Tiling to gypsum based substrates/backgrounds.

Nope... I'm enjoying reading it too much. My opinions are well known but when all is said and done Dave is right if you do it all by the book you can use cement addy. The gypsum addys remove the uncertainty and cater for the less perfect. Yes I know all tilers are great and do everything by the book...I have met many who have said so and yet the floors have failed. For my money why take the risk. Sand it, heat it, cool it, test it, prime it, and tile it but use gypsum based adhesive not cement.."...

ajax are you saying that those of us that use gypsum based addy are not as perfect as others????
 
I'm curious as to why if anhydrite screeds are the bees knees and gypsum/anhydrite-based adhesives are the way forward, why don't BAL or Mapei make one?
Mapei do. They just don't make it available in the UK for some reason. You'd have to ask them why.
 
ajax are you saying that those of us that use gypsum based addy are not as perfect as others????
Not at all. What I'm saying is that there are tilers out there who don't do things properly especially in terms of prep and moisture testing. Gypsum adhesives add a level of robustness that means that most of the time the get away with it. There is no excuse for not doing the job properly but you would be naive in the extreme to think that everyone does. If you don't prep right with cement adhesive it WILL fail, if you don't prep right with gypsum addy it might not.

I have ate seen several failures with gypsum addy but not anything like the same sort of level as with cement
 
dave how can you comment on these adhesives when as you say you've never used them??

and im well aware of what can be used in wet areas about 4yrs ago did 45 wet rooms for a builder on a site in Richmond

and no I use tilemaster products on walls as theres a vast difference between gypsum walls and anhydrite(calsium sulphate) floors as ajax123 asjust stated


I havent commented on using it 🙂 , I use primer and cement ,, can't you read lol lol ..

You seem to refuse to say whether you've tiled using cement based but hey ho who cares TBO..


I think the threads served its purpose ... Cheers all.
 
Not at all. What I'm saying is that there are tilers out there who don't do things properly especially in terms of prep and moisture testing. Gypsum adhesives add a level of robustness that means that most of the time the get away with it. There is no excuse for not doing the job properly but you would be naive in the extreme to think that everyone does. If you don't prep right with cement adhesive it WILL fail, if you don't prep right with gypsum addy it might not.

I have ate seen several failures with gypsum addy but not anything like the same sort of level as with cement

ajax can you explain why some are laying cs screeds thinner and thinner with ufh was reading a thread where the screed was 40 mm thick or thin most I do are 60 to 70 mm thick. surely the thinner the screed the weaker it is and the hotter it will get or not as ufh pipes are closer to the surface and how will this effect the expansion and contraction of the products stuck to it .
 
I use mapei keraflex White over 5 years now. This is what it says on tech sheet
Keraflex cement based adhesive and I used many Times on gypsum and anhydride screed
WHERE TO USE

Interior and exterior bonding of ceramic tiles (single- fired, double-fired, porcelain tiles, terracotta, klinker, etc.) stone materials and mosaics of every type on floors, walls and ceilings. Also suitable for spot bonding of insulating materials such as expanded polystyrene, rock and glass wool, Eraclit® (wood-cement panels), sound-deadening/reduction panels, etc.

Some application examples

• Bonding ceramic tiles (double fired, single fired, porcelain, clay tiles, klinker, etc.), stone materials and mosaics on the following substrates:
– cement or mortar wall renders;

– interior aerated concrete block walls;
– gypsum or anhydrite after having first applied Primer G; – gypsum board;
– underfloor heated installations;
– cement screeds, as long as they are sufficiently

cured and dry;
– interior painted walls, as long as the paint is firmly
 
ajax can you explain why some are laying cs screeds thinner and thinner with ufh was reading a thread where the screed was 40 mm thick or thin most I do are 60 to 70 mm thick. surely the thinner the screed the weaker it is and the hotter it will get or not as ufh pipes are closer to the surface and how will this effect the expansion and contraction of the products stuck to it .


We we are going even thinner than 40mm in some cases. It's all about efficiency. The thinner the screed is the lower the mass and faster the response the lower the required running temperatures. The lower the temperature the less energy is required. It doesn't follow that the thinner it is the weaker it is as we do things with the materials to increase strength and flexibility. Yes it may affect the thermal expansion and contraction of things stuck to it but that is not really our primary concern. The tiling industry will I hope catch up with developments as we are moving faster than they are in the UK generally speaking or perhaps more accurately we are moving in slightly different directions.
 
I use mapei keraflex White over 5 years now. This is what it says on tech sheet
Keraflex cement based adhesive and I used many Times on gypsum and anhydride screed
WHERE TO USE

Interior and exterior bonding of ceramic tiles (single- fired, double-fired, porcelain tiles, terracotta, klinker, etc.) stone materials and mosaics of every type on floors, walls and ceilings. Also suitable for spot bonding of insulating materials such as expanded polystyrene, rock and glass wool, Eraclit® (wood-cement panels), sound-deadening/reduction panels, etc.

Some application examples

• Bonding ceramic tiles (double fired, single fired, porcelain, clay tiles, klinker, etc.), stone materials and mosaics on the following substrates:
– cement or mortar wall renders;

– interior aerated concrete block walls;
– gypsum or anhydrite after having first applied Primer G; – gypsum board;
– underfloor heated installations;
– cement screeds, as long as they are sufficiently

cured and dry;
– interior painted walls, as long as the paint is firmly

i have unfortunately seen this type of system fail more times than I can count. The failures are often a result of excess residual moisture (no test having been done) or primer failure (due to inadequate prep). It's one of the reasons I don't recommend it personally. Obviously if it is done right it's fine but it so often is not. The gypsum based adhesives are far more tolerant to residual moisture.
 
We we are going even thinner than 40mm in some cases. It's all about efficiency. The thinner the screed is the lower the mass and faster the response the lower the required running temperatures. The lower the temperature the less energy is required. It doesn't follow that the thinner it is the weaker it is as we do things with the materials to increase strength and flexibility. Yes it may affect the thermal expansion and contraction of things stuck to it but that is not really our primary concern. The tiling industry will I hope catch up with developments as we are moving faster than they are in the UK generally speaking or perhaps more accurately we are moving in slightly different directions.

thanks ajax. so the thinner the screed , may effect thermal expansion and contraction so would you say there is a need for decoupling mats to avoid failures?
 

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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 9 5.2%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 17 9.9%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 12 7.0%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 49 28.5%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 21 12.2%
  • BAL

    Votes: 40 23.3%
  • Wedi

    Votes: 4 2.3%
  • Benfer

    Votes: 5 2.9%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 24 14.0%
  • Weber

    Votes: 19 11.0%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 17 9.9%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 8 4.7%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 2 1.2%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 5 2.9%

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