Anhyfix fail on ditra matting

1. We've ever had a problem with Tilemaster adhesives.
2. We've never had a problem with Ditra.


@jcrtiling - Bal limestone is notorious for shading ( I won't use it anymore).
 
Surely your leaving yourselves open to guarantee issues if you don't use one suppliers products.
schluter/Dural don't make adhesive obviously so we're forced to use a different manufacturers products. I think a bit of common sense would keep you right here. We could do a test ourselves with different mats and different adhesives on different backgrounds and try to pull up at different times/stages and trust your findings 🙂
 
I've decided I must of had a bad bag or so of anhyfix.., tried it again from a different pile today and it was lovely, smooth, creamy and spread like a dream, pulled back the ditra and bingo... TOTAL COVERAGE!
They have batch numbers on the bags. Does anyone know how to decipher these please?

The first 6 digits of the batch number relate to the date manufactured and the last 2 digits are the batch that day. We keep a retained sample of all the batches we produce for six months so if anyone thinks there is an issue we can retest the retained sample. If anyone does feel that they have an issue with a product we take it has our duty to do a full specification test if you can give us the batch number. I was part of the team that tested Anhyfix with the de-coupling membranes and it came out top from all the adhesives we tested it with, and like Mark said it gained its bond over a couple of days.
 
Zero adhesion... I'm following schluters advice and going with the ardex. Can't remember the exact one... x7 I think. I will post the primer and adhesives tomorrow.

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Hi,
Looking at the anhydride screed on the picture the laytance hasn't been removed. If it's shiny then it's not scrubbed down enough.
Best way to prep the floor is to use a copper scrubbing disk or carbon stone pad on a floor cleaning machine to scarify the surface at least 1mm so you can see the poores of the screed. It should look like the edge of a plasterboard. Best to do it no longer then 1-2 weeks of screed going down or it's very deficit to scrub. The surface tends to harden over time.
Removing the laytance considerably reduces drying time.
Then use an airhydrometer available from Fball or make your own to check the floor is dry enough (85% relative humidity) before using any tiling primer 1-1 for first 2 coats then a neat coat. Primer must be dry before each coat.
If you follow these steps then you can tile straight onto the screed. No really need for decoupling mat. Not even on UFH screeds. Decoupling mat is a belt and braces approach. Use any S1-S2 type adhesive to fix tiles.
Main point is to make sure the screed is DRY.
 
I thought you were looking for a minimum 75% rh for tiling and i have a feeling that somebody who should know ( i think it might of been @Ajax123 ) said there was no evidence to support that by removing latence you decreased drying times
 
I thought you were looking for a minimum 75% rh for tiling and i have a feeling that somebody who should know ( i think it might of been @Ajax123 ) said there was no evidence to support that by removing latence you decreased drying times
Correct on both counts
 
The first 6 digits of the batch number relate to the date manufactured and the last 2 digits are the batch that day. We keep a retained sample of all the batches we produce for six months so if anyone thinks there is an issue we can retest the retained sample. If anyone does feel that they have an issue with a product we take it has our duty to do a full specification test if you can give us the batch number. I was part of the team that tested Anhyfix with the de-coupling membranes and it came out top from all the adhesives we tested it with, and like Mark said it gained its bond over a couple of days.
The bags have been burned on the fire so no way of finding out the batch numbers, although I did manage to take some photos of the problem mix against a good mix... the bad was really crumbly, weak and dull in colour against the good mix

IMG_2089.JPG IMG_2090.JPG
 
I thought you were looking for a minimum 75% rh for tiling and i have a feeling that somebody who should know ( i think it might of been @Ajax123 ) said there was no evidence to support that by removing latence you decreased drying times
I think it's that kind of subfloor that people have different methods of prepping the floor.
Everyone seems to raise an eyebrow when anhydride subfloor is mentioned.
For me it's just an educated observation regarding the laytance. If you were to seal the pores of any screed holding any moisture within, then it's going to take a long time for the moisture to escape. The Laytence on anhydride screed, imho is blocked pores.
 
I thought you were looking for a minimum 75% rh for tiling and i have a feeling that somebody who should know ( i think it might of been @Ajax123 ) said there was no evidence to support that by removing latence you decreased drying times
This is a quote from Bal's guide for tiling on anhydride screed

Laitance is a weak layer of fine particles deposited on the surface of the screed as the anhydrite cures. This layer is too weak to tile onto and can also inhibit drying of the screed. Many of the failures we see are as a result of contamination of the adhesive by laitance – highlighting the importance of carrying out this step.

They do also state 75% relative humidity, but Fball say it ok at 85% using their product.
 
@Ajax123 is an expert in this field as I believe he is a tech guy at a gypsum screed manufacturer therefore probably spent more time playing with these screeds than ball and bal put together . Also I haven't seen you quote anything about improved drying times apart from your own opinion . I have never fixed ceramic , porcelain or stone tiles using f.ball tile adhesives , have you ? As regards your other post maybe the floor is shiny because of the primer he has used .
 
The ball advice is old advice. Newer information independentlybtested tells usnthag actually the licence does not significantly affect drying especially when force drying with underfloor heating.

I guess it it were blocked pores we could get some clearasil on it...
 
@Ajax123 is an expert in this field as I believe he is a tech guy at a gypsum screed manufacturer therefore probably spent more time playing with these screeds than ball and bal put together . Also I haven't seen you quote anything about improved drying times apart from your own opinion . I have never fixed ceramic , porcelain or stone tiles using f.ball tile adhesives , have you ? As regards your other post maybe the floor is shiny because of the primer he has used .


Expert? Well I know a lot of stuff but still learning. Have been around these screeds for almost 20 years. Heard most of the rubbish spoken about them and there's been plenty of that over the years.
 
Expert? Well I know a lot of stuff but still learning. Have been around these screeds for almost 20 years. Heard most of the rubbish spoken about them and there's been plenty of that over the years.
What company do you work for
 
What company do you work for
Currently Francis Flower Ltd. Been here five years. We supply around 75% of the UK demand for flowing screeds and are by far the biggest anhydrtie supplier. Six years prior to that at Gyvlon, nearly 4 years at Lafarge as specialist screeds manager and 5 at a small independent supplier prior to that.
 

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