Discuss tiling over floor grade chipboard in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

sharpfamily

update for info/interest: happily still no signs of cracking or any other problems.

also i've recently tiled another bathroom, again with warm up under tile heating. this time i used single part fastflex again over warm-up boards over chipboard. the single past fastflex was very much easier and cleaner to use than the 2 part fastflex (which i'd used in my other bathroom).

so while the spf has so far worked successfuly on my large tiling job on the chipboard floor, i would probably now choose to use the single part fastflex. (but still no plywood overlay). Single part fast flex is a bit more expensive than spf but it's just as easy to use. Two part fastflex is very messy and...... very dear.
 
W

White Room

not sure what value the the last 2 responses add to a learning discussion.

surely reporting a success of SPF on chipboard is of interest, even to those who only use expensive 2 part adhesive and plywood overlay......in all situations?

has no one else had success with SPF on chipboard?


Used a soverign porcelflex with sbr added on chipboard, it was in conservatory which had battens laid on a concrete floor then woodchip.

Totaly solid, have been back and forth to do other work over the last few years and theres no cracks whatsoever
 
T

thevinnyofoz

What a great argument made by sharpfamily, that was a good read. Please keep the updates going.

I would like to add that since I started tiling ( although part time ) I do get the feeling that tiling is simply tiling but when that tiling is done by a Pro, the Pro has to cover his backside as a priority on all jobs. Not good business practice when jobs go wrong and Mr Pro is having to re do jobs at his own expence. On the other hand, looking at the tiling world from a home owners DIY perspective, the tiling game does look over enginered and over prepared. I'd even go as far to say that it's paranoid that all will go wrong if you don't use some big worded, super dupa, flex mexi maxi muti something or other to avoid such catastrofic issue.

I totally agree that in the case of a Pro all avenues must be covered and all preperation must be made for realistic future proofing, in the case of the home owner DIY guy I would say take the advice from a Pro or take your luck with your own choice, it's not so hard to pick an adhesive and grout at a decent price and role the dice.

I think this tread has been about the carfully calculated opinion of the Home Owner who understands both movement and substrate verses the over prepared Pro tiler and working out were the two meet.

What a good read, I love this forum :hurray:


 
M

mikethetile

most of the deflection in a wood floor is in the floor joists, this shock absorbing bounce is deliberate and calculated, to tile over the bounce or deflection needs to be taken out or the job will fail

with fixing to battens onto a concrete base there is no joist bounce, if the chipboard flooring is laid brick bond pattern with glued joints it becomes as one and there is virtually no deflection, hence chippies insisting that chipboard flooring is stronger than ply,

chip board is chipped wood glued and compressed into a board, green cb uses a waterproof glue which will resist breaking down when wet

however the compressed surface of chipbard will not resist mechanicly pulling the tiles up. this job appears to have been a success due to lack of deflection in the floor and hence no cracked grout, but the tiles adherance is only as strong as the facing of the chipboard , which believe me is easily delaminated
 
S

sharpfamily

just reporting back that my 48msq of tiles are still all firmly fixed and totally crack free. that's now just about 2 yrs since they were laid.

that's now a pretty long test period - floor has had lots of heavy usage and weekly washes over the past 2 years. i'm pretty sure that it will remain touble free but i will further report back if there are any signs of problems.
 
D

Deleted member 9966

Ok, just tried to copy and paste photo of the floor - but couldn't get it to paste into here. any advice?

hi there, you need to make sure your photo is of a certain size and format. I cannot recall the exact requirements but usually if you can't get a pic to upload on to here, it's because it's too big. try scaling it down a little. I'll have a look for the size requirements and post them up for you.
 
S

Stef

Just read this thread with interest, i carried out a repair just last week on a tiled bathroom floor, tiled directly on too green sheets, about half the floor had failed, floor about 6 m2. I told the home owner that it needs a total strip out as you cannot tile directly to this subrate. He is selling his house so the repair was just a "get him by". wish i had taken photos so i could have posted on here!
 
D

Deleted member 9966

hi there, you need to make sure your photo is of a certain size and format. I cannot recall the exact requirements but usually if you can't get a pic to upload on to here, it's because it's too big. try scaling it down a little. I'll have a look for the size requirements and post them up for you.

2400 x 1200 is the maximum photo size that can be uploaded. the forum accepts most photo formats. don't forget to click on Go Advanced button and go to the Paperclip icon to attach the photo's. Hope this helps.
 

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