Advice needed self levelling please :)

[Qwerty]

For small rooms I use a plastic plasterers float to move it to corners and spread it slightly, but on large areas I have made my own float out of CLS timber & batten. Works a treat. I also use a plastic spiked roller on odd occasions but use it less and less nowadays

 

[mma]

Nice racking!

 

[Stef]

The 250mm one I use,

 

[Andy Allen]

For small rooms I use a plastic plasterers float to move it to corners and spread it slightly, but on large areas I have made my own float out of CLS timber & batten. Works a treat. I also use a plastic spiked roller on odd occasions but use it less and less nowadays

Could you post a photo of your home made float...
Often thought of making one myself as I suffer from severe tightness. ...lol

 

[Andy Allen]

?????

 

[Qwerty]

No photo Andy......I chuck it in the skip after each job. It's just a two long lengths of CLS timber screwed together like a broom. Floats large areas of SLC perfectly. Have also used it in a small room without actually entering the room

 

[Andy Allen]

No photo Andy......I chuck it in the skip after each job. It's just a two long lengths of CLS timber screwed together like a broom. Floats large areas of SLC perfectly. Have also used it in a small room without actually entering the room

Ok mate I think I get your drift. ..
Maybe I should start a blue peter thread for all our homemade designs ..lol

 

[Qwerty]

[emoji1]

 

[Anto Holland]

Could you post a photo of your home made float...
Often thought of making one myself as I suffer from severe tightness. ...lol

I actually lay in bed thinking of how to make one of these myself last night haha.

 

[DJS]

I have found the levelling compounds that go upto 50mm do not run as well as the SLC that can be poured upto 30mm (my guess would be the manufacturers do not pulverise the ingredients into finer particles. So bigger particles do not run as well as the smaller ones). I use Mapei Reno screed everytime, as my supplier doesn't stock the Ultraplan ECO. And I always mix it just shy of the maximum amount of water recommended on the instuctions. Helps to flow, but not too much that it leaves a weak layer on the surface that needs to be sanded back.

If you want it mm perfect use the bays and runners method. Otherwise, I use my laser level to put a few 10mm sq mosaic tiles down on blobs of rapid set. They act as guide to run my 6ft feathered straight edge over, and can get the floor levelled to within british standards easily (3mm).

Avoid allowing air to blow over the poured SLC (so keep as many windows and doors closed as possible), as you do the pour. Once you finish the pour, open them up to allow moisture to disperse and evaporate. Also, shield it from direct sunlight, or it will set like a meringue when you put your spiked roller through it!! I also use an 18" bullnosed trowel to work it into the corners.

I also mix around 3-4 buckets at a time to get it down quicker. I also give each bucket a stir with my gauging trowel before pouring, to help air bubbles escape and to stop it from settling.

 

[Anto Holland]

I have found the levelling compounds that go upto 50mm do not run as well as the SLC that can be poured upto 30mm (my guess would be the manufacturers do not pulverise the ingredients into finer particles. So bigger particles do not run as well as the smaller ones). I use Mapei Reno screed everytime, as my supplier doesn't stock the Ultraplan ECO. And I always mix it just shy of the maximum amount of water recommended on the instuctions. Helps to flow, but not too much that it leaves a weak layer on the surface that needs to be sanded back.

If you want it mm perfect use the bays and runners method. Otherwise, I use my laser level to put a few 10mm sq mosaic tiles down on blobs of rapid set. They act as guide to run my 6ft feathered straight edge over, and can get the floor levelled to within british standards easily (3mm).

Avoid allowing air to blow over the poured SLC (so keep as many windows and doors closed as possible), as you do the pour. Once you finish the pour, open them up to allow moisture to disperse and evaporate. Also, shield it from direct sunlight, or it will set like a meringue when you put your spiked roller through it!! I also use an 18" bullnosed trowel to work it into the corners.

I also mix around 3-4 buckets at a time to get it down quicker. I also give each bucket a stir with my gauging trowel before pouring, to help air bubbles escape and to stop it from settling.

Allot of information there, thank you mate

 

[DJS]

No worries, I'm getting out of tiling so just want to pass on what I have learnt!

Also, don't forget to prime the floor. Not only does it help bond to the sub-floor, but it stops moisture from being sucked out of the SLC allowing extra setting time for it to find it's own level!

 

[Anto Holland]

No worries, I'm getting out of tiling so just want to pass on what I have learnt!

Also, don't forget to prime the floor. Not only does it help bond to the sub-floor, but it stops moisture from being sucked out of the SLC allowing extra setting time for it to find it's own level!

Ok thanks, how come your getting out of tiling?

 

[DJS]

See post #19 on this thread! And there's more to it than that, but I don't want to be hit with a paddle of retribution (reference to the fosters lager ad...lol)

http://www.tilersforums.com/43-tiling-forum/74498-what-have-you-been-up-lately-2.html

 

[Qwerty]

[emoji1]