Weber Set Trade S1, real problems!

[LauraCTW]

And if you prime against the manufacturer recommendations they blame the fact you have primed it !!
Can't win really...

Second that!!!

 

[Billski]

If it comes to it I think I'll have to take them up a row at a time and re fix them down in the exact position using a mosaic trowel with a decent adhesive. There's about £400 worth of tiles wasted otherwise.

 

[Tile Shop]

Also seen it before where a primer had been used (BAL APD), and it formed a very easy peelable skin. This ply was virtually impervious and has some kind of material built in, that prevented normal things from sticking to it. But the tiler did a test with the old two part BAL Fast-Flex and that stuck, but we all know that adhesive came from a different universe!

Like everyone says there are many different variations of ply, different variations of porosity, all had different kinds of treatment. No two ply's will act exactly the same, and will require different measures of prep (or none at all). Therefore priming the face may do more harm than good.

For that reason, people should stick to cement backer boards, 1. just to be safe, and 2. because its what they're designed for.

However, doesn't solve the OP's issue. But if one adhesive has worked and the other hasn't the next course of action is to definitely speak to Weber Technical and maybe get them to come and look at it for themselves.

 

[Billski]

I've contacted them and I'm waiting for them to arrange a visit. I'll keep you all posted.

 

[Dan]

Second that!!!

Third!

 

[Dan@Ultra]

Afternoon, UltraTile recommendation on Ply for all the Ultra adhesives.

 

[Dan]

Afternoon, UltraTile recommendation on Ply for all the Ultra adhesives.

View attachment 88029

Afternoon, UltraTile recommendation on Ply for all the Ultra adhesives.

View attachment 88029

Can't really go against what weber say though eh

 

[Dumbo]

I was always told not to prime ply unless it's dusty. Beginning to which I'd primed it now but if the instructions say not then I'd be going against the mi's, so they'd get me on that.

Had this discussion a while . I prime everything . Was told by people on here that I should not prime ply with bal fast flex. I checked their spec sheet and they were right . So I contacted bal and asked them about it and they said it wouldn't be a problem if I primed it . I expect the same answer may be got from weber

 

[Dumbo]

I am really interested to see how this develops please let us know how it turns out .

 

[Dumbo]

Is that right?!

Not sure but I believe it's glued and screwed at 150 centres

 

[Dan]

Not sure but I believe it's glued and screwed at 150 centres

I think @paul.c checked its 300mm mate. Plus he's managing to stick to the wood with other adhesives. So begs the question why not the weber set trade.

 

[Italy]

Am I right in saying the date on the bag is the date of manufacture and not expiry? I think we've done this before and somebody checked for us.

always production date

 

[LM]

Was the area of the tiled floor that is still stuck down trafficed much before it was tiled?
The reason I ask is that a few years ago I was on an Ardex/BAL course and this topic came up. They said that one of the major issues with certian Plywood boards was that they are coming from really hot climates and at first the plywood was arriving in the UK having spent weeks or so in very hot temperatures while in transit. This caused the glues that bond the plywood togeather to melt out of the ply to the board below while they where in the hot climates and when the bales of plywood were taken of the boats in the cooler UK they ended up as one large block of useless plywood all stuck togeater as one.
To counter this the manufacturers in these countries treated all the boards with a releasing agent that prevented the boeards from sticking togeather during transport. These releasing agents are invisible so they reccommended that before tiling any ply the board must be thourouly sanded to remove the releasing agent which in turn would allow the adhesive to key properly. I'm wondering if the area that the tiles are still down on had enough wear to remove the releasing aget before it was tiled?

 

[Dumbo]

Was the area of the tiled floor that is still stuck down trafficed much before it was tiled?
The reason I ask is that a few years ago I was on an Ardex/BAL course and this topic came up. They said that one of the major issues with certian Plywood boards was that they are coming from really hot climates and at first the plywood was arriving in the UK having spent weeks or so in very hot temperatures while in transit. This caused the glues that bond the plywood togeather to melt out of the ply to the board below while they where in the hot climates and when the bales of plywood were taken of the boats in the cooler UK they ended up as one large block of useless plywood all stuck togeater as one.
To counter this the manufacturers in these countries treated all the boards with a releasing agent that prevented the boeards from sticking togeather during transport. These releasing agents are invisible so they reccommended that before tiling any ply the board must be thourouly sanded to remove the releasing agent which in turn would allow the adhesive to key properly. I'm wondering if the area that the tiles are still down on had enough wear to remove the releasing aget before it was tiled?

Interesting . Also where he has stuck down tiles with different adhesive is this where tiling has already failed therefore removing release agent .

 

[Billski]

Well that does sound like it could explain things. But the area that the tiles did fix to with the different adhesive weren't really in a high foot traffic area. Best reason so far though.
Still waiting for Weber to get back to me for a site visit.