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Discuss Decoupler and anhydrite in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
Why have weber got it in their "Tile Fixing Solutions" book that u can go over a sealed Anhydrite screed with almost all of the cement based addys?? I know you & Dave have tried a few different addys for this screed. Cheers folks.
I take it this screed is going to be the way forward in terms it will probably replace a cement based screed?
This has been a nightmare for us so far & its just goin to keep getting worse, i would love to wipe my hands of it but my partner has worked for this guy for 14/15 years so its not as easy as just walking away.
The only good thing will be that we can walk away from this with our reputation still intact as we are dealing with him direct.
How hard is it to get the old adhesive up from an Anhydrite screed? Gypsum & Cement based addys? Worst case scenario we go back for the repair in 2/3 months time, by that time it will be dry.
I guess its the way forward until something else comes along. I hear a few major house builders will be using it as standard from January.
I also wonder how we will get on when a few years down the line and you turn up at a house to tile the floor and you don't know for sure if its Anhydrite/Gyvlon or normal screed ? What about when there are 2 differing screeds ie original sand and cement from an old house and teh extension they have just had built is Gyvlon ?? gotta be 2 adhesives ?
I have had 4 Gyvlon screed floors offered to me in the last 2 months, One I turned down due to the client being very uncooperative when I voiced my concerns, he wanted it done right but did not want to wait or be inconvenienced at all.
It would be great if we all lived in an ideal world where everyone listened to each others concerns & advise & we went about jobs by the letter of the law!!! aye we all wish.
Sir Ramic you have a very good point there, i know very little about Gyvlon screeds, only what i have read on posts here, & it sounds a bit of a headache also.
We are running 3 sites just now but we havent heard anyone speak about new screeds yet. at least with these posts we will be prepared for if & when it does come.
I will keep you posted when this job goes belly up!!:nopity:
The builder who has had these 3 floors I am about to tile knew nothing of the concerns of floor layers regarding the Gyvlon. he went along with what the screeder suggested. Its early days for us all but we all need to know the score, the internet and forums like this are one of the best ways of keeping on top of things.
Totally agree with you there, This forum is worth its weight in gold, No matter how long you been at it theres always something to learn.
what is the optimum depth for a gyvlon screed Al?Robson. If you use cement it WILL fail. If you use gypsum it MIGHT fail. If you use cement it will delaminate along with the tile thus leaving the tiles un useable. I have never seen a failure with a gypsum day yet but my understanding is that the failure due to moisture is at the tile addy interface. This means that the tiles would come away clean and be reusable. Not sure if this is true or not. This job could be the way to find out though cos sure as eggs is eggs if you tile it next week it won't be dry. The underfloor heating should also be commissioned. This one seems doomed. The trouble for you is that as a professional you are accepting a contract and carrying out an installation that you know to be incorrect. A disclaimer may not cover you and you could end up liable for the inevitable repairs. My personal advice ........ as a self confessed anhydrite expert....... Walk away from it or do it properly. At 70mm which itself is far too deep you will be looking at two months.
I certainly hope anhydrite is the way forward...... My livelihood certainly depends on it. Robson, you can always ring me at work if you need some advice 07545 932723
any chance of having that in english Al??:lol::lol:As close to the minimum depth as possible.40mm floating commercial unheated35mm floating domestic unheated30mm cover to heating pipes so 45mm on 15 mm ugh pipe and 50mm on 20mm pipes30mm unbonded25mm bondedAnything more is un necessary but screeners are often forced to put more in by poor specifications and poor building quality.
Then sadly you would be making a mistake.........no offense intended. The screed dries purely by evaporation from it's surface. Covering it with an impermeable covering would stop it drying......you coul put a breathable carpet down. It would be best though to commission the heating and force dry the screed over the next two or three weeks then tile it using a gypsum addyAl, thanks very much for that, we will see the boss tomorrow morning & see how he wants to go about this. Talking to my business partner today & told him all about this scenario, we are going to try & talk him into putting down linolium for the time being then we will go back & tile once the floor has fully dried out. :mad2: (this is what i will be doing)
Then sadly you would be making a mistake.........no offense intended. The screed dries purely by evaporation from it's surface. Covering it with an impermeable covering would stop it drying......you coul put a breathable carpet down. It would be best though to commission the heating and force dry the screed over the next two or three weeks then tile it using a gypsum addy
I'm up for that Dave. Just let me know when.Commissioning the screed is the quickest way.. These screeds are going no where, so get to know them and you will be fine..We need to get some more training days sorted..
Force drying is actually a recommendation. Take a look at some of the tech data sheets at Lafarge Gyvlon Anhydrite based Calcium Sulphate Flowing Screed. That would help you a bit. The one on drying a gyvlon screed section 3 gives you the procedure but alter it slightly so that you maintain the highest temperature for 7 days instead of just three. No reason to expect it to crack.Any chance of doin a course up in sunny Ayrshire? ha. i would like to attend a course on this especially if its goin to get more common as a screed.I take it anhydrite will not crack if you force dry it then? would a dehumidifier also help? need all the info i can get so i can show him this tomorrow.
If he don't listen put him in touch with me and I shall talk him through it as a suppliers technical managerCheers folks, if i show him all this then maybe he will realise that its a good idea to wait."ALL GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT"
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