Tile trim curving

[DHTiling]

An out of square corner will throw the joint out as well..

 

[Daz]

If it doesn't work with the trim stood up in the mitre block, then try cutting with it laid flat. Use a couple of bits of off cuts until you solve the issue.

 

[jamie B]

might be stating the obvious, but make sure you cut the mitre exactly as you want it to lay on the wall..ie. push the trim perfectly flat against the back face of the box to form a right angle...failing that you can get handheld mitre cutters for trim a bit like secateurs with the angles marked on..might be easier if you're struggling with a box?

 

[Grant]

Thanks for the advice lads, I'll have a go at trying to cut it using the methods suggested

 

[macten]

Use a file on the dodgy cuts untill the curve disappears.

 

[Sean fsy]

im suprised no one as asked what you are actually cutting ther trim with, me personally i use a normal hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade in it. no probs at all.

 

[diamondtiling]

If when you have fitted your trims you are left with a small 1 or 2mm gap then your Silicon will cover this anyway. Even the tightest cuts in plastic or metal around windows etc need to be siliconed.

 

[peckers]

I use a mitre saw rather then a mitre box, I found that most mitre boxes had too much play in them and then bought a hand mitre saw, works great and came with a fine tooth blade so doesent for up the edges on a plastic trim

 

[aqua blue]

Tip- Mark the trim and block to see if the trim is moving when you are cutting.

It only has to slip a tiny bit and it will be out. Tape/secure trim to block and try.

Stainless steel takes longer to cut so you may be getting some slippage.

 

[diamondtiling]

Tip- Mark the trim and block to see if the trim is moving when you are cutting.

It only has to slip a tiny bit and it will be out. Tape/secure trim to block and try.

Stainless steel takes longer to cut so you may be getting some slippage.

Good point, you also need a blade for stainless steel otherwise its a waste of time.