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Thats because they removed the tiles from the edge to the centre, instead of from the centre outwards.
The house builder hasn't had anything to do with this part of the project. This is the kitchen and utility floor, which this is, was done as part of the new kitchen.
No, it was a new kitchen going into a new build. The builder didn't supply or fit the kitchen, a specialist kitchen company did that. The kitchen was fitted before the house was complete and handed over by the builder.
I have the new tiler and the job set up to start on the 22nd. I have offered the original tiler a deal to pay half of the cost to replace them, but that is on condition that the deal is accepted without going to court. The reason that the work is not already underway is because I have offered the tiler the opportunty to send their own representative to inspect the floor on their behalf and I gave them 14 days to do this. I want to be fair and reasonable, and I also want the tiler to be the same to me. I have offered the deal not becuse I don't think I would win in court but only because it is going to cost (the most recent estimate) £6K to put this right and I realise that this is a substantial amount for the tiler to pay so I am willing to cut my losses and meet them half way. But that's a short term offer, if it's not accepted I will reluctantly sue for the whole job.
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I agree, I always ask the customer what width they want. I even set a few tiles out with the different spacers so they can see what i'm asking. I don't think you can leave anything to chance.
C
charlie1
All these issues should (imo) be discussed with customer prior to starting! Size of joint can have abig bearing in the overall look of the job! Having said that, sometimes with poorly calibrated tiles can dictate a larger joint! Nothing against larger joints, I have seen some great tiled floors with 5mm joints!!
Imo this is just one of those unfortunate cases where the expectations of the customer has not been saticfied by the tiler!....why are these issues never picked up during the project....would save a lot of hassle!
Imo this is just one of those unfortunate cases where the expectations of the customer has not been saticfied by the tiler!....why are these issues never picked up during the project....would save a lot of hassle!
J
Jackie0802
Hi Charlie1,
I agree with you up to a certain extent, and if the grout width was the only problem we wouldn't have a dispute because on the face of it although (IMO) the floor would look better with a thinner grout line the width on it's own would not be a problem. With respect, I don't think it is for the customer to stand over the tilers shoulder and point out crooked tiles or awful cuts as the job progresses. We relied on the tilers professional expertise, and we paid for that expertise. We have also paid more money in an effort to get this put right. I'd also point out that water pooling in the grout line after the floor is washed is not something you would expect a customer to anticipate, but a good tiler should and apply the grout accordingly. I don't think our expectations were out of the ordinary, we would just like to be able to walk across the floor without tripping over and not have to wear wellingtons until the grout dries!
Oh, and a 5mm joint would be about half what we currently have
I agree with you up to a certain extent, and if the grout width was the only problem we wouldn't have a dispute because on the face of it although (IMO) the floor would look better with a thinner grout line the width on it's own would not be a problem. With respect, I don't think it is for the customer to stand over the tilers shoulder and point out crooked tiles or awful cuts as the job progresses. We relied on the tilers professional expertise, and we paid for that expertise. We have also paid more money in an effort to get this put right. I'd also point out that water pooling in the grout line after the floor is washed is not something you would expect a customer to anticipate, but a good tiler should and apply the grout accordingly. I don't think our expectations were out of the ordinary, we would just like to be able to walk across the floor without tripping over and not have to wear wellingtons until the grout dries!
Oh, and a 5mm joint would be about half what we currently have
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T
The D
Do you know what grout was used as in was it a specific wide joint grout or was it a standard grout?? if it was a standard grout this may go some way in explaining why the grout slumps in the joint.
British standards are there for your protection as well as his so quote them back at him.
IMO that type of tile should have a 3-5 mm joint maximum it looks to me that he has used a very large joint in an attempt to disguise shoddy workmanship.
British standards are there for your protection as well as his so quote them back at him.
IMO that type of tile should have a 3-5 mm joint maximum it looks to me that he has used a very large joint in an attempt to disguise shoddy workmanship.
just tiled a bathroom with 60x40(well,actually 61.5x41.5 )asked the customer how they wanted tiles and what spacer
Answer- " are we the tiler,you should know what looks best" :smilewinkgrin:
As for that job,the close ups look real bad,im with deano he has used BIG spaces to make up for bad work,id like to see the full floor as well,set up ect ect
)asked the customer how they wanted tiles and what spacerAnswer- " are we the tiler,you should know what looks best" :smilewinkgrin:
As for that job,the close ups look real bad,im with deano he has used BIG spaces to make up for bad work,id like to see the full floor as well,set up ect ect
Thats because they removed the tiles from the edge to the centre, instead of from the centre outwards.
J
Jackie0802
The house builder hasn't had anything to do with this part of the project. This is the kitchen and utility floor, which this is, was done as part of the new kitchen.
J
Jackie0802
No, it was a new kitchen going into a new build. The builder didn't supply or fit the kitchen, a specialist kitchen company did that. The kitchen was fitted before the house was complete and handed over by the builder.
D
DHTiling
It's a shame to see yet another crap tiling installation.. the market is flooded with these ruff no care in the world would be tilers..
You are not happy with the quality, simple as that.. stand your ground and get this bodger to sort it or cough up for someone who can..
The use of wide joints on that type of tile is simply coz the tiler cannot tile with smaller joints, so used a wide one to try and hide his rubbish levels of floor tiling.
Sorry to sound abrupt but i am passionate about my trade and does my napper in when customer get shoddy work done.
You are not happy with the quality, simple as that.. stand your ground and get this bodger to sort it or cough up for someone who can..
The use of wide joints on that type of tile is simply coz the tiler cannot tile with smaller joints, so used a wide one to try and hide his rubbish levels of floor tiling.
