Tile trim curving

[Sean fsy]

im suprised no one as asked what you are actually cutting ther trim with, me personally i use a normal hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade in it. no probs at all.

 

[diamondtiling]

If when you have fitted your trims you are left with a small 1 or 2mm gap then your Silicon will cover this anyway. Even the tightest cuts in plastic or metal around windows etc need to be siliconed.

 

[peckers]

I use a mitre saw rather then a mitre box, I found that most mitre boxes had too much play in them and then bought a hand mitre saw, works great and came with a fine tooth blade so doesent for up the edges on a plastic trim

 

[aqua blue]

Tip- Mark the trim and block to see if the trim is moving when you are cutting.

It only has to slip a tiny bit and it will be out. Tape/secure trim to block and try.

Stainless steel takes longer to cut so you may be getting some slippage.

 

[diamondtiling]

Tip- Mark the trim and block to see if the trim is moving when you are cutting.

It only has to slip a tiny bit and it will be out. Tape/secure trim to block and try.

Stainless steel takes longer to cut so you may be getting some slippage.

Good point, you also need a blade for stainless steel otherwise its a waste of time.

 

[CDS]

A couple of thoughts spring to mind - As I think dave suggested if you're tiling a window for example is the trim sitting at 90 degrees to the tiles? If the tiles overlap the window opening its easy for the trim to sit at angle other than 90 degrees which would give you a gap.

Also if you are cutting the end off a 2.4m length of trim is the other end secure? If using small mitre block the trim will be waving around all over the place. A decent hack saw is def needed - No junior hacksaws with chrome!

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I use a few different mitre boxes, I find if you cut small pieces of wood to hold trim tight in the box. Stops any movement. Hope this makes sense

 

[Sean fsy]

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