Discuss I'm Stuck - Wish My Tiles Were in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

M

My dog's called Trevor

Matt, I admire your patience. As has been said already, your builder has done a shockingly bad job, the worst I have seen. You also seem to know what needs to be done, a total rip-out ( at the builders expense). You have paid to have your floor tiled correctly, and that's what you should expect. His remedial works are getting more and more bizarre, and will never cure the huge problems that are clearly evident with your floor

Thanks
Another vote for s redo
Matt
 
M

My dog's called Trevor

That's some bad do do.
All depending on your budget, and wether your builder would pay for it , if it was me I'd try and keep the kitchen in, every bloke on here has tiled a floor a with kitchen in , it is doable and certainally not a bodge job as long as its prepped right.
not the best pics but this was tiled with the island and kitchen in, granite work tops ect, and these were 1200x600 :) View attachment 73128 View attachment 73129

I'm sure it's possible and less upheaval
Thanks
 
M

My dog's called Trevor

Im surprise your builder hasn't run a mile by now thats the normal reponse from them when things go belly up.
How do you think he's going to take your request to start again?
Does he admit he's dropped a massive boo boo or is he trying to blame other things to worm his way out..

Andy
He's admitted its been a **** up - sort of had to when the tiles started knocking. Staying a bit quiet on bare UFH cable.
A request to get it all up with kitchen out if needed will go down badly but I think he'll start to realise he's not really in a position to have an opinion. His options will be to comply, get another opinion (and then comply), or walk away in which case he'll need chasing.
Hasn't got a leg to stand on if he disputes the request. The adhesive used doesn't stick to porcelain. The stuff he thought he used says on the bag (I'm stood next to it) that floor tiles must be laid on a solid bed. The UHF instructions say level with SLC then solid bed. Any how to do it DIY website or a leaflet from B+Q tells you what's wrong here.Then there's all the opinions posted here.
Who'd carry on arguing? Hope he won't.
Cheers
Matt
 

widler

TF
Esteemed
Arms
2,334
1,328
England
My use of that word was very loose wider...Maybe I should have chose a better term.

Clarity on tiling options in moving forward would be available after a site visit.

Im your job above... Did you have to remove an old floor... Any slc around the island?

:) was not a dig at you cam .
But we have all had to rip floors up with kitchens in and re do them, not every job is a nice empty flat square room ;)
Im just trying to give the chap options , which will give him a good job without ripping everything out, unless this bloke is a upstanding human and coughs up over 20 grand matt will be out of pocket , A LOT :(
As for my job, no ripping out, it was tiled by myself over ten years ago, nigh on 70m2, no kitchen in when tiled 1st ,the bloke tried taking one up, was solid as a rock, so we matted with .85 tilemaster matting and tiled in porcelthin so it didnt raise it to much
 
M

My dog's called Trevor

:) was not a dig at you cam .
But we have all had to rip floors up with kitchens in and re do them, not every job is a nice empty flat square room ;)
Im just trying to give the chap options , which will give him a good job without ripping everything out, unless this bloke is a upstanding human and coughs up over 20 grand matt will be out of pocket , A LOT :(
As for my job, no ripping out, it was tiled by myself over ten years ago, nigh on 70m2, no kitchen in when tiled 1st ,the bloke tried taking one up, was solid as a rock, so we matted with .85 tilemaster matting and tiled in porcelthin so it didnt raise it to much

Definitely all sensible options (no jam or squirrels) will still be for consideration and the pulling up around the units is possibly an option. Not fussed if the tiling under cupboards is crap - won't see them until my missus wants another kitchen. Just thinking how much easier if kitchen dismantled and stored. No cutting under units. Units won't be covered in crap (don't give me dust sheets, they never work). At the concrete end there're big bifold doors with barely a lip above the floor. Level a bit tight here and to relay floor the adhesive sticking the insulation boards may need hacking or grinding off. This was a bed with a notched trowel so he's obviously heard of that quaint method. All going to be easier without working round and under things.
The 20 grand figure is what I'd be looking at if its not done right now and there's a disaster in a few years and a similar kitchen needs to be put in. That would be if the floor failed and had to come up, an end panel or two got damaged and couldn't be replaced. The stone cost just shy of two grand fitted and might, just might, be removable. The kitchen fitting was another two so unlikely to be much more than four to take down and put back up. New UFH and insulation is about one grand. Most of the tiles should be reusable. Don't know what it'd cost to put in an expansion joint (is that a case of cutting down between the membrane and the timber and putting in rubber or Silicon?). Then there's the cost of one of you gentlemen to do the work (don't think he'll like that but would you have him do it again?). Reckon it'll be well under 10 grand. His fee was 50 for all the work he did. I don't know his margins but He had hardly any
 
M

My dog's called Trevor

Definitely all sensible options (no jam or squirrels) will still be for consideration and the pulling up around the units is possibly an option. Not fussed if the tiling under cupboards is crap - won't see them until my missus wants another kitchen. Just thinking how much easier if kitchen dismantled and stored. No cutting under units. Units won't be covered in crap (don't give me dust sheets, they never work). At the concrete end there're big bifold doors with barely a lip above the floor. Level a bit tight here and to relay floor the adhesive sticking the insulation boards may need hacking or grinding off. This was a bed with a notched trowel so he's obviously heard of that quaint method. All going to be easier without working round and under things.
The 20 grand figure is what I'd be looking at if it's not done right now and there's a disaster in a few years and a similar kitchen needs to be put in. That would be if the floor failed and had to come up, an end panel or two got damaged and couldn't be replaced. The stone cost just shy of two grand fitted and might, just might, be removable. The kitchen fitting was another two so unlikely to be much more than four to take down and put back up. New UFH and insulation is about one grand. Most of the tiles should be reusable. Don't know what it'd cost to put in an expansion joint (is that a case of cutting down between the membrane and the timber and putting in rubber or Silicon?). Then there's the cost of one of you gentlemen to do the work (don't think he'll like that but would you have him do it again?). Reckon it'll be well under 10 grand. His fee was 50 for all the work he did. I don't know his margins but He had hardly any

(Keep hitting post by mistake) hardly any labour and other than steels and velux windows, and roof tiles and lead, he was paying only for basic building materials.
So if he only made 20 grand on the job or 15 even, if it costs him say 7 or 8 to put it right he's still made something. Appreciate he's got to eat and put diesel in the van and what not but he won't actually be out of pocket.
 

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I'm Stuck - Wish My Tiles Were
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Australia Tiling Forum
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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

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