Concrete panels on bathroom walls?

[Jonathanb]

Hi, my first post on here. I am looking at fitting thin concrete panels on my bathroom and shower wall. Has any one used them before?
The ones I was looking at are either Concreate or https://livingconcrete.co.uk/concrete-panels
The livingconcrete type say you can use them on a wall by fixing with tile adhesive but not much more imformation.
The Concreate say they need to be glued to the wall, but does not mention if they can be fitted with tile adhesive, spacers and grout.
P.s I’m not a tiler, I’m a carpenter
Cheers
John.

 

[Jonathanb]

All I’m going to do is but a bead of CT1 on all the framework for the ply to build it out 1mm then screws when dry. Then use 19mm kerdi board around it.

John

 

[Old Mod]

Are we gonna get into a fight over 1mm thicker Kerdi board Jerry?
Plasterboard is the same.
Others are 20mm.
2mm is not that much of a stretch is it?
It’s typically PB that surrounds it anyway mae.

All I’m going to do is but a bead of CT1 on all the framework for the ply to build it out 1mm then screws when dry. Then use 19mm kerdi board around it.

John

or you can just skim out the ply with 1mm of adhesive day before fixing.

 

[Old Mod]

Or..... if you’re doing floors then you’ll need a 1mm antifracture mat anyway.
Stick a piece of that over the ply.
You can’t use Ditra, don’t know if you’ve even mentioned floors. Sorry can’t remember, ain’t got time to read back atm.

 

[Dumbo]

Are we gonna get into a fight over 1mm thicker Kerdi board Jerry?
Plasterboard is the same.
Others are 20mm.
2mm is not that much of a stretch is it?
It’s typically PB that surrounds it anyway mae.

or you can just skim out the ply with 1mm of adhesive day before fixing.

Firstly we are not going to get in a fight for two reasons
1 im a nine stone weakling and easily intimidated.
And
2 the first one again.
But on a serious note i am not trying to catch you out or anything like that i ask because i understand that doing these tiles is technically demanding and if im faced with them i want to give myself the best possible chance of success . So sorry if i sound anal sometimes but it has saved me a lot of grief in the past .

 

[Old Mod]

Firstly we are not going to get in a fight for two reasons
1 im a nine stone weakling and easily intimidated.
And
2 the first one again.
But on a serious note i am not trying to catch you out or anything like that i ask because i understand that doing these tiles is technically demanding and if im faced with them i want to give myself the best possible chance of success . So sorry if i sound anal sometimes but it has saved me a lot of grief in the past .

Got no problem with questions Jerry, you of all people should know that.
Yes this work is demanding, but personally I feel the main reason that it is, is because firstly the tolerances we work to far exceed BS and secondly the job has to be carried out to the letter of the law, otherwise they fail, whereas with regular 10-12mm porc they’re so much more forgiving and ultimately only fail because of incompetence.
There’s no room for incompetence with what I do.
The phrase “it maybe ok” doesn’t exist, it works or it doesn’t.
So you’re right to ask questions, without a doubt, but it’s also your personal experience that gets you thro.
As no one has all the answers yet, just best guesses. the product is still in its infancy.
But where as you can bend rules with regular porc, with this product, you can’t.
And besides, common sense from an installers point of view still goes a long way.

 

[Jonathanb]

Ah well now going on the training day at Porcel-thin. Going with my mate who’s a bathroom fitter

John..

 

[Old Mod]

Ah well now going on the training day at Porcel-thin. Going with my mate who’s a bathroom fitter

John..

Good for you John.

Great bunch of people, Ray is a great laugh and extremely knowledgeable.
Just don’t let your mate say “ I’ve been Tiling for ....... ....,, yrs, and I know what I’m doing!”
God help him if he does.

Watch and listen carefully and you’ll do just fine.

And of course come back and tell us how you got on.

 

[Jonathanb]

I will warn him 10 hour round trip in a day should be fun...

John..

 

[Old Mod]

I will warn him

Rays a 30yr hard core contract tiler, he’ll eat your mate alive, you’ll enjoy watching it tho!

Yeah long day that one.

 

[Jonathanb]

Bathroom wall tiles all stripped off. Most of the walls are paramount which the plaster on them has remained intact.
Putting a straight edge across the walls, non are flat. About a 8mm gap over a 1.8m straight edge. Can I use 12mm or 9mm Kerdi board dot and dabbed on the walls to flatten them, then fix them with cavity fixings.
The tiles I’m going to be using are 1200x600 Porcel-thin.

Cheers
John..

 

[Old Mod]

Having never had to deal with these paramount boards, my knowledge is more than limited.
Is it not possible to remove only the bathroom side and insert studwork in its place?
With 300 centres you can fix a 12mm board direct to stud work.
I know it’s probably a large amount of work, but I wouldn’t want to be dot and dabbing over plaster. It has a very low bonding strength to plaster board, of only 20kgm2, if you attempt to dot and dab more boards on to it and then add the weight of tile and adhesive, I’d imagine you would soon surpass its limit.
A porcel thin tile and adhesive is the wrong side of 12kgs, and it’s only 0.72m2

 

[Jonathanb]

I was going to take one side down on the main wall as I was expecting it to be damaged removing the tiles. The problem now is the head and sole plate don’t run straight, if I remove them the wall will collapse.
Also it’s all the walls, one has a combinboiler on the opposite side
I was thinking of dot and dabbing it with about twice as many dabs as standard then a cavity fixing through every one
I suppose I could pull the one side down on the main wall add stud work then fit the Kerdi board on to the studs with tile adhesive to straighten it, then use screws and washers.
John..

 

[Old Mod]

You need as little deflection as possible. Thin tile bends a great deal, and must be well supported.
Bedding the tiles out is not an option.
Thinking again about it, maybe your first idea may be a better route, it would certainly add ridgidty to the wall, as long as you’re confident you can make it structurally sound and that the whole thing won’t pull away from the head and foot plate.

 

[Jonathanb]

I wasn’t going to bed the tiles out, I was going to bed the Kerdi board out on the stud work.
I’m sure tile adhesive and masses of cavity fixings will work

John..

 

[Jonathanb]

Went on the course, left at 5am, got back 9:30 pm.. now started putting things back together.
Marked all the holes for the cavity fixings and put them all in.

John