Tips For Siliconing

[Flintstone]

Ok maybe a little larger that the 2-3mm joint, but not anywhere near as big and thick as that picture.

 

[Qwerty]

The picture looks like a neat 5mm bead to me

 

[mma]

4/5mm for me, too much and it can stand out. I like it to be subtle. If I was really good at it, think I would like to be a mastic man! Got a bit fed up with tiling towards the end of last year. Tips, don't apply too much silicone, use a smoothing tool with water/washing up liquid, baby wipes and a big roll of tissue (type window fitters use) keep the same nozzle if you have success with it. I don't go too mad with one of them spray bottles either, if the silicone hasn't stuck somewhere it gets behind and then becomes a pain to re stick. I quite like Tilemasters silicone, very easy to use!

 

[SJPurdy]

Thanks for those replies, much of which I agree with.
I think the picture of corner joints by Juris looks very neat and the width looks ok but there is nothing to scale it against other than it looks to be a standard tool profile.
Last time I read BS5385 though (2009 version) I am sure it states minimum 6mm wide joint (that's the gap in tiling). Personally I think this is well over the top excepting where there is an expectation of movement to occur - a 6mm gap would allow for 1.5mm compression or stretching of the sealant (assuming 25% elasticity); which is more than I would expect in say the corner joint of a bathroom. Are we all saying then that the BS is "wrong" and we do not adhere to it? in my experience we don't but how do we justify this?
PS just trying to get some debate/opinions not criticise anyone

 

[Old Mod]

@SJPurdy
Do you not think we can be driven more by aesthetics and current trends to a point Steve?
Large joints of any kind are frowned upon by clients whether they be builders or homeowners, everyone wants no joints more or less, certainly with those I come into contact with.
Yes yes, I know what BS says, but the client doesn't normally care what BS states do they!
They just want it their way, and if designers or retailers show tiles with virtually no joint, that's what they want. They want what they THINK they bought haha
Only trouble with that is that guys that go before us in the construction of the room are not driven by the same aesthetics, and neither are their materials!

 

[richie b]

i still use old ice lolly sticks and spray bottle with water and washing up liquid, spray over the silicone lightly and soak the stick, when you get use to it you angle the stick to get any size bead you like

 

[magga]

So, those of you who use a profiling tool (I do too), what about behind bath/basin taps when you can barely even get the silicone nozzle down there?

 

[Qwerty]

I have modified one (cut it) to make it around 15mm wide.

 

[J Sid]

So, those of you who use a profiling tool (I do too), what about behind bath/basin taps when you can barely even get the silicone nozzle down there?

Leave it for the plumber to do round the bath.....
Water is not always turned on in the room when it is tiled, and as the bath needs to be at least half full of water when it is siliconed, I can't do it...

 

[magga]

I'm a bathroom fitter, so I can't get away with leaving it, and it can be a right pain sometimes, depending on what taps they are.

 

[J Sid]

I'm a bathroom fitter, so I can't get away with leaving it, and it can be a right pain sometimes, depending on what taps they are.

Simple, don't fit the taps till its tiled and siliconed, assuming the taps are at the bath end

 

[magga]

Yeah, usually I do, just I had one recently that was all boxed in so taps had to go on first. I like the idea of cutting one though, will have to buy another set!

 

[SJPurdy]

So, those of you who use a profiling tool (I do too), what about behind bath/basin taps when you can barely even get the silicone nozzle down there?

They are a pain. If I can I use strips of masking tapes in these tight bits and then finger or rounded stick (lolly pop stick or to match tool profile) to do the best I can before removing the tape and then doing the rest of the joints each side in the usual way with a profiling tool.

 

[SJPurdy]

I have seen some cheap silicones that state this, so I don't use them as they don't have much confidence in the adhesion and/or elasticity of their products. I have tried it (years ago) when there has been a cheap bath fitted badly so that there was dropping of the bath under load; and it didn't work so I had to get under the bath and fit wood props in all the corners to stop the bath moving (something I've done since many times) which did work. When applying silicone everything should be as dry as possible - having a bath half filled with water is the opposite of what is required.
If there is excessive movement in a bath (or shower tray) then trying to cure it by fixing it to the tiles with silicone puts an enormous stress on the bottom row of tiles (even if it will only be half a bath full of water and the bather) and I have been called out to look at to look at failures in the tiling due to this many times.

 

[J Sid]

I understand why you don't do it from your comments, but for me, I have always been told it should be done that way. I understand the principle behind doing it that way, and see no reason not to do it.

 

[magga]

I understand why you don't do it from your comments, but for me, I have always been told it should be done that way. I understand the principle behind doing it that way, and see no reason not to do it.

I do the same, and not had a problem.

 

[jobdone]

I always fill bath first. They dont move much if i have installed it as always batten round. Finger and squirty bottle/washing up liquid for finishing. Dow corning 785 easiest to use imo but not many colours, have got used to bal due to using a lot of mm2 grout.
How does tilemaster compare to other silicone as have just found a stockist not to far away so am going to give grout 3000 a go and like to match silicone

 

[Unused Account 1]

Fingers and spray ,some joints you see far to big ,

 

[magga]

Sometimes I can get a uniform line straight out of the gun, but it's very difficult to do around the entire room, even if you a manage to do one wall. I can't see how a nice uniform line can be acheived with a finger, especially in the instance of dark silicone on white tiles. Perhaps I need more practice!

 

[jobdone]

To keep it even after fingering I respray and pull my finger nail thtough

 

[mma]

To keep it even after fingering I respray and pull my finger nail thtough

Sounds painful...

 

[jobdone]

Perhaps I could of phrased it better.

 

[magga]

Whilst on this subject, this was the result of a plumber "teaching" someone how to apply and finish silicone around a bath on cowboy builders...

 

[macten]

I persevered with the Fugi kit as everyone else rates it and I'm glad I did - now I've got the knack of it it's a great time saver and leaves a lovely looking neat bead.

 

[Wishiwasatoptiler]

I've started using frog tape on kitchen benches if the silicone is lighter colour just puts the sharpest of straight lines on it. Very good when the bench is of the oak type. Do rate the fugi to. Love the little skis.