M
moomarine
So are you saying direct to screed then? I think it's because of the weight of the vehicles going onto the tiles.Why decouple if there's no UFH?
So are you saying direct to screed then? I think it's because of the weight of the vehicles going onto the tiles.Why decouple if there's no UFH?
Why decouple if there's no UFH?
So are you saying direct to screed then? I think it's because of the weight of the vehicles going onto the tiles.[/QUOTE
A decoupler is to protect against lateral movement, the screed expanding and contracting as it heats and cools, it wont make any difference with regards to the weight being applied from vehicles
That's fine to tile direct. I've tiled loads of car showrooms on both new and old screeds and never decoupled.So sorry to be a pain but I'm getting slightly confused now. Can I confirm that I am OK to just tile straight onto the SLC that is on top of sand and cement screed? The floor has no underfloor heating? It's just the weight of the cars that are a problem?
Ahh cheers for that I didn't read Bri's post properly! So it's just the heat when the membrane is required! So I quite alright to tile the porcelain onto the screed. The guy I'm doing it for bought the same tiles that a local car garage used for there show room, so they should be fine.That's fine to tile direct. I've tiled loads of car showrooms on both new and old screeds and never decoupled.
Not 100% but I would say about 2 weeks. I can find out though.How long has the screed been down?
Make sure that is fully cured before tiling. You can tile earlier by using either a green screed adhesive or a decoupler as a moisture barrier.Not 100% but I would say about 2 weeks. I can find out though.