L
LesD
Hi,
I'm Les and I found the Tilers Form while Googling for BAL Products because I am looking for inspiration to get me kick started on fixing my shower having had one go a couple of years ago that has failed.
My first attempt involved adding a bi-fold door to a recessed shower that had a curtain at the front for far too long! Unfortunately I could not find a 900 mm wide bi-fold door in my local stores at that time so I used a narrower one, built some plywood faced buttresses and tiled over the plywood to narrow the space and fit the door. The door has been fine but two and a bit years later the plywood at the bottom of the buttresses is rotten. Investigation has revealed that there is not much of a leak but any leak is all it takes I guess! 😱
The main weakness in what I did appears to be the external corners on the buttresses where I used the generally available quarter round plastic edging strip. The little vibration as the bi-fold door snaps shut has weaked the seal to this strip and let some water weep through. I have considered fixes (like sticking 1" plastic angle over the external coners with Evode Wet Grap) but in the end I found a 900 mm bi-fold door and a 900 mm square stone resin base at Primrose Bathrooms on (of all places) eBay. I now have both the new 900 mm door and the new 900 mm square base in my garage while I contemplate what to do next. Body building would be a good idea now I know just how heavy these items are but suffice it to say I am just a wee bit past my prime so I will have to enlist the young men in my family to assist with the lifting and lugging tasks.
I will outline what I am trying to do below.
I have upstairs the recessed shower alcove that has been recently refurbished with new tiles over an existing tray/basin.
This old basin was "fixed" in using BAL Flex Liquid and powder some 25+ years ago and that part of the job is still going strong so my experience with this BAL product led me to want to use it again.
I have bought the nominally 900 mm by 900 mm by 95 mm stone resin basin that is going to be a right shoe horn job to get into the recess, especially considering how heavy it is. The instructions that came with this new tray recommend an external grade 20 mm plywood base board and bedding the tray into mortar. I fancy 18 mm MDF for the base board and buttering the bottom of the tray and the top of the base board with BAL FastFlex and bedding into that. Then filling round the tray between the walls and the tray and continuing far enough up the walls to stick on a row of tiles to make good the vertical gap between the existing tiles on the wall and the new tray with more BAL FastFlex. Grout up nice and white - job done. Well that was my plan.
I have also read up on the BAL tanking system and wondered about using it but I am not starting from scratch and the leak proof service I have had, having done the old tray with BAL Flex speaks for its self and encourages me to do it the same way again.
I have wondered with BAL FastFlex, as a non-pro. if I would be able to work fast enough to be able to use it instead of the BAL Flex that I used all those years ago. I am thinking along the lines that if I mixed up smaller quantities at a time and did the job in stages I might be OK but for the best seal I think it would be better if it all set together as a whole.
I will have the wall tiles removed to a height of 260 mm above the existing floor level when I take the old tray out of the shower recess and intend to remove all the old floorboards so that I can sink my proposed 18 mm MDF baseboard in on to the tops of the wooden joists. (This being an upstairs shower) The recess walls will be close up to the new tray when it is in place with about 12.5 mm gaps to fill between tray and walls on all three sides of the recess.
I expect that the new tray is going to be a pig to get in with the limited access so if I could do it without the recommended mortar bed this would be a definite advantage.
Any advice other than call in a proffesional (but it might come to that before to long if I can find a good one locally) would be very much appreciated.
Sorry but I can never use ten words when a hundred will do! 😉
Regards,
Les.
I'm Les and I found the Tilers Form while Googling for BAL Products because I am looking for inspiration to get me kick started on fixing my shower having had one go a couple of years ago that has failed.
My first attempt involved adding a bi-fold door to a recessed shower that had a curtain at the front for far too long! Unfortunately I could not find a 900 mm wide bi-fold door in my local stores at that time so I used a narrower one, built some plywood faced buttresses and tiled over the plywood to narrow the space and fit the door. The door has been fine but two and a bit years later the plywood at the bottom of the buttresses is rotten. Investigation has revealed that there is not much of a leak but any leak is all it takes I guess! 😱
The main weakness in what I did appears to be the external corners on the buttresses where I used the generally available quarter round plastic edging strip. The little vibration as the bi-fold door snaps shut has weaked the seal to this strip and let some water weep through. I have considered fixes (like sticking 1" plastic angle over the external coners with Evode Wet Grap) but in the end I found a 900 mm bi-fold door and a 900 mm square stone resin base at Primrose Bathrooms on (of all places) eBay. I now have both the new 900 mm door and the new 900 mm square base in my garage while I contemplate what to do next. Body building would be a good idea now I know just how heavy these items are but suffice it to say I am just a wee bit past my prime so I will have to enlist the young men in my family to assist with the lifting and lugging tasks.
I will outline what I am trying to do below.
I have upstairs the recessed shower alcove that has been recently refurbished with new tiles over an existing tray/basin.
This old basin was "fixed" in using BAL Flex Liquid and powder some 25+ years ago and that part of the job is still going strong so my experience with this BAL product led me to want to use it again.
I have bought the nominally 900 mm by 900 mm by 95 mm stone resin basin that is going to be a right shoe horn job to get into the recess, especially considering how heavy it is. The instructions that came with this new tray recommend an external grade 20 mm plywood base board and bedding the tray into mortar. I fancy 18 mm MDF for the base board and buttering the bottom of the tray and the top of the base board with BAL FastFlex and bedding into that. Then filling round the tray between the walls and the tray and continuing far enough up the walls to stick on a row of tiles to make good the vertical gap between the existing tiles on the wall and the new tray with more BAL FastFlex. Grout up nice and white - job done. Well that was my plan.
I have also read up on the BAL tanking system and wondered about using it but I am not starting from scratch and the leak proof service I have had, having done the old tray with BAL Flex speaks for its self and encourages me to do it the same way again.
I have wondered with BAL FastFlex, as a non-pro. if I would be able to work fast enough to be able to use it instead of the BAL Flex that I used all those years ago. I am thinking along the lines that if I mixed up smaller quantities at a time and did the job in stages I might be OK but for the best seal I think it would be better if it all set together as a whole.
I will have the wall tiles removed to a height of 260 mm above the existing floor level when I take the old tray out of the shower recess and intend to remove all the old floorboards so that I can sink my proposed 18 mm MDF baseboard in on to the tops of the wooden joists. (This being an upstairs shower) The recess walls will be close up to the new tray when it is in place with about 12.5 mm gaps to fill between tray and walls on all three sides of the recess.
I expect that the new tray is going to be a pig to get in with the limited access so if I could do it without the recommended mortar bed this would be a definite advantage.
Any advice other than call in a proffesional (but it might come to that before to long if I can find a good one locally) would be very much appreciated.
Sorry but I can never use ten words when a hundred will do! 😉
Regards,
Les.
Last edited by a moderator: