Tubbed stuff

[Jez]

Ta much Mr Beanz! Don't feel great now - it would be fine if I didn't give a damn about finished work.

We'll have to see won't we but not going over it again and again, just know that I won't touch the stuff again and that once bitten twice shy, also that this is one of the reasons i joined this forum - the knowledge and friendly advice. Powder all the way from here no if's no but's!!

Feel like a quiet beer now followed by several noisy ones!

 

[beanz]

We've all been there mate. Nobody likes to turn work down, and some customers can be pretty insistant. At the end of the day, you have to guage the customer as to whether or not they would except responsibility if it does go wrong.

My 1st bathroom was tiling onto base coat, on a completely....... Shall we say inebriated wall? I explained that Basecoat isn't a suitable substrate, and how it would look with the tiles sticking up etc... He didn't care!?! The only reason i didn't walk away was that it was a friends parents place, and i was assured there would be no comeback. Didn't enjoy that job at all though, and wouldn't do it again purely because of the lack of job satisfaction.

 

[Jez]

Almost identical circumstances to be honest - a friend's brother-in-law, insistant and no comeback. It was a ***** of a job too. But never again, lesson learnt and thanks for the input.

 

[robbbin]

Never use tubs crap takes to long to cure for gods sake ......... what you supposed to do tell people Ill be back in 2 days to grout always rapid powder from Topps flexi or the blue bag both cheap and very good

 

[ph121]

how about mapegrip D2T?
Tile Giant sold me this for my bathroom. was trying to say that powder was better, after looking at this forum. anyway ended up going with their suggestion taking it out of the shop.
this is for a 250x400 ceramic tile, including around the shower area. thinking of tanking the walls around the shower. 2 walls have brick, then bonding then skim, the 3rd is plasterboard..the walls need to be reskimmded in places,as it was damaged when ripping out the old tiles. but dissapointed with the drying time. Can't really hang around for 2 weeks waiting for plaster to dry....any suggestions?

for the floor they sold me keraflex maxi, which is for 600x300 porcaline..
which would on 25mm ply.(old floorbords in bad condition).
can i mount thsese tiles straight onto the ply?
cheers

 

[Stan001]

I’ve used tubbed before but on smaller tiles, flat walls and let them dry for two days before grouting. It was Bal tubbed addy and I was ‘told’ to use it by CTD. I switched to powder and don’t use tubbed now. I think beginners (and I’m happy to include myself in that) ‘think’ tubbed is easier to use, and I think the distributors think that too so recommend tubbed to the DIY guys. I personally would never go back to tub, its heavy to lug around, dries off in the tub if you don’t use it all in one shot, and is damned expensive. Use powder as the guys recommend, the first time you use it you’ll stress out (if your used to tub) as it seems more work mixing etc. and you have to work faster. But once you do you wont go back.
Now the real reason for my mail. You can cover your *** somewhat ref what materials you are using, ref supplied by customers etc. I personally would when initially quoting a job let them know I (ie you!) will recommend the exact ,materials, spec and quantity and if they insist you use something they supplied then write a contract (only needs to be a few sentences) explaining that you are providing labour only and as they are supplying materials not recommend by you that you take no responsibility for the performance but only the workmanship! Ultimately the trade tilers on here are right, walk away or insist they use your stuff, but in recession times you cant be picky but you can cover your ***.
Fyi – the reason I can tell you this is I build / property develop and hire trades, if you build on a self-build basis, this means you can hire trades on labour only and buy materials as you can claim tax back on materials only. So contracts / agreements stating as I’ve just explained (i.e. cover your *** statement / combined quotes with a signature) are common!
I accepted one from a plumber a while ago who had to come in to replace a plumber I had to let go (he simply wasnt up to the job i could see that and eventually he told me so near the end of the first fix), I managed to hire a good second plumber for the second fix but of course he wrote a contract with me that he wont be responsible for certain leaks etc as he was effectively then pre-blaming the first plumber (he couldn’t see what was now inside walls and under floors etc. so that was reasonable). Don’t get scared about writing a contract at the very earliest stages, so both you and the contractor are on the same sheet. It feels uncomfortable at first – but after you’ve done one then you realise its not personal or making excuses. (I have not noticed anything on this forum ref contracts, terms and conditions etc. it’s a sticky subject and Id appreciate feedback from a tilers point of view if poss, ta). I write from a contractors point of view rather than as the trade, I can assure you 'we' don’t take it personally. Cover you *** by getting it in writing early!