Sorry to sound abrupt but i am passionate about my trade and does my napper in when customer get shoddy work done.
especially when theres some A1 tilers out there short of work...:incazzato:
can i ask, was this tiler recomended to you?....did you get more than one qoute?
if your not happy with the job (and looking at the pics, i dont think anyone would be) then i would stop at nothing to get you money back..
can i ask, was this tiler recomended to you?....did you get more than one qoute?
if your not happy with the job (and looking at the pics, i dont think anyone would be) then i would stop at nothing to get you money back..
J
Jackie0802
I have the new tiler and the job set up to start on the 22nd. I have offered the original tiler a deal to pay half of the cost to replace them, but that is on condition that the deal is accepted without going to court. The reason that the work is not already underway is because I have offered the tiler the opportunty to send their own representative to inspect the floor on their behalf and I gave them 14 days to do this. I want to be fair and reasonable, and I also want the tiler to be the same to me. I have offered the deal not becuse I don't think I would win in court but only because it is going to cost (the most recent estimate) £6K to put this right and I realise that this is a substantial amount for the tiler to pay so I am willing to cut my losses and meet them half way. But that's a short term offer, if it's not accepted I will reluctantly sue for the whole job.
M
Marvo
Are there any tiling-specific British Standards or any other standards for that matter that tilers are required to work to?
Are tilers officially certified in any way as being competant or being of a certain legally recognised professional standard? Is the trade regulated legally in any way?
Are there official qualifications a tiler can hold that would set him apart as being better that others?
Please don't take this question the wrong way, I'm genuinely interested.
Are tilers officially certified in any way as being competant or being of a certain legally recognised professional standard? Is the trade regulated legally in any way?
Are there official qualifications a tiler can hold that would set him apart as being better that others?
Please don't take this question the wrong way, I'm genuinely interested.
BS5385 if I remember rightly. British standards in wall and floor tiling. Yeah.
There's a lot of surface types (plaster, plasterboard, concrete, tongue and groove, ply, then tile boards etc etc, and even existing tiles) that we tile to. And a lot of tile types that have different adhesion properties. So full-bodied (or full vitrified) porcelain doesn't really absorb water, so standard adhesives don't bond to it well, you need one with polymer additives in, or whatever it is.
Ceramics with a 'biscuit' backing adhere to anything though.
Times are changing these days. People want heated floors tiled on timber of some form with huge tiles. And if they're translucent, you need light coloured adhesive and then skim the tiles individually as well as trowelling the surface.
BS states that tiles should only have a certain mm undulation over a 2m length too, and states that you need certain mm grout joints for walls and floors (2mm for walls, 3mm for floors i think I is, lads?).
So yeah, might not be as technical as electrical (you don't get killed sticking tiles in water either) but you can get sued just as easy if you screw up.
There's a lot of surface types (plaster, plasterboard, concrete, tongue and groove, ply, then tile boards etc etc, and even existing tiles) that we tile to. And a lot of tile types that have different adhesion properties. So full-bodied (or full vitrified) porcelain doesn't really absorb water, so standard adhesives don't bond to it well, you need one with polymer additives in, or whatever it is.
Ceramics with a 'biscuit' backing adhere to anything though.
Times are changing these days. People want heated floors tiled on timber of some form with huge tiles. And if they're translucent, you need light coloured adhesive and then skim the tiles individually as well as trowelling the surface.
BS states that tiles should only have a certain mm undulation over a 2m length too, and states that you need certain mm grout joints for walls and floors (2mm for walls, 3mm for floors i think I is, lads?).
So yeah, might not be as technical as electrical (you don't get killed sticking tiles in water either) but you can get sued just as easy if you screw up.
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J Sid
Hi Marvo
Yes as Dan says, there is a British Standard covering things to know. I believe this is published by a public body, but sadly it will you cost you may thousands of pounds to own it.
Yes there are qualifications you can get, but from I have seen this will not mean you able to tile to a very high standard.
I have noticed that if you get a qualification in painting and decorating you will be well placed to get more tiling work than you will need.
Yes as Dan says, there is a British Standard covering things to know. I believe this is published by a public body, but sadly it will you cost you may thousands of pounds to own it.
Yes there are qualifications you can get, but from I have seen this will not mean you able to tile to a very high standard.
I have noticed that if you get a qualification in painting and decorating you will be well placed to get more tiling work than you will need.
J
Just Rizzle
I started tiling in 1982 working for a building firm in Hartlepool then in 85 moved to woking in surrey where I started working as a subby .first big job was expanding a prison complex at Feltham spent 2years tiling there had home office clark of works who were real ba/ards work had to bespot on ie 3mm over 3mts or it was up and had to do again it was also sand and cement work no addhesives .
33yrs on and still going and learning some thing new every day. the thing with this trade is experience is more important imho than any thing you learn on a basic 2 week training course took a guy on once had a piece of paper that said he could tile. had to rip it all out and re do lesson learnt .
wish I had a pound for every tile ive fixed would be a multi millionaire by now
33yrs on and still going and learning some thing new every day. the thing with this trade is experience is more important imho than any thing you learn on a basic 2 week training course took a guy on once had a piece of paper that said he could tile. had to rip it all out and re do lesson learnt .
wish I had a pound for every tile ive fixed would be a multi millionaire by now
M
Marvo
I downloaded the BS5385-1 to 5 to check it out and I was very surprised how specific and extensive the regs are. There's a regulation about lots of things that I always thought might be down to customer taste or just the preference of the tiler or even the manufacturer etc. I glanced through some of them and I even learned a few things in the process, I now know what 'spatterdash' is for example so every day is a school day I guess.
I
Ian
Did you have to pay for the download?
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