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Discuss Ditra on Anhydrite in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.
D
DHTiling
It's because some tilers are frightened of the word anhydrite .
. Do it right first time and they are easy.
B
bugs183
No moisture testing Mark?
People ask as it's their business and they will be held responcible. These floors still have failures for all sorts of reasons, so i think it is prudent to ask, maybe a new product has appeared on the scene that this fella doesn't know about.
Until the tiling community have complete faith then you guys are going to have to put up with questions.
Has anyone come to a definitive answer to what to fix Ditra onto anhydrite yet?
M
Mark S
Bugs, of course test for moisture, its sometimes taken it for granted that this is a standard procedure.
Not a problem the questions being asked, I'd rather someone asks than plows straight in regardless.
There is a lot of development work going on to make gypsum compatibile adhesives, levellers etc, as these are launched etc we will put the info/data sheets on the forum.
I would much rather people understood and felt happier about tiling on anhydrite screeds
Not a problem the questions being asked, I'd rather someone asks than plows straight in regardless.
There is a lot of development work going on to make gypsum compatibile adhesives, levellers etc, as these are launched etc we will put the info/data sheets on the forum.
I would much rather people understood and felt happier about tiling on anhydrite screeds
T
The D
lmfaoit's because some tilers are frightened of the word anhydrite .
Do it right first time and they are easy.
B
bugs183
No offence Mark, and i agree with all the points you make here, but your previous post could be considered quite condescending towards the subject, it could just be me, but us tilers are sensitive souls! The thread is about checking out what to do and how to go about things, and you just batted the question away like we are idiots for still asking, see what i mean?? The two statements look like they could've been written by two different people.
I'm not here to start a row, i just think that as guys ARE still worried here, you fells really need to respect this and be aware that sweeping statements to experienced tradesmen here could ruffle a few feathers.
Many tilers still feel they are in the firing line, and still don't feel comfortable about the whole Anhydrite system and it's compatibility with the job it's supposed to be doing.
problem is Dave as I see it there has been so much rubbish spoken about these screeds in the past that people still have difficulty in sorting fact from fallacy. It is changing slowly as more tilers get more contact with the screeds as they become increasingly popular. As you say you have spent a lot of time looking at them and I have had many conversations with you about them in the past. That information has made you comfortable but many tilers still need reassurance but often get it from the wrong place. It is as you say though very simple generally as long as you follow the steps outlined in the flowchart posted atelier in the thread.
Dont know if this one is a heated screed or not but bear in mind if it is the steps mus include commissioning the heating system and as its trav an uncoupling membrane should be used.
my personal opinion is that you should avoid cement based adhesives on the screed and use a gypsum compatible adhesive to stick down the membrane. Then use a flexible cement based addy to stick the tiles to the mat.
B
bugs183
Hey Ajax!
Quote: my personal opinion is that you should avoid cement based adhesives on the screed and use a gypsum compatible adhesive to stick down the membrane. Then use a flexible cement based addy to stick the tiles to the mat.
This is the first time i seen any screed rep actually recommend this method, is this now common theory for these screeds for applying an uncoulping membrane, or just your personal opinion, i was uncertain as to the stance companies such as Schluter take on it, but i've always thought it was the best overall solution. The gypsum is compatible with the screed and the cement above is compatible with the tiles, especially porcelain.
I always uncouple over under floor heated screeds, wether stone or porcelain, i've seen 20mm thick stone broken by movement in doorways where the customer/builder refused to install control joints or use an uncoulpling membrane.
That method will satisfy the tilers, now we just need to get the screeders to put the expansion joints in the doorways as required, i've tiled a number of these screeds and not seen any joints added between doorways ever!!
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Quote: my personal opinion is that you should avoid cement based adhesives on the screed and use a gypsum compatible adhesive to stick down the membrane. Then use a flexible cement based addy to stick the tiles to the mat.
This is the first time i seen any screed rep actually recommend this method, is this now common theory for these screeds for applying an uncoulping membrane, or just your personal opinion, i was uncertain as to the stance companies such as Schluter take on it, but i've always thought it was the best overall solution. The gypsum is compatible with the screed and the cement above is compatible with the tiles, especially porcelain.
I always uncouple over under floor heated screeds, wether stone or porcelain, i've seen 20mm thick stone broken by movement in doorways where the customer/builder refused to install control joints or use an uncoulpling membrane.
That method will satisfy the tilers, now we just need to get the screeders to put the expansion joints in the doorways as required, i've tiled a number of these screeds and not seen any joints added between doorways ever!!
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Hey Ajax!
Quote: my personal opinion is that you should avoid cement based adhesives on the screed and use a gypsum compatible adhesive to stick down the membrane. Then use a flexible cement based addy to stick the tiles to the mat.
This is the first time i seen any screed rep actually recommend this method, is this now common theory for these screeds for applying an uncoulping membrane, or just your personal opinion, i was uncertain as to the stance companies such as Schluter take on it, but i've always thought it was the best overall solution. The gypsum is compatible with the screed and the cement above is compatible with the tiles, especially porcelain.
I always uncouple over under floor heated screeds, wether stone or porcelain, i've seen 20mm thick stone broken by movement in doorways where the customer/builder refused to install control joints or use an uncoulpling membrane.
That method will satisfy the tilers, now we just need to get the screeders to put the expansion joints in the doorways as required, i've tiled a number of these screeds and not seen any joints added between doorways ever!!
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no it's not common theory but if its a heated screed and its travertine the British standard recommends uncoupling regardless of the screed type.
Ah right. Well no that is a personal opinion based on technical appraisal and experience tinged with a dose of common sense.
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bugs183
Your quite right!
It's a shame we can't get Schluter to go along with it as well, it would make all this much better for everyone!!!
Anyway, pub time!
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