G
GazTech
Cutting in around pipework can be ok if cut neatly...
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D
Deleted member 1779
Yes in the BFKMX the 40mm will allow a rad pipe and fitting to slip through with room to spare.
The downside is that the 40mm hole looks a bit swamped.
The easy solution is a standard cover plate at 45mm.
Shown is a 15mm rad pipe being capped off with a 45mm plate. Hole underneath can be 40mm to fit through a standard rad pipe at 15mm fitted to a rad valve.
But I'd be tempted to use GazTech's standard method if you do not have an ultra fussy customer. There are projects where the extra effort is required (mainly ultra-modern contemporary) when minimilist fittings are required. Perhaps not in this case.
I just did this little article:
Tile drills for radiator pipes with our kit - By Richard Hazell of 365-Drills
1) Drill a 40mm hole into the tile.
2) Slip radiator pipe WITH the valve over the hole
3) Seat tile down onto grout and press in place
4) The Hole at 40mm looks too big for the pipe.
Slip a pipe cover over to cap off for a perfect result
The downside is that the 40mm hole looks a bit swamped.
The easy solution is a standard cover plate at 45mm.
Shown is a 15mm rad pipe being capped off with a 45mm plate. Hole underneath can be 40mm to fit through a standard rad pipe at 15mm fitted to a rad valve.
But I'd be tempted to use GazTech's standard method if you do not have an ultra fussy customer. There are projects where the extra effort is required (mainly ultra-modern contemporary) when minimilist fittings are required. Perhaps not in this case.
I just did this little article:
Tile drills for radiator pipes with our kit - By Richard Hazell of 365-Drills
1) Drill a 40mm hole into the tile.
2) Slip radiator pipe WITH the valve over the hole
3) Seat tile down onto grout and press in place
4) The Hole at 40mm looks too big for the pipe.
Slip a pipe cover over to cap off for a perfect result
Last edited by a moderator:
G
grumpygrouter
Adhesive might be a better bet RichardYes in the BFKMX the 40mm will allow a rad pipe and fitting to slip through with room to spare.
The downside is that the 40mm hole looks a bit swamped.
The easy solution is a standard cover plate at 45mm.
Shown is a 15mm rad pipe being capped off with a 45mm plate. Hole underneath can be 40mm to fit through a standard rad pipe at 15mm fitted to a rad valve.
But I'd be tempted to use GazTech's standard method if you do not have an ultra fussy customer. There are projects where the extra effort is required (mainly ultra-modern contemporary) when minimilist fittings are required. Perhaps not in this case.
I just did this little article:
Tile drills for radiator pipes with our kit - By Richard Hazell of 365-Drills
1) Drill a 40mm hole into the tile.
2) Slip radiator pipe WITH the valve over the hole
3) Seat tile down onto grout and press in place
4) The Hole at 40mm looks too big for the pipe.
Slip a pipe cover over to cap off for a perfect result
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 1779
Ha!!! 🙄 I'm an idiot. Yes Adhesive (not grout!)
PS: The chrome coverplates are from Screwfix as well as Wicks and other plumbing outlets. They actually SNAP in half to fit. No need to remove the valve from the rad pipe
PS: The chrome coverplates are from Screwfix as well as Wicks and other plumbing outlets. They actually SNAP in half to fit. No need to remove the valve from the rad pipe
Last edited by a moderator:
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sweaty sock
i would avoid at all costs draining a whole system for tiling especially if a gravity fed system _ too many things can go wrong - leave that for heating engineers and pass on cost if customer wants it -
F
Fekin
I normally do what Gaz has shown, though I like the caps that Richard mentioned.
W
White Room
Spoke to a heating engineer today and he said he will charge £100 for draining the system and filling again just so a round hole can be put in the tile:huh2:
G
grumpygrouter
i won't be getting him to service my boiler then:no:
W
White Room
This guy has so much work you would'nt believe and he used to teach at a college in Luton:yes:
D
dgilesy
Hi all,
If you have a combi boiler then there wont be much water in your system when you shut off the rads. You can get a female fitting thats screw over your valves so that you can connect a hose and drain it into the garden or outside. Then when your sone fill the boiler back to about 1 bar (using the filling loop usually located under the boiler.) If you have a conventional system then you would need to either shut off the water supply to your header tank or tie up the ball valve to stop the system refilling. Then once your finsished and every connection is done you let then ball valve down and bleed the system. Both of these can have problem though and you may get air locks. Unless you really really wants a very tight cut I go with cutting a bigger hole and using a cover.:8:
If you have a combi boiler then there wont be much water in your system when you shut off the rads. You can get a female fitting thats screw over your valves so that you can connect a hose and drain it into the garden or outside. Then when your sone fill the boiler back to about 1 bar (using the filling loop usually located under the boiler.) If you have a conventional system then you would need to either shut off the water supply to your header tank or tie up the ball valve to stop the system refilling. Then once your finsished and every connection is done you let then ball valve down and bleed the system. Both of these can have problem though and you may get air locks. Unless you really really wants a very tight cut I go with cutting a bigger hole and using a cover.:8:
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