Yes, go over your floor with the straight edge and mark out the dips first, its hard to tell from a picture how bad your highs and lows are, it was flat in the first place so surely cant be that bad..
OP, the longer the straight edge the better because if you use a smaller stright edge, you might think youve a bump but infact its actually a dip and can make it worse. Ive seen before some tilers chasing their tale filling with slc rather than removing a bump with a grinding disk.
What Andy is saying is to pour the slc down and lay the straight edge on the floor and drag it over it so it essentially drags all the slc and it will fill the low spots.
Your second pour looks better but it doesn't look like you have used the spiked roller a lot!
Where you get the tidal lines they are the areas you really want to be rollering
OP, the longer the straight edge the better because if you use a smaller stright edge, you might think youve a bump but infact its actually a dip and can make it worse. Ive seen before some tilers chasing their tale filling with slc rather than removing a bump with a grinding disk.
Grinding disks and ufh cables won't end well, if there's a gap under the straight edge it needs filling. Mp3 has never leveled a floor before and the first attempt using the spiked roller didn't go too well, so what's the point in going through all that again. Imo after marking all the dips out a long straight edge is the best chance he's got at getting this floor tileable..
Grinding disks and ufh cables won't end well, if there's a gap under the straight edge it needs filling. Mp3 has never leveled a floor before and the first attempt using the spiked roller didn't go too well, so what's the point in going through all that again. Imo after marking all the dips out a long straight edge is the best chance he's got at getting this floor tileable..
