Discuss tiling a bath panel in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

simhopper

I've not experienced anywhere near that difference in price. I agree that the frame requires sufficient batons, but when you have formed an access panel it doesn't take much more effort to add a couple more batons to eliminate flex.

Hardi, Wedi, Kerdi or any other tile backer board will be better than ply as long as the frame is structured well.

Hardibacker £7.50 a sheet+vat, 2 required

Wedi bathboard £55+vat for 1800x800

Foam board or cement board?No brainer really

Used to be a big fan of Wedi but the price is too high and there are far superior products out there
 
D

Daz

Hardibacker £7.50 a sheet+vat, 2 required

Wedi bathboard £55+vat for 1800x800

Foam board or cement board?No brainer really

Used to be a big fan of Wedi but the price is too high and there are far superior products out there

Sorry, but I have to disagree.

Hardi is £7.50+vat but that is for the 6mm boards, not the 12mm. The 6mm boards are no good for panels only for overboarding a floor.
You can get 10mm Wedi (BA10 - 2500 x 600) approx £23+vat from CTD.
I agree it will be slightly more expensive than the Hardi but not vastly different.

The Wedi is cement lined fibreboard, so pretty strong too.
 
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aflemi

TF
Arms
1
513
I've not experienced anywhere near that difference in price. I agree that the frame requires sufficient batons, but when you have formed an access panel it doesn't take much more effort to add a couple more batons to eliminate flex.

Hardi, Wedi, Kerdi or any other tile backer board will be better than ply as long as the frame is structured well.
Captain, how do you go about forming the panel support? I have my way but always looking for alternative/easier methods.
I make a frame including vertical supports with 2x2 which I screw to wall and floor. I generally use 500 hardi (hadn't thought about Wedi but would be much lighter and easier to cut...). For access I usually cut a gap maybe 20-30mm smaller than a tile in the bottom row and just use silicon to hold the tile in place. plusses and minuses with any access as it's virtually impossible to do it invisibly.
 
D

dagger

bath panels can be created loads of ways....

wedi,hardi,ply, plasterboard (tanked), this one was created with ply over 2x2 carcuss:

1111111111111111111111e.jpg


note the 4 little screw caps.....other ways can make them invisible!...unless brickbond....then you are stuffed!
 
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aflemi

TF
Arms
1
513
bath panels can be created loads of ways....

wedi,hardi,ply, plasterboard (tanked), this one was created with ply over 2x2 carcuss:

Broken Link Removed

note the 4 little screw caps.....other ways can make them invisible!...unless brickbond....then you are stuffed!

Can't open that mate................:mad2:
 
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B

bootsmckiber

Don't even mess around second guessing yourself,use the right stuff and it won't come back to bite you in the backside,I'm sure any reputable tile supply store would steer you right,here in Canada I always use Hardi-board in the bathrooms then waterproof it with "Red Guard" or Mapei's "Maplastic HPG"haven't had a bathroom callback in 27 years,don't skimp on materials and your job should outlast you,good luck,Mike:welcome:
 
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S

simhopper

Sorry, but I have to disagree.

Hardi is £7.50+vat but that is for the 6mm boards, not the 12mm. The 6mm boards are no good for panels only for overboarding a floor.
You can get 10mm Wedi (BA10 - 2500 x 600) approx £23+vat from CTD.
I agree it will be slightly more expensive than the Hardi but not vastly different.

The Wedi is cement lined fibreboard, so pretty strong too.

I pay £7.50+vat for 12mm, £9.75 +vat fot 6mm

Can you bend 12mm Hardibacker?It will snap before it bends, Wedi will bend easily.We use 12mm Hardibacker as a facing panel on wall hung wc pans, spacing is 550mm between timber and there is no movement when the bolts are tightened....Could a wedi board do this?
 
B

bootsmckiber

I've never heard of a WEDI board,is it exclusive to England cause I haven't heard of it across the pond,and along with that I'll say we do have other material more flexible,lighter,and yes more expensive,I was just stating what works for me,and like the old saying goes,if it ain't broken,don't fix it,just reseal it every few years
 
F

frank-e-boy

Ive not tiled any bath panels, but I have ripped many of them out when re-fitting bathrooms. Most are tiled onto ply wood and dont seem to have any problems. As long as it is not flexing, you use the right adhesive and sela it correctly, you wont have any problems. No need to over engineer an simple problem IMO.
 
B

bootsmckiber

I wouldn't call it over engineering I'd call it doing the job right,they have certain materials for certain jobs and there's a reason for that.I don't know about England but over in the colonies we have a thing called "building code"and it is regulated,if the proper material isn't used in certain places,then it's getting ripped out and replaced at your expense ,I don't see what the bother is anyways,people looking for the cheap way out,the customer pays for the material,get the right stuf fand you won't be going back with your tail between your legs six months later,cheersMike
 

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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 9 6.1%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 14 9.5%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 11 7.4%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 44 29.7%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 17 11.5%
  • BAL

    Votes: 35 23.6%
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    Votes: 3 2.0%
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    Votes: 2 1.4%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 21 14.2%
  • Weber

    Votes: 18 12.2%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 15 10.1%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 7 4.7%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 3 2.0%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 4 2.7%

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