 

[TheWrightTiler]

no way hose

powder on anything 300 x 300 or bigger

tend to use mostly pwder as grouting can be done after 3 hours

dont do it

andy

 

[ph121]

would tubbed mapegrip DT be ok for 300x250 ceramic wall tiles? or should i take it back to Tile Giant?
Also is it ok for tanking membrane?

thanks for any advice

 

[poynton phil]

I myself, dont use tubbed addy at all now saves time for me

 

[Matt]

how about mapegrip D2T?
Tile Giant sold me this for my bathroom. was trying to say that powder was better, after looking at this forum. anyway ended up going with their suggestion taking it out of the shop.
this is for a 250x400 ceramic tile, including around the shower area. thinking of tanking the walls around the shower. 2 walls have brick, then bonding then skim, the 3rd is plasterboard..the walls need to be reskimmded in places,as it was damaged when ripping out the old tiles. but dissapointed with the drying time. Can't really hang around for 2 weeks waiting for plaster to dry....any suggestions?

for the floor they sold me keraflex maxi, which is for 600x300 porcaline..
which would on 25mm ply.(old floorbords in bad condition).
can i mount thsese tiles straight onto the ply?
cheers

I have only just seen this, sorry for the late reply

The Mapegrip D2 will be ok, but will take alittle while to dry. If you are unsure, ring the Mapei Technical department, they have some great guys on the end of the phone. Powdered would of been better and I don't know why they sold you tubbed, if you wanted powdered.

We sell alot of the Mapegrip D2 with 250x400 tiles as alot of customers don't like to mix adhesive. I am guessing you brought the Capri range?

Keraflex Maxi will be fine to go onto the ply (No less than 22mm), but make sure the floor is sound. If there is any deflection, that will need to be fixed before you put the tiles down.

 

[tileexperts]

i only use tubbed adhesive for kitcheen wall splabacks,
the small little tiles,i never ever use on any other tile

 

[ph121]

I have only just seen this, sorry for the late reply

The Mapegrip D2 will be ok, but will take alittle while to dry. If you are unsure, ring the Mapei Technical department, they have some great guys on the end of the phone. Powdered would of been better and I don't know why they sold you tubbed, if you wanted powdered.

We sell alot of the Mapegrip D2 with 250x400 tiles as alot of customers don't like to mix adhesive. I am guessing you brought the Capri range?

Keraflex Maxi will be fine to go onto the ply (No less than 22mm), but make sure the floor is sound. If there is any deflection, that will need to be fixed before you put the tiles down.

thanks Matt

can't return the D2 now anyway, so going to have to use for this job! yes its the capri range!

can i ask your opinion on tanking. decided to put up hadie backer boards around the shower area, then tank using ardex WPC kit (good price at the moment). will this work with the mapei D2, or does it need to be a cement based adhesive?

also for the floor have decided to put 25mm ply, but it will be in 2 pieces about 1.8m x 1.2m (for floor 3.6m x 1.2m). can i apply tiles direct to the ply? or do i need to overboard with something to cover the plywood join?

thanks for any help. much appreciated.

 

[Matt]

thanks Matt

can't return the D2 now anyway, so going to have to use for this job! yes its the capri range!

can i ask your opinion on tanking. decided to put up hadie backer boards around the shower area, then tank using ardex WPC kit (good price at the moment). will this work with the mapei D2, or does it need to be a cement based adhesive?

also for the floor have decided to put 25mm ply, but it will be in 2 pieces about 1.8m x 1.2m (for floor 3.6m x 1.2m). can i apply tiles direct to the ply? or do i need to overboard with something to cover the plywood join?

thanks for any help. much appreciated.

Why can't you return the D2? Are you using a tanking membrane or the paint on paste? If it is the membrane, I would personally use a cement based adhesive. As for the ply, make sure you stagger the joints, but yes you can go straight onto the ply with either Keraquick or Keraflex Maxi. I presume the floor is sound?

 

[ph121]

Why can't you return the D2? Are you using a tanking membrane or the paint on paste? If it is the membrane, I would personally use a cement based adhesive. As for the ply, make sure you stagger the joints, but yes you can go straight onto the ply with either Keraquick or Keraflex Maxi. I presume the floor is sound?

they said i can't return a consumable! the ardex kit is paint on.

for the floor there will only be one join. when you say stagger what exacatly does this mean? the old floorbords are being ripped out as not in good condition and replaced with the 25mm ply on to the joists....the joists are mainly 500mm apart. i've read on here that it needs to be screwed down at 200mm centres, does this mean i would have to lay down extra joists, or would noggins at right angles to the joists 200mm apart be ok?

cheers

 

[Toppa]

All good advice cheers