Important Changes to Tiling Standards

[Unused Account 1]

Not many walls or floors level these days ,working to fast

 

[LM]

Put a 2m long straight edge anywhere on the plasterboard and if there is any gap greater than 3mm between the straight edge and the board then it is not flat enough to tile.
On the tiled wall do the same test using a 2m straight edge with 3mm feet each end. If the gap between this and the tiles exceeds 6mm or the straight edge touches the tiling then the tiling does not meet BS.
This is based on my memory of reading BS5385 a while ago (I no longer have an up to date copy).

The same tests apply for the flatness of a floor substrate and floor tiling.
On a large floor the surface should also be flat within +/-15mm of the datum or as per the architects specified tolerance. I don't know the equivalent wall building tolerance.

I have to deal with clark of works a lot and the above is exactly right, to simplify it if a pound coin which is 3mm can fit anywhere under a two metre straight edge anywhere on the substrate then the substrate is out of tolerence and a quick tip is to tape a pound coin to both edges of a 2 metre straight edge an use two pound coins on the floor

 

[Flintstone]

Sounds like hell. Building sites?

 

[LM]

Sounds like hell. Building sites?

Actually if everyone before us is made leave their work to acceptable standards then it's easier for us to leave a good job and so on

 

[Flintstone]

I agree totally but out there in people's homes, your up against all sorts, if I did the pound coin test on every job, I'd never work!

 

[LM]

I agree totally but out there in people's homes, your up against all sorts, if I did the pound coin test on every job, I'd never work!

You just need to price for correct prep

 

[Flintstone]

I'm a tiler, not a plasterer.

 

[LM]

I'm a tiler, not a plasterer.

Lol, but that's what comes with the territory with some private jobs I suppose that's why our experience in dealing with crap helps us establish Good reputations were we can more or less name our price within reason.
Then again if it's too bad and other trades are required then so be it

 

[area tiling]

It seems to be the norm these days , and when you tell the client you need a couple of Xtra bags to level out walls etc , they Moan n groan !
Id a small bathroom floor today that was 1.9 m long and was out of level by 12mm ! New floor

 

[Flintstone]

It depends how involved you want to get, I normally look at a job before I actually start it, If it needs some work then I tell them to get it sorted. If I sub to someone then it's sorted before I turn up. I don't do rip outs because it's a mucky horrible job that I don't need!

 

[Old Mod]

Interesting conversation!

 

[Lee daykin]

hi., first time on here,
But thought I’d give it a go.!
I’m trying to find clarification as to who is responsible for tiling to floors within nhbc standards on site.
We have major issues with uneven floors/screeds.
We have the groundworkers insisting they are laid tolerance, and we have our 3mm at each end of a 2m straight edge tolerance when tiling.
There is a grey are In between the two., as to who is responsible to Make the screed flat to tile to., and indeed whether tiles should be laid to level., or laid to flat.
The screeds are allowed a tolerance of 25 mm out of level over 6 m., which begs the question if we lay level to that maximum tolerance, who is responsible for extra costs involved.
This way also throws up issues at doorways if one end of the house is 25mm higher than the other.
Any bonefide nhbc info would be greatly accepted!!
Thanks lee

 

[LM]

The builder is supposed to provide you with a floor fit for tiling, within standards. If it’s not then you should ask him to correct it by either grinding down high spots or levelling low points or in most cases both. If he doesn’t want to do it then he should pay you to do it. If not then walk imo. Begin as you mean to go on, if you start tiling sub standard screeds he’ll expect you to do the same on every other floor.

 

[Lee daykin]

Hi lee thanks for your reply.
Generally the builders pay us to level the floors. Which we do with a 3m straight Edge and staff it off of the highest points, filling in the dips. Then tile to our 2m +\- 3mm tolerance
The argument now is that we do this to flat and not level. If we went to level, we could have steps at doorways., unless we level the entire house which is obviously not an option.
I guess what I’m looking for is clarification over the level or flat debate.! The is issue on this occasion is that they now want the hallway tiled after having tiled the kitchen to flat., the hallway has a hump
In it, and they’re trying to put it on us that if the floor was tiled to level the jump would not be an issue.
However there would have been a step at the doorway originally. Hope this all makes sense!
Thanks

 

[LM]

When the screed is installed it has three datums that it has to meet which should all be the same, the exterior door sills, the bottom of the interior door frames and the bottom of the stairs. If the screed is meeting all these points then it can't be too far out and if it isn't then there's going to be major issues. If the floor is so far out in the hall the front door probably wont open and the bottom riser height of the stair will be out of acceptable limits for building control. If it's that bad have them take it out and replace it.