Self Levelling Advice On Sunken Quarry Tiles

[WetSaw]

Schluter Ditra can go on a green screed or the new Bal Flexbone 2easy.

 

[Andy Allen]

@callatiler is the flexbone expert...

 

[Bond]

Blue circle premixed 40N high strength concrete.

 

[Ajax123]

Thanks Ajax123, I think I might be able to get away with 15mm, any more than that and the step into the kitchen will be a bit too high. I couldn't find any retail shops that sell gypsol ts15, so I've tried to get in contact with some suppliers.

As you are in Northampton try Breedon Aggregates. They are you closest.

 

[Steggy]

There is Ball rapid cement, takes the place of ordinary cement and can be tiled after 24 hours

Thanks Albert, is this the one? What sort of depth should I go to with that?

https://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/quickset-cement/

Schluter Ditra can go on a green screed or the new Bal Flexbone 2easy.

Sorry pdc, I didn't follow that. Are you suggesting I could put green screed down on the quarry tiles, with the Schluter Ditra on top of that?

Blue circle premixed 40N high strength concrete.

Thanks Bond, so I'd dig my tiles up, lay down the polythene sheet and then lay this cement on top?

As you are in Northampton try Breedon Aggregates. They are you closest.

Thanks Ajax, I've had word from one supplier who couldn't supply such a small amount. But I've given Breedon a try now too.

 

[WetSaw]

A green screed is one that hasn't completely cured.

 

[Steggy]

A green screed is one that hasn't completely cured.

Ah I see, so do you think I'd get away with, digging the tiles, putting down a polythene sheet screeding with 1:4 cement:sand mix.

And then putting either of those uncoupling membranes on top after a week or so? Would I need to use a breathable adhesive on the tiles to allow the screed to breath?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to a lot of this, but I'm really grateful for everyone's help.

 

[Steggy]

Hey Guys,

So I was just discussing what to do with my Father In Law, and he's not confident that we'll be able to successfully be able to lay 5cm of screed down. He's tried similar before and not been successful, and that was laying cement down in a very open area, not a very cramped kitchen with doorways etc.

He has suggested putting a polythene sheet down, and then using plywood to bring the floor level. We could then either tile straight onto that, or with an uncoupling layer.

Feel free to shoot me down if this isn't advisable, but it is a tempting solution at this point in time.

 

[Albert]

Thanks Albert, is this the one? What sort of depth should I go to with that?

https://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/quickset-cement/


Sorry pdc, I didn't follow that. Are you suggesting I could put green screed down on the quarry tiles, with the Schluter Ditra on top of that?


Thanks Bond, so I'd dig my tiles up, lay down the polythene sheet and then lay this cement on top?



Thanks Ajax, I've had word from one supplier who couldn't supply such a small amount. But I've given Breedon a try now too.

You should lay a screed of at least 50mm

 

[elbbinoutlander]

just resurrecting this thread as have a similar situation but wanted to keep information all in one place for any other users. Quarry tiles on top of soil/ash with no dpc in 1930s kitchen; sloping 10mm left to right across the room. In addition, 1990s extension has concrete floor with dpc, which also very uneven (bad workamnship) but is also 24mm lower than the height of the quarry tiles in original part of house. If i remove the quarry tiles, could i did up a small amount of the soil and lay 50mm cement layer with dpc then self level the whole thing?

 

[Sam1991]

just resurrecting this thread as have a similar situation but wanted to keep information all in one place for any other users. Quarry tiles on top of soil/ash with no dpc in 1930s kitchen; sloping 10mm left to right across the room. In addition, 1990s extension has concrete floor with dpc, which also very uneven (bad workamnship) but is also 24mm lower than the height of the quarry tiles in original part of house. If i remove the quarry tiles, could i did up a small amount of the soil and lay 50mm cement layer with dpc then self level the whole thing?

I've got the same issue. Did you find any solution?

 

[elbbinoutlander]

@sam1991

what i did:

bitumen dpm blackjack from over quarry tiles, two coats perpendicular in direction to each other. lapped up the walls to the injected dpm in the bricks.

at the end of quarry where it was > 20mm and over the concrete, fixed 20mm or 30mm jackoboard with tile adhesive after priming with two coats 3-4:1 sbr from wickes. on the blackjacked quarry i also added some tile adhesive to the mix to make like a slurry coat to help the adhesive stick.

Then drew a line all around the walls at a level 3mm above the highest point (start of the quarry kitchen) so i knew the datum line to work from. then fixed screws every 400mm into the jackoboard to act as levelling pins along the way. then mapei self leveller 3240.

not saying it is the only way to do it, but it has worked for my situation with no problems