Discuss Major Problem!!! in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

Tedd

Hi Everyone,

New to the forum but need advice on an issue I am having and apologise for the length. I was contracted to tile a floating floor through lounge/dining/kitchen on a 1900-1920 house. The owner wanted the tiles (31 x 31 Granite) with no grount lines, whch we refused to do so under duress agreed to use 2mm grout lines. The joiner who also seemed to be project managing the job sais he would take care of all the prep and the floors would be flat as a pancake on our arrival. As there was alot of work (2 wet room and a bathroom also) we took booked 3 weeks to do the job. On arrival to start work he was just starting to ply the floor so we had to wait for him to finish, after which there was a deflection of about 10mm were the lounge and dining room met. This was self levelled to avoid any delays with the work. A couple of tiles had to be removed as they had chipped as building work was still going on despit us tiling and sealing the floor, the day we turned up to grout they fitted a floating fireplace in the chimney breast and knocked seven bells of WORD REMOVED out of it. At the end of the job we had to replace 3 tiles which we smashed with a hammer and chisel occasionally using a sds on low speed with a tile removal bit. We replaced these and grouted no problem.

4-6 weeks later a crack has appeared which has not broke the surface of the tile but you can see in the light. We were called in and we were blamed for using the sds to remove some adhesive/tiles. Subsequently an investigation was carried out by an independant firm who discovered the following:

1) in the area where the self levelling was used there was a 4mm deflection over 1.2m
2)the ply used was 12mm marine ply fixed at 200 to 300mm centres overboarded over the floorboards.
3)The ply was fixed butt jointed
4)There was insufficient adhesive in one corner of the tile raised
His conclusion was that lack of screws, inadequate adhesive coverage,
vibration from sds and primarily the defection under the weight of tiles,adhesive,ply and self levelling was the cause.

The adesive manufacturer came out and recorded:
1)insuficcient adhesive in the corner of the lifted tile
2)The crack in the tilesis runs parallel with the joint of the ply and that there was no movement joint where the ply met.

The tile shop manager came out and recorded:
1) The crack ran along the joint where the two plywood sheets met.

The house owner is now seeking legal advice and wanting to go to court. The Joiner has stated that his bum is covered because he followed british standards to the latter and so it is not his fault and that he raised concerns with me at the start on whether he should replace the joists and put in herringbone strutts (i am a tiler not a structural engineer) to which I replied that it was not necessary (the conversation never took place. I now have to prepare myself for the impending court battle and would be helpful of any information possible.

Regards,

Ted
 
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C

Colour Republic

2)the ply used was 12mm marine ply fixed at 200 to 300mm centres overboarded over the floorboards......

...The Joiner has stated that his bum is covered because he followed british standards to the latter

Is he sure about that?? I mean how sure? Maybe he wants to check again :lol:
 
G

grumpygrouter

I can see this getting messy...BS for overboarding is min 15mm WBP, but Weber quote min 18mm for their adhesive on new ply!! Oh the joys....!!!

Weber spec given below.

Wooden floors​
Ensure the floor is rigid and capable ofsupporting the expected load with minimaldeflection. Brace any areas that need extra​
support with noggins between the joists.


New WBP plywood floors should be aminimum of 18 mm thick and all jointsmust be adequately supported.Tongued and grooved timber and chipboardmust be over-boarded. Existing boardsshould be screwed down to joists with 2screws at each end and another 2 whereverthey cross joists/noggins. For small floorswith no noticeable deflection 9 mmplywood or suitable tile backer board can beused to provide a smooth surface to tile. Ifthere is some limited deflection, a minimumof 15 mm WBP plywood or equivalent tilebacker board should be used to increase therigidity of the floor. If there is still noticeablemovement in the floor, another layer ofplywood or tile backer board may be needed.New plywood boards should be primed on thereverse face and edges with
weber PR360 andscrewed down every 200 – 300 mm. Slightgaps should be left between boards and atthe perimeter for expansion. These should be filled with weber SL450 Silicon sealant.
 
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T

Tabby Cranks

I hate seeing stuff like Limited deflection and Noticeable deflection. Sounds very ambiguos to me. If I read that right Weber say a 9mm overlay is fine, the carpenter has used 12mm so you're ok there. Now you'll need to determine what is limited or noticable deflection. Is it noticable once the tiles start cracking???
 
C

charlie1

Hi Tabby,

This is a suspended floor then not a floating floor. BS is 15mm, however sovergn adhesives advise 12mm ply minimum .I think!

I fear though, you, as the tiler are responsible for the integrity of the preparation of the subfloor prior to tiling! As said before, this looks messy, did you get anything written down? or all just verbal?
 
T

Tedd

Yes it is a suspended timber floor, everything was done on a verbal and no specs were written down and given to the joiner/project manager. We told him to use 18mm as 15mm is too hard to get hold of. His argument is that if the report says that the floor joists are not taking the weight then 18mm ply wood be even worse because of the extra weight.

He has said that all the specs we gave to him on a verbal but we did not, and it is his word against ours. The crack is only noticable in the light as if the joist has dropped and is pulling the tiles down with it, if you run your finger along it you can not feel any crack as such. He has now reported the same is happening in the dining room (it is open plan) and we did not use the sds in there, it also has happened along another joist at the other side of the room under the sofa and we didn't use it on that side of the room. The tiles are stuck down like the proverbial to a blanket and is the only reason we used the sds on low speed with chisel bit along with hammer and bolster to get them up.

How do I post a photo?

Regards,

Ted
 
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