Porcelain Wall Tiles

[len]

removing the tiles was the correct move. If your tiles are within the weight limit then go with Bal APD as suggested by Grumpy. It is specifically formulated to allow the use of cement adhesives on plaster. As far as i know the same cannot be said of Bal Bond. Alternatively ,stripping the plaster back to the cement render is a better option

 

[DHTiling]

BAL Bond SBR

A waterbased polymer with a wide variety of uses in the construction industry, particularly as an admixture and bonding agent for cement and concrete applications. Once cured, the polymer is water and frost resistant. BAL BOND SBR can be used as a slurry coat when mixed with hydraulic cement or gypsum plaster, as a multi-purpose admixture for cement:sand mortars, concrete and gypsum plaster; as a brush applied primer, sealer or dustproofer.

Suitable for use on cement:sand screeds, toppings or renderings, plastering, waterproofing, bonding, concrete repair, priming and sealing.


BAL Prime APD

A modified acrylic polymer dispersion for use as a primer for a variety of backgrounds/bases prior to fixing ceramic tiles, mosaics and natural stone and prior to the application of levelling compound and the BAL WP1 TANKING SYSTEM. BAL PRIME APD isolates products containing calcium sulphate such as gypsum plaster and anhydrite screeds from cement-based adhesives, thus minimising the risk of reaction between the two materials.

Also suitable for use on cement:sand rendering, blockwork, plasterboard, cement:sand screeds and timber. It also provides surface strength to friable surfaces and reduces the porosity of porous backgrounds/bases, thus preventing the formation of air bubbles and prolonging the flow time with levelling compounds and extending the open time of tile adhesives. The primer is blue in colour to help ensure that a complete and even coating is obtained.


hope this helps.....

 

[len]

oh dear,beg to differ Dave.
BAL PRIME APD isolates products containing calcium sulphate such as gypsum plaster and anhydrite screeds from cement-based adhesives, thus minimising the risk of reaction between the two materials.

Did my homework before posting,and came to the conclusion that Bal Bond,despite being such a versatile product which does just about everything,does not include the above service in its repertoire.Not a mention of it

 

[Perry]

Mark not sure about the cutters have never used them, think Lens got it about right pick one up not easy to throw about on wet cutters dont forget to butter the backs as Dave surgested good luck Pete

 

[len]

oh dear,beg to differ Dave.
BAL PRIME APD isolates products containing calcium sulphate such as gypsum plaster and anhydrite screeds from cement-based adhesives, thus minimising the risk of reaction between the two materials.

Did my homework before posting,and came to the conclusion that Bal Bond,despite being such a versatile product which does just about everything,does not include the above service in its repertoire.Not a mention of it

GOT TO MAKE A RETRACTION ON THIS. Spoke to BAL Tech. today. Bal Bond IS suitable as a plaster primer for cement based adhesives, it states so in the first sentence on the back of the bottle.
They are aware that they have omitted it from their spec. sheet.
APD though still suitable for the job, is now the primer for their WPI tanking and for priming bare floorboards to prevent them from warping as the adhesive sets.

 

[DHTiling]

..............

 

[guy1976]

for tiles that big you will probably need to wet cut all of them unless you have a rubi tx1200 radial cutter the wall will also need to be totally flat for that size tile i would use a 18mm u shape notch trowel or a 10mm u notch trowel and trowel the walls and back butter the tile.

 

[penno]

You have recieved some great advice so far mate but i think it may be a little too much for you (no offense meant). Having never laid porcelain before and then be faced with 1sqm tiles on a first attempt i would steer well clear, i really would. It could turn into a nightmare dealing with pocas that size but if you do get the job done hope it all goes well mate.

 

[Perry]

i have used a bench saw when i have laid them and thats on a floor i think you would have to use a grinder on some cuts as i said they are not easy to throw around

 

[mwss77]

Hi Penno
Thanks for your honesty, i have only been tiling for 2 months and this would be the first time I would deal with porcelain.

I have been wondering if this job would be too much for me so early on. What would you recommend if I do come across porcelain tiles again with another customer. Are the smaller porc tiles okay for me to go ahead with or do I need to take a course that deals with this type of tile??

Thanks

 

[grumpygrouter]

It is not the "Porcelain" that is the problem, it is the sheer size of the tile that Penno being cautious about. Smaller porcelain tiles are generally no more difficult than normal ceramics, bit harder to cut and a bit heavier, but the principles are the same, as long as you use adhesives and grouts suitable for porcelain.

To try to fix 1m2 tiles is a task indeed, to add porcelain into the mix makes the task that much more difficult. Each tile must weigh something like 25 to 30kg and when you come to cutting them what are you going to cut them on? They may well be curved as well because of the size!

I have been tiling about 9 months and I don't think I would take on a job such as that yet. I don't have the machinery to do it and I would be looking to enrol a"helper" if it was me.

If you take on the job, good luck, let us know how you get on.

Grumpy

 

[Fred]

Did 87 m2 porcelain wall tiles in August. I acrylic primed the walls, and used Bal single part white flexi & Bal flexi white grout. Nice job, took 3 weeks mind you. They were 600x600.

 

[mwss77]

Hi All

Thanks for all your input on this one, As I have only just started Tiling I have decided that this job would be too much for me to take on at this moment in time. Plus I do not have the correct tools to cut such large tiles.

I have squared it with the customer and advised them on what is involved on this job. The guys i was to wok with have now arranged another tiler who can complete this job.

Thanks again for all your thoughts on this

Mark

 

[frogeye]

Hi Mark

As a complete novice to tiling - and certainly excluding an extensive diy history of 30 years over 3 houses - I applaud your decision. On the course I did recently - for the final project one of the lads was given humoungous porcelain tiles. He was a quiet and careful chap who took his time and considering what he was given , achieved a very good looking result. However, when we came to strip off the tiles, the instructor stood us around his bay, one by one he removed the tiles to reveal massive air pockets that had prevented good contact. Some of the tiles were fixed to the walls with no more than 20% coverage. Okay he should have removed 1 in 6 to check and maybe his technique was off (we were all learning after all), but the same bloke also had the best laid floor, with no hollows at all.

A valuable lesson was certainly learned with refards to fixing large tiles. The same goes for my wet wheel cuts around the window - okay I know they said a wet cut tile needs time to dry - but I was shocked at the poor coverage when I used them far too early. At least I know in the real world to take this into account.

How on earth the ones in my bathroom (which I did 5 years ago) are staying on I don't know, but I will soon find out as it will be my next job

best of luck for the future
frogeye