issue of the wire getting damaged.......!!!!

Why did I suggest to the wife it would be nice to have UFH.....:mad2:

Thanks gents....................:8:

T&G boards is not suitable to tile onto at all, fixing 10mm insulation boards wont add any strength either. The correct prep now will save you money in the long term.
As for the height difference I spray glue extra thick underlay right outside the door, refit the existing underlay and carpet and use a doorway trim that allows for two different heights.

__________________
watch movies online

 

[Houston]

its all in the prep

 

[Ken Bruty]

Houston, I have to agree with the others re: the t&g from a bad personal experience, where I was asked by my customer to tile onto t&g which I screwed really tight. The issue was height, because the front door was a pvc one and couldn't be trimmed at the bottom to accomodate any extra height that overboarding would cause, so I advised it best not to tile at all, but they were insistent, and, instead of walking away I gave in. Having done the job, I was waiting for the phone call, and sure enough in 3 months time - "can you replace 6 tiles that have cracked please" I got paid for it, but I was really uncomfortable doing this knowing that it would probably go again, which it did, but on the upside I could have been employed there full time replacing them when they went:lol:, but you just can't say told you so. The moral of the story is that I would NEVER do this again for anyone, I'd rather walk away from it in future. I have to say I think you have been lucky so far, I only did it the once. But we will all do things differently, that's what makes us human.

 

[Houston]

Mr Bruty, its got nothing to do with luck, its all in the prep!

 

[doug boardley]

Phil, i think you are wrong. If T&G boards are rigid screwed to joists and sometimes you might need some extra noggins its not a problem. Bal & Granfix do adhesives for T&G that i have used over the years and no probs

hve you seen what happens to T&G flooring after plasterers have been in???? the edges curl up! just imagine those edges
curling up under your tiles!!

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Mr Bruty, its got nothing to do with luck, its all in the prep!

Houston did you by any chance, do a Bal course? just curious.

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some threads in the underfloor heating forum. You can now find and search for both electric underfloor heating and water underfloor heating threads. By the way, if you feel some of the threads you want to be seen at the top of the forum need to be bumped back, for the next month or so from now, feel free to do that. Although it's not usually something we allow, whilst we're going through this process of changing over forum software, we see the need for this to happen.