Discuss Batons, levels, trackers in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

James De

From a distance it looks reasonable, James but when you look at the windows, the trim and some of the lips, grout joints not lining up etc you soon realise that you have a lot to learn as to what would be considered acceptable.

You need to get things spot on in this game.

The large window reveal, small tile on the right. Did you really look at that after fixing and thing that was OK? You need to maintain your grout joints everywhere. No lips.
Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.

So all in all, to a seasoned pro it may be imperfect, but I’ll get there.
 
W

Waluigi

It’s not the fact that it is a small cut necessarily, it’s sticking out like a sore thumb. You can’t honestly say that is the best you could do.

Honestly, I’m not a Tiler myself but I started doing tiling jobs not far off 30 years ago as a Plumbers apprentice and hand on heart, I know I didnt walk away from a job looking like that.

I did however tile directly onto plasterboard in showers, with ready mixed so I was in no way perfect.

You need to up your game a bit, because you can’t leave stuff like that. Just being honest.
 
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Boggs

TF
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Not sure if you are doing the plumbing yourself but looking at those pushfit elbows under the bath, you need to make sure you have cleaned all the paint off so the o ring seals on the copper and not the paint. Won’t end well otherwise.
 
W

Waluigi

Get yourself some Foam board for the boxing in and twist the customers arm to get it tiled in.

98E41DFA-6433-4711-BC43-B9DC3FCA96E4.jpeg
 
B

Blunt Tool

Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.

So all in all, to a seasoned pro it may be imperfect, but I’ll get there.
If you are charging as a professional tiler then the customer should expect a first class job, no lips, set out right and no blaming other trades as to a less than perfect finish. If a wall is bumpy or squint then it’s up to the tiler to sort or inform customer to get sorted before carrying on. Maybe would be better to team up with an experienced professional tiler to gain essential experience.
 
W

Waluigi

I don’t see the lack of having a plasterer as a valid excuse. If the window sill or window reveal in general isn’t flat or level then you either get it flat and level before tiling or you tile the window sill to the highest point in the sill and then trowel some adhesive in and leave to set.

Same with the right hand side. Get your hammer and bolster and knock the plaster/S&C render off and make good. It’s part of the job.

You don’t start tiling until the walls are ready and you can achieve the right finish.
 

Boggs

TF
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Tiling is very much about the preparation you put in, all the hard work should be done behind the tiles.
Get that right and it’s easy really.

Have you tried local bathroom/kitchen companies to see if they would take you on?
I had someone very much like you come to me 5 years ago who had been on an intensive 2 week course and had very basic skills, but working with us he has turned into a really good, skilled tiler and I’m glad I took him on.

It will take time but if you carry on producing work to this standard there will come a time when someone won’t be fobbed off by excuses and won’t pay the bill.
And trust me those days really hurt!
 
W

Waluigi

Depends on the room. Small rooms like Bathrooms where your line of sight on the expansion joint is higher up, I believe you can get away with what looks like a smaller Silicon bead on the joint. It can be exactly the same size gap as if you were cutting the floor to the wall but it appears smaller due to your perspective.
 
T

Time's Ran Out

If you are charging as a professional tiler then the customer should expect a first class job, no lips, set out right and no blaming other trades as to a less than perfect finish. If a wall is bumpy or squint then it’s up to the tiler to sort or inform customer to get sorted before carrying on. Maybe would be better to team up with an experienced professional tiler to gain essential experience.

I’ve been saying this for years!
 

